Why are my LED ceiling lights continually failing?

[Peskiwabit]

I hope someone here can help me sort out why I keep blowing my ceiling lights because the company I bought the lamps from are no help what so ever, they just cost me more money!


About 4 months ago I converted my kitchen lighting from a single 100w 240v tungston bulb to four 3.3w 12v MR16 LED downlights for energy saving reasons. What a mistake it's turning out to be because 2 months ago 3 led's failed, starting with flicker until its death.

So, I contacted the company I bought them from and explained my problem, I also asked if they have had many of these led's returned faulty.

Keeping the telephone conversation short; They said that my driver was too powerful for their lamps (I didn't understand this then and still don't undurstand it now) and I would be better to use 2 of their own brand 12w drivers in place of the one 16w Aurora I was using. Also, they said they had 9 led's in total returned faulty and they sell a lot of these.


I ended up agreeing to purchase 2 of their drivers plus spare led's while I returned the faulty ones... (these ended up being lost in the post. :sigh: ).

Right, the new drivers were installed and running until a month later (yesterday) another led has failed. Today I called the company and was now told my cabling was too thick. Well after a while listening to him talking and getting me nowhere I hung up and started writing this post.


Details of what I used for the conversion:
1st conversion
Existing wiring from the ceiling rose terminated in a junction box and power to the driver from the existing light switch.
0.75mm 2 Core Flex, Current Capacity 6a from driver to led's.
4x 12v 3.3w MR16 led's connected in parallel (use constant voltage only).
1x Aurora 12v 16w DC Constant Voltage LED Driver (AU-LED16T).
Airspace above the kitchen is the roof space.

2nd conversion
Same as above except:
2x company branded 12v 12w constant voltage drivers (each driver powering 2 led's in parallel).


I hope this post isn't confusing, I'm not sure what to do other than go back to what works and apologise to the environment for trying.

 

[Adam W]

I'm not sure why anyone would want to fit an MR16 LED when you can get a GU10; it's just introducing a transformer to go wrong, not to mention those horrible little pin connectors.

 

[FAA Greenie]

i fit kosnic LEDS only!!!

and only fit manufactur assembled LED light fittings...... JCC etc...

Where you get them from DS? You got a link?

 

[DurhamSparky]

Bemco Electrical Wholesalers!! (durham branch)

 

[FAA Greenie]

Found em, I think that my first post is still true tho, you have to pay quite a lot for a good LED lamp. Often quite hard to explain to a cusomer that the 12 downlights you have just fitted to the kitchen will cost em near enough £200 for bulbs if they want to go green!!

 

[Peskiwabit]

Thank you all for contributing to this thread.

I decided that I'll give the GU10's a go, but not to choose too cheaply this time like I did with the MR16's.

Live and learn hey!

 

[rick.oshea]

About 4 months ago I converted my kitchen lighting from a single 100w 240v tungston bulb to four 3.3w 12v MR16 LED downlights for energy saving reasons. What a mistake it's turning out to be because 2 months ago 3 led's failed, starting with flicker until its death.

Keeping the telephone conversation short; They said that my driver was too powerful for their lamps (I didn't understand this then and still don't undurstand it now) Right, the new drivers were installed and running until a month later (yesterday) another led has failed. Today I called the company and was now told my cabling was too thick. Well after a while listening to him talking and getting me nowhere I hung up and started writing this post.

Not to sure where they were going with the wiring being too thick, (sounded as if the guy on the other end of the phone was the only thing a bit thick but I can throw a 'bit of light' on your original question for future reference........why they flickered and died.

Most of the modern tranny's (the electical type these days are not transformers as we know them but a box of electronics. Within little white boxes are thyrisors (an electronic swich) which have a specific hold-on current. If you use a standard electronic transformer (or one which has too high a rating), the current being drawn through led's is not enough to keep the 'electronic switch (thyristor)' closed.

What happens then is that the led switches on, the thyristor doesnt hold on because not enough current is flowing and it swiches off. The tranny sees it has dropped to 0V, so resets and switches it back on again..... and the cycle begins again, not enough current and off...... seen as a flicker because it is happening at 50 times a second or possibly more. This keeps happening until it fails.

It def sounds as if the first prob was above, but the flickering may have caused the premature ending of the other led the second time around, that's if you have the correct driver now in place??

If unsure, see if you can get hold of the 'manufacturer's tech support line' as they will be able to offer sound advice on driver v fittings.

If you go down the GU10 route, have a look at these. I fitted some of these off ebay - they do look different, I'll grant you that but once fitted, you don't notice them and they give off more of a dispersed light rather than the conventional direct spot. they take a couple of weeks to come over from our friends abroad, but they have ben really reliable - out of the 14 fitted, only lost one (just 6 led's on the lamp went out), 1 day after it went in, prob manufacturing fault, but they refunded me the cost.

They do a warm white (which I went for) or the clinical pure white.

GU10 Warm White 60 SMD LED Spot Light Bulb Lamp 230V | eBay


At £3 a pop, you can't go wrong....

Graham

 

[AIM]

I have had problems with LEDs overheating in enclosed fire rated down lights.

I fit these Ansell Lighting now and don't have a problem with hot LEDs.

I also fit the Kosnic GU10 LEDs. Only had one fail, that was within 30 seconds of fitting. Luckily had a spare in the van.

Has it been published yet that LEDs fitted in enclosed lamp holders are to have lamp-life reduced by 75%. I was told this after purchasing LEDs and enclosed lampholders from the Wholesaler. The original claim of 5 years guarantee will be honoured for previous purchases.

 

[mogga]

for anyone thinking of fitting LED Downlights and convincing client to put money out try HALERS web site they have a savings calculater its more use for large commercial as the figures for 100 lights running 24/7 over 5 years (Halers gaurentee is 7 years) are well impressive ant the figures for amount of lights , electricity prices, time of lighting being on are all variable

 

[rallyandy]

I tend to use a simple Toroidal transformer which will run quite a lot of LED lamps if required, i find that most new so called drivers still put too much of an inrush current and voltage to the lamps which shortens their life considerably, where as toroidal transformers start at 0V and only supply what is needed hope this helps.
please give me your thoughts on this guys as i have never had a problem this way with any LED lamp cheers Andy

 

[mogga]

thanks for your "input" mr NU welcome to the forum as you are a company it would be good if you could talk to DAN about possible sponsering ect or just for teckky input should giuys have problems
Please dont advertise till you speak to dan
Although your first post seems right on with advice