Which Oven To Buy With Current Wiring Set Up?

[dave_JL]

Hi guys,

Looking for some advice. We have this induction hob from IKEA SMAKLIG Induction hob - black - IKEA - https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/smaklig-induction-hob-black-20222830/ and a hotpoint single oven which has given up the ghost and needs replacing.

I'd like to buy a replacement oven I can install myself which fits with our current wiring set up. Which is as follows:

32amp cooker circuit



Wall mounted cooker control unit


Hardwired under counter top.



Lots of the single ovens available at Currys have 13A plugs fitted - we don't have a socket below the counter to accommodate these currently. Could I just buy one and cut the plug off? I've read both yes and no in various places online.

Thanks for any help - cheers - Dave.

 

[Midwest]

You should be okay. Looks like you have a 32A supply with 6mm cable?

Diversity applies to cooking appliances, which applying to your hob is about 17A. So adding a rated cooker with a 13A plug (haven't yet applied diversity to that yet), would be max of 30A. The socket outlet in your cooker switch adds 5A.

Let us know what oven you intend to purchase, and we can do some sums.

 

[dave_JL]

Thanks for your reply Midwest.

I was thinking this which has a 13a plug: BOSCH HHF113BR0B Electric Oven - Stainless Steel - https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/household-appliances/cooking/ovens/bosch-hhf113br0b-electric-oven-stainless-steel-10178804-pdt.html

Or this which requires hardwiring to a fused spur: BOSCH HBS534BS0B Electric Oven - Stainless Steel - https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/household-appliances/cooking/ovens/bosch-hbs534bs0b-electric-oven-stainless-steel-10175675-pdt.html

Would either be suitable to be wired into my current set up?

 

[Midwest]

I’ll reply tomorrow, off out. Think someone will reply before then. Off top of my head it will be fine.

 

[Midwest]

Applying diversity to each appliance (using 230V supply);
Existing hob = 16.7A (max 7400kW)
New oven 1 = 10.1A (max 2400kW)
New oven 2 = 10.9A (max 2990kW)
Cooker isolator socket 5A.
Therefore highest load is 32.5A, lowest load is 31.8A.

You'll need to verify your cooker supply cable etc (fixed wiring) is 6mm and installation method. If the cooker isolator was replaced with one without the socket, it would remove the 5A, and ensure its below the rating of the 32 MCB. Of course, thats up to you.

If you do get the one with the plug, you'll need to verify with Bosch, that cutting off the plug will not void the warranty; in my experience it does not with most manufactures.

You could use one of these to terminate the two appliance cables;

45 Amp Dual Appliance/Cooker Outlet Plate | Scolmore (PRW217)

I would employ an electrician, who verify your cable, my calculations and install the dual outlet plate and test & certify.

 

[dave_JL]

Thanks again for the reply.

Couple of questions - sorry if these are a bit newbie just trying to understand....

1) The 6mm cable you reference refers to the circuit not to the cable from the cooker to the outlet plate?

2) The calculations assume that both hob, cooker and socket are all being used to their max capacity?

3) Previously the two appliances were wired into that single outlet. Is the dual outlet required or does the single suffice?

Thanks - just trying to learn.

 

[telectrix]

the new oven can be wired directly into your existing outlet plate, ensuring that all connections are sound. this mat entail fitting ferrules to the oven flex after you cut the plug. refer to midwets post #5.

 

[dave_JL]

this mat entail fitting ferrules to the oven flex after you cut the plug

Bit confused by the above? Are you saying the cable from the outlet to the oven must be 6mm?

If I buy the one with the plug would I still need to change the cable? Does having a plug on the end mean a different cable is used?

 

[Midwest]

Thanks again for the reply.

Couple of questions - sorry if these are a bit newbie just trying to understand....

1) The 6mm cable you reference refers to the circuit not to the cable from the cooker to the outlet plate?

2) The calculations assume that both hob, cooker and socket are all being used to their max capacity?

3) Previously the two appliances were wired into that single outlet. Is the dual outlet required or does the single suffice?

Thanks - just trying to learn.

1) Yes, this is the final circuit cable from your consumer unit to cooker isolator/cooker outlet plate.

2) Diversity can be applied to cooking appliances, because either the selection control and or thermostats prevent the maximum load being achieved. Google diversity for cooking appliances, others can explain it better than me.

3) The dual outlet, ensures the different cables are better terminated, ensuring the strains of the wires are contacted by the terminal screw etc. Ferrules will ensure the flexible cable wires are not displaced under the terminal screw as @telectrix said.

The final circuit cable must be suitably sized; typically 6mm cable is used. This needs to be verified, for the load you intend to connect.

The one without the plug top, has a slightly higher load; the manufacturer is erring on the side of caution, as it may too much for plug to handle. The dual outlet plate is a better way of connecting these appliances.
[automerge]1569754253[/automerge]

1) Yes, this is the final circuit cable from your consumer unit to cooker isolator/cooker outlet plate.

2) Diversity can be applied to cooking appliances, because either the selection control and or thermostats prevent the maximum load being achieved. Google diversity for cooking appliances, others can explain it better than me.

3) The dual outlet, ensures the different cables are better terminated, ensuring the strains of the wires are contacted by the terminal screw etc. Ferrules will ensure the flexible cable wires are not displaced under the terminal screw as @telectrix said.

The final circuit cable must be suitably sized; typically 6mm cable is used. This needs to be verified, for the load you intend to connect.

The one without the plug top, has a slightly higher load; the manufacturer is erring on the side of caution, as it may too much for plug to handle regularly. The dual outlet plate is a better way of connecting these appliances.

 

[dave_JL]

OK I think I’m getting it?

Final question just because I’m curious now... if a 13amp plug is fitted does that mean the flew would be more standard, say 1.5mm, because the fuse would stop any overload?

Or would it just have 6mm with a plug attached?

 

[Midwest]

OK I think I’m getting it?

Final question just because I’m curious now... if a 13amp plug is fitted does that mean the flew would be more standard, say 1.5mm, because the fuse would stop any overload?

Or would it just have 6mm with a plug attached?

The manufacturers lead would be suitably sized for the load, it needs take.

 

[Derrick Winn]

Why not connect a 2.5mm cable in to connection unit then put 13amp socket on the end making sure that oven will push back we normally put in adjacent cupboard . Your oven must be protected by 13amp fuse

 

[Taylortwocities]

Why not connect a 2.5mm cable in to connection unit then put 13amp socket on the end making sure that oven will push back we normally put in adjacent cupboard . Your oven must be protected by 13amp fuse

Derek, the thread is 3 months old. I rather expect its been sorted by now.