Discuss Help with Smart Switch in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi all!

So I’ve recently moved and in my old place I installed smart switches as the wiring was pretty simple. However this new house was a flip and they remodeled the kitchen and redid all the lights and switches and made the wiring a little complicated for my liking. If it weren’t for the COVID lock down I’d simply hire an electrician to get in here and fix this up but in lieu of that I’m here asking for your advice.

see the pictures attached:

I’ve tried installing the switch two ways and neither provided power to the switch but both ways allowed power to the rest of the house and other circuits (except for the lights that the switch controls obviously)

the first picture is the old analog light. I don’t quite understand why it has two hot lines (black) on either side and a secondary hot (red). My old switches just had one black and one red, so it was easy.

as you can hopefully see there are two pieces of Romex in the switch box which I’m assuming is because this is all happening in the middle of one or two circuits. I’m wondering if I am possibly using the wrong neutral wire considering I’ve never been able to get power to the smart switch itself ie it never powers on its WiFi light.

It should be noted that these ceiling lights are controlled by two switches, one inside the kitchen, and another just outside the kitchen in the hallway. The switch in the kitchen is your average switch, but the one in the hallway has a blue signal light that tells you the status of the circuit because the switch positions can be inverted when you use either switch in a different succession (sorry I don’t know the name of this switch setup I’m sure it has a name)

Also, the switch in the hallway has a dimmer on it but the switch in the kitchen doesn’t. This is why I was trying to replace the one in the kitchen because my smart switch doesn’t have a dimmer.

any thoughts!?
 

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does your smart switch need a neutral connection?
 
That looks three-way switched in other words controlled by two separate switches. The black on the black screw of the old switch is hot the other black and red are travelers to the other switch.
 
That looks three-way switched in other words controlled by two separate switches. The black on the black screw of the old switch is hot the other black and red are travelers to the other switch.

so how come when I attach either of my hot lines to it, it doesn’t complete the circuit? Maybe it is but my switch doesn’t have power because of the wrong neutral? Is there a way to tell which neutral I should use?
 
Hi all!

So I’ve recently moved and in my old place I installed smart switches as the wiring was pretty simple. However this new house was a flip and they remodeled the kitchen and redid all the lights and switches and made the wiring a little complicated for my liking. If it weren’t for the COVID lock down I’d simply hire an electrician to get in here and fix this up but in lieu of that I’m here asking for your advice.

see the pictures attached:

I’ve tried installing the switch two ways and neither provided power to the switch but both ways allowed power to the rest of the house and other circuits (except for the lights that the switch controls obviously)

the first picture is the old analog light. I don’t quite understand why it has two hot lines (black) on either side and a secondary hot (red). My old switches just had one black and one red, so it was easy.

as you can hopefully see there are two pieces of Romex in the switch box which I’m assuming is because this is all happening in the middle of one or two circuits. I’m wondering if I am possibly using the wrong neutral wire considering I’ve never been able to get power to the smart switch itself ie it never powers on its WiFi light.

It should be noted that these ceiling lights are controlled by two switches, one inside the kitchen, and another just outside the kitchen in the hallway. The switch in the kitchen is your average switch, but the one in the hallway has a blue signal light that tells you the status of the circuit because the switch positions can be inverted when you use either switch in a different succession (sorry I don’t know the name of this switch setup I’m sure it has a name)

Also, the switch in the hallway has a dimmer on it but the switch in the kitchen doesn’t. This is why I was trying to replace the one in the kitchen because my smart switch doesn’t have a dimmer.

any thoughts!?
Optary welcome to the forum and you need to go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and buy you a non contact hot stick, there not but about $15.00 then go home and find the hot wire feeding the switches and that should get you started. Once you have identified the live wire mark it then turn off the power before you proceed.
 
Optary welcome to the forum and you need to go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and buy you a non contact hot stick, there not but about $15.00 then go home and find the hot wire feeding the switches and that should get you started. Once you have identified the live wire mark it then turn off the power before you proceed.

So if identify the hot wire that supplies the old switch, I still need to connect a secondary hot wire correct? That’s what my smart switch instructions says it needs. One black should go to hot and the other black to a secondary hot. In my old place this meant connecting one black to the only black in the wall box, and the other black to the only red in the wall box.

Now this also leaves the question of what do I do about this other switch in the hallway with the dimmer? I’d like that to still work too.
 
So if identify the hot wire that supplies the old switch, I still need to connect a secondary hot wire correct? That’s what my smart switch instructions says it needs. One black should go to hot and the other black to a secondary hot. In my old place this meant connecting one black to the only black in the wall box, and the other black to the only red in the wall box.

Now this also leaves the question of what do I do about this other switch in the hallway with the dimmer? I’d like that to still work
Just put a jumper between the screw for your hot wire to your secondary hot. The dimmer must be supplying the hot for the hallway light which should happen in you switch box
So if identify the hot wire that supplies the old switch, I still need to connect a secondary hot wire correct? That’s what my smart switch instructions says it needs. One black should go to hot and the other black to a secondary hot. In my old place this meant connecting one black to the only black in the wall box, and the other black to the only red in the wall box.

Now this also leaves the question of what do I do about this other switch in the hallway with the dimmer? I’d like that to still work too.
Put a jumper wire from the hot screw to the secondary screw. Catch me up how many wires and what color
[automerge]1586973562[/automerge]
Just put a jumper between the screw for your hot wire to your secondary hot. The dimmer must be supplying the hot for the hallway light which should happen in you switch box
Put a jumper wire from the hot screw to the secondary screw. Catch me up how many wires and what color

I can’t read the terminals but tie the blacks together and pigtail a black to the new switch and it appears that the red is possibly hooks to the other black wire on the switch
 
Last edited:
Just put a jumper between the screw for your hot wire to your secondary hot. The dimmer must be supplying the hot for the hallway light which should happen in you switch box
Put a jumper wire from the hot screw to the secondary screw. Catch me up how many wires and what color

So, if you see the photos I attached, you should see all the cables coming from the wall box and all the wires coming from my new smart switch. I need to find a combo to attach all of them. The smart switch needs two hot, one neutral, one ground. And in the wall box I have two black, one red, one white, one copper.

I’m not following when you say “attach a jumper to the screws” as I’m removing the old switch from this equation completely.
 
Just put a jumper between the screw for your hot wire to your secondary hot. The dimmer must be supplying the hot for the hallway light which should happen in you switch box
Put a jumper wire from the hot screw to the secondary screw. Catch me up how many wires and what color
[automerge]1586973562[/automerge]


I can’t read the terminals but tie the blacks together and pigtail a black to the new switch and it appears that the red is possibly hooks to the other black wire on the switch

Does this drawing help?
 

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You need to do some alterations to the other switch to remove the three way switching. This is beyond your capability and would recommend you reinstate the original switch.
 

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