Products to make a junction box tidier...

[DNS1]

Hi chaps,

This may sound stupid, but as many of you know, I'm fairly new to the game.

I wired a few lights earlier from a loft space. Had a couple of rooms, each with 2 fixtures, supplied via 2 separate switches. Simple wiring of course, all in 1.5mm T+E from the installed lighting circuit.

Only problem is that I put everything through a single junction box and it looks a mess...

I used a standard 2g surface mount box with choc block and crimps to make the connections. Everything works and tests ok, but I'm just wondering what products I could have used to make the job look more professional. To be honest, at the moment it looks like spaghetti...

Can anyone recommend products that I can use to simply make my junction boxes look a little more "professional"!

 

[DurhamSparky]

Wago..............!!!

 

[Rappid]

Yes, Wagos and Wago box

WAGOBOX Junction Box

Or even better if you can screw a piece of DIN rail in a box and terminate the connections in there.

 

[Geoffsd]

I used a standard 2g surface mount box with choc block and crimps to make the connections.

Why did you need choc block and crimps?

Could you not have looped the wiring?
If not, then Ashley junction boxes.

 

[telectrix]

always better to make all terminations and joins in the lights and/or switches. saves crawling in the attic to fin a fault.

 

[Darkwood]

until your customer collars you at the end of the job and asks you to fit several B&Q fittings to replace the drops you put in :90:

 

[Guitarist]

Click on the sponsor "LineProducts" to the right of your screen. They do all the connectors, plus enclosures you might need to replace nasty old JB's.

 

[imago]

I use wago connectors (LINE do them too) and an IP rated adaptable box for jobs like that. It looks tidyer in a IP rated box IMHO, and fault finding shouldn't be an issue as long as you note on the paperwork what you put where.

It only takes a minute to put "First floor/bathroom/whatever lighting circuit junction box in loft, 2 metres to left of hatch." It can save you or some other poor soul an age of searching.

 

[DNS1]

I was planning to replace the choc blocks with Wagos (when they are delivered) but still think it will look a little spaghetti-like...

Does anyone have a picture of a similar install they could post?

Unfortunately the fittings are all recessed downlights without the loop-in/out terminals.

 

[Paul.M]

For the downlights you've installed I would have used a normal jb, Ashley box, Wago box (whichever you preffer) to loop in and out of at each fitting then a 20-30cm of heat flex from the jb to the fitting. Make sure you leave enough T+E in the loft so the next spark can pull through the hole to inspect and test if need to.

 

[DNS1]

Wasn't sure whether to do that as I thought JBs always had to be secured in place.

Probably a good use for those Line enclosures, would be the ideal size and shape to fit through a downlighter hole...

 

[Paul.M]

Good point about the normal jb's, dont use them for this, old habbits die hard and should not be telling others to do it that way, sorry.

 

[DNS1]

How come the Line products are ok to be left hanging free? Is it because they have strain relief?

 

[Paul.M]

How come the Line products are ok to be left hanging free? Is it because they have strain relief?

In a word, Yes.

No strain can be put on the termination therefore it does'nt become lose or disconnected.

 

[sparks1973]

always better to make all terminations and joins in the lights and/or switches. saves crawling in the attic to fin a fault.

accessable joints n all...i hate joint boxed lighting n stuff i do...

 

[Guitarist]

How come the Line products are ok to be left hanging free? Is it because they have strain relief?

Line boxes have entries which take cable-ties to secure the cables to the enclosure. This means that even if you pulled on a cable, it wouldn't move anything inside.