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did any of yous ever have days just after you’ve qualified when your doing a simple job but you encounter a slight wee problem and it just snow balls and you’re close to giving up after it’s done lol! Had one a those days
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Often!
Most jobs are never as simple and quick as you hope!
I still have them days sometimes, I've just learnt not to let it get the better of me. Best to rest and go back with a clear headwent home feeling absolutely deflated
I still have them days sometimes, I've just learnt not to let it get the better of me. Best to rest and go back with a clear head
Many. Sounds like you’ll learn something from it though. You tend to learn more and quicker when things don’t go to plan.
Tomorrow is another day, onwards and upwards!went home feeling absolutely deflated
Seems that no one else is going to ask, so I'll do it..
What was the slight wee problem that snowballed?
changing 2 outside lights over, couldn’t get one to come on. Couldn’t get one to work right, eventually got it. Then went to change a socket over, was an old socket and the back box snapped, couldn’t find a replacement one in van so had to use a metal back box with the plastic socket face. Ended up taking about 2 hours for the whole job
I'm going to guess the first issue was trivial, but you couldn't see the problem as you were looking for something more complex?
Common or switched live in wrong terminal and what appeared to be "on" position was actually off?
Anyone who says they've never had one is lying or has never done the job.did any of yous ever have days just after you’ve qualified when your doing a simple job but you encounter a slight wee problem and it just snow balls and you’re close to giving up after it’s done lol! Had one a those days
changing 2 outside lights over, couldn’t get one to come on. Couldn’t get one to work right, eventually got it. Then went to change a socket over, was an old socket and the back box snapped, couldn’t find a replacement one in van so had to use a metal back box with the plastic socket face. Ended up taking about 2 hours for the whole job
I had one bad day about 20 years ago and nothing before and nothing since has come remotely close to that one. We had to take a 1/2 in coax cable from the roof of a building down to the basement 18 floors below and then through the basement to the main computer suite but it could only be done after 6pm, all was going well I was feeding the cable at the roof and the lad working with me was routing it down the riser at the ground floor he radioed me to tell me there was a sprinkling of water coming down the riser and it was getting worse and worse it got something like 50 - 60,000 litres of water flowed before it was stopped, a pipe had sheared and ran at full bore for an hour or so
The end result was 5 passenger lifts were put out of action along with the basement post room and there was water damage to the first and ground floors didn't sleep too well that night wondering how to explain what happened. In the end we escaped the fall out as the company who were contracted to replace the rotten pipework had not replaced every pipe they should have and the blame was placed with them we dodged the bullet that day but anytime things are going wrong that job reminds me how wrong it can go. Had to go back to that job a few years later to do some mods and was asked not to do it again
So I flooded the AA's HQ and it was somebody else's fault but for a number of hours I was panicing it was my fault even after all these years there are a few people who remind me of it strange how they never remember all the other job's
Presumably you are going back to replace the metal box with a plastic one, or is it a metal surface box and the customer is happy with it?
As per @westward10 you need to take a step back and get a little perspective, that's hardly a day from hell in the big scheme of things.
Just wait until you accidentally set off a fire alarm 3 times in a week evacuating a busy building, have the local fire chief give you a rollicking by the end of it and pick up a few £k bill for the privilege.
my day from hell is about to start, old wylex CU with 3871's, back of bottom of corner cupboard in kitchen. all sockets on a 30A, random tripping of MCB. did a few basic tests yesterday without being able to access the CU. Nothing appeared abnormal. testing at a socket L-N and L-E both > 9999 ohms, but L-E and N-E both 0.02 Meg. obviously the IR readings are misleading with circuits still connected in CU. replaced MCB with a 60898 as the original was intermittent resetting even with power isolated, took 3 or 4 presses to get it to stay in,and it was a 2 minute job. cakll last night, still randomly tripping but holds when reset. back today to strip out the cupboard, remove shelf so can access and diss. then some sensible testing.. split ring and track it down. could be simply an intermittent short in a back box (I hope) or maybe rodent damage entailing floors up etc. btw. no RCD on installation. Zs readings all sensible ranging from 0.22 ohms to 0.45 ohms. let you know what i find later.
my day from hell is about to start, old wylex CU with 3871's, back of bottom of corner cupboard in kitchen. all sockets on a 30A, random tripping of MCB. did a few basic tests yesterday without being able to access the CU. Nothing appeared abnormal. testing at a socket L-N and L-E both > 9999 ohms, but L-E and N-E both 0.02 Meg. obviously the IR readings are misleading with circuits still connected in CU. replaced MCB with a 60898 as the original was intermittent resetting even with power isolated, took 3 or 4 presses to get it to stay in,and it was a 2 minute job. cakll last night, still randomly tripping but holds when reset. back today to strip out the cupboard, remove shelf so can access and diss. then some sensible testing.. split ring and track it down. could be simply an intermittent short in a back box (I hope) or maybe rodent damage entailing floors up etc. btw. no RCD on installation. Zs readings all sensible ranging from 0.22 ohms to 0.45 ohms. let you know what i find later.
Sounds like fun. Rodent damage sounds possible, but make sure to check every point before getting any floors up. I had an RCD constantly tripping on Friday that was fine by the time I got there in the evening. Tracked down to an external socket that had lost it's cover and had a small tree pressed against it - so the rain overnight and the wet tree had tripped it all morning, but had dried by the time I got there.....my day from hell is about to start, old wylex CU with 3871's, back of bottom of corner cupboard in kitchen. all sockets on a 30A, random tripping of MCB. did a few basic tests yesterday without being able to access the CU. Nothing appeared abnormal. testing at a socket L-N and L-E both > 9999 ohms, but L-E and N-E both 0.02 Meg. obviously the IR readings are misleading with circuits still connected in CU. replaced MCB with a 60898 as the original was intermittent resetting even with power isolated, took 3 or 4 presses to get it to stay in,and it was a 2 minute job. cakll last night, still randomly tripping but holds when reset. back today to strip out the cupboard, remove shelf so can access and diss. then some sensible testing.. split ring and track it down. could be simply an intermittent short in a back box (I hope) or maybe rodent damage entailing floors up etc. btw. no RCD on installation. Zs readings all sensible ranging from 0.22 ohms to 0.45 ohms. let you know what i find later.
Yes, interesting to hear once it is done and you are home with a beer or three.let you know what i find later.
update. worse than anyone can think. opened up old fuseboars (3036, updated with 3871s). 4 x 2.5 T/E enter from rear in a bunch, sheathing not in box, so no way of telling which L,N,E are same cable. pulled lives out of MCB. no r1. pulled assumed N's ..no rN. left r2 for now as no way of telling which is which. both legs of L's read >999K to E, but both read 0.01meg on IR. opened a couple of sockets to split circuit.
update. worse than anyone can think. opened up old fuseboars (3036, updated with 3871s). 4 x 2.5 T/E enter from rear in a bunch, sheathing not in box, so no way of telling which L,N,E are same cable. pulled lives out of MCB. no r1. pulled assumed N's ..no rN. left r2 for now as no way of telling which is which. both legs of L's read >999K to E, but both read 0.01meg on IR. opened a couple of sockets to split circuit. half the sockets are spurs with hidden JBs under bedroom floors. got 1 leg reads OK, so connects up and 4 sockets working. 5 dead. at this time also pugged in socket tester 3 greens.. OK. then asks the old dear if she's sure nobody been nailing or screwing floorboards ( cables are notched in joists)." my son secured a loose board in my bedroom a few weeks ago". so board up. screw straight through cable. joist charred, adjacent cables blackened. OK, so cut and stripped damaged cable. back at CU, fault clear. joined cable , fault back. split cable again 1 leg good. 1 bad, so leaving the bad leg dissed at the join and at CU, powered up "good" leg. several socket appear to be working, but socket tester shows L-E reversal. also 1 socket only works if the adjacent 15A MCB is on. then the 30A MCB trips. after 5 hours i finally admit defeat and advise a socket rewire and a new CU in an accessible position. obviously some cross connections meaning beds out of house, carpets and floors up. nightmare. thoughs being if this amount of disruption is needed, then rewiring is only option.
1. CU under fixed shelf
2. shorted cablecut and stripped
3. connected in hope.
in 2 and 2, you can see the black scorch marks on the joist.
Or someone has managed to swap L & N in a hidden junction box?what i can't get my head round is the L-E reverse shown on 2 socket testers a chinese import and a fluke, when clearly the L is to L. N is to N and E is to E. the only thing i can think of is that due to the screw in cable, the 1.0mm cpc has been compromised due to repeated fault currents, gone O/C somewhere down the line and confusing the socket testers.
That joint is a nice fix tel ??in pic 1. the shelf below the DB is the bottom of the base unit, 6" above floor. above the DB by 6" is the non-removeable shelf, so no room to work. half in, half out the cupboard, and to make it worse, having to use a terminal driver in left hand, so hand blocking off the light from rechargeable work LED light.
them connectors are the dog's danglies. quick connect even if hardly any slack, cover with heatshrink. voila, MF joint.
checked at a socket. first, voltstick.. lights up on red (L) no reaction on N or E. then the fluke . 246V L-N. 246V L-E. 40V N-E. thinking cpc is floating due to damage caused by the screw in the cable. as it's only a 1.0mm cpc. however, the leg that showed 0.01 meg L-E was dissed.Or someone has managed to swap L & N in a hidden junction box?
Did you do any other check to see if it was really reversed?
As you say, if and open CPC is floating close to L the socket tester might just think that N is the live one as the "odd one out".
did any of yous ever have days just after you’ve qualified when your doing a simple job but you encounter a slight wee problem and it just snow balls and you’re close to giving up after it’s done lol! Had one a those days
what i can't get my head round is the L-E reverse shown on 2 socket testers a chinese import and a fluke, when clearly the L is to L. N is to N and E is to E. the only thing i can think of is that due to the screw in cable, the 1.0mm cpc has been compromised due to repeated fault currents, gone O/C somewhere down the line and confusing the socket testers.
Did you test voltage at the connections at sockets that flummoxed the plug in tester?checked at a socket. first, voltstick.. lights up on red (L) no reaction on N or E. then the fluke . 246V L-N. 246V L-E. 40V N-E. thinking cpc is floating due to damage caused by the screw in the cable. as it's only a 1.0mm cpc. however, the leg that showed 0.01 meg L-E was dissed.
think it may be something similar, yet, before I'd found the nail in cable i had several sockets powered off the "good" leg, showing correct polarity. (3 greens on the fluke).Did you test voltage at the connections at sockets that flummoxed the plug in tester?
I've had before plug in tester showing L-E reversal...what happened was the fault blew apart the cpc, which in turn welded itself onto the L from the socket. So at socket L-N 230v, N-E 230v, L-E 0v.
The downside of MCB's and the like, folk will flick them back on until they stay on, damaging god knows what in doing so.
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