Discuss Kitchen lights and security light not turning on. in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

wams

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Hi all,
My Uncle's kitchen lights are not working nor are the downlights and also the outside security lights.

Firstly: The kitchen ceiling lights are on a bar, 8 halogen lights in total, the bar points in 3 different directions, some halogen lights stopped working on 1 bar point, so I replaced the lamps/bulbs still not working, so i moved the light fittings from bar point 1 to bar point 2 & 3, now all the lights have failed. I have since move the fittings back to there original positions and still no lights. I have looked at the switch and the conductors are securely fastened. The bar light itself must be at least 11 year old and over time grease and dirt has accumulated.

Secondly: The downlights under kitchen wall units have stopped working, they are connected to a 13 Amp Fused Spur, the spur is switched on but the neon light is not alight. So I have checked the fuse itself and noticed the fuse is a 3amp, so I have correctly fitted a 13amp fuse and the neon light lit up, the lights are narrow tubes and they too have been replaced but still the downlights are not working. Again grease and dirt have accumulated on the fittings.

Thirdly: The outside security light stopped working, I replaced the lamp but no light. Now the light is fitted near the back bedroom (1st floor) and is powered by a switch in the cupboard in the bedroom, I have looked at the switch and conductors fastened securely.

NB What I do know is there are 2 ceiling light fittings in the kitchen, each fitting has its own switch, 1 fitting and its switch is working fine the other is not as outlined above.

The consumer unit is old and uses the old style fuses, each fuse has been marked in pen or pencil on the casing with a letter but the letters do not correspond with any circuits (I.E uppstairs lights, downstairs lights, sockets and so on). A 5amp fuse has blown at some point in time and has been refused using a thin wire of some kind. All the other fuses have no evidence of blowing, or traces of soot from burning.

I would appreciate any suggestions on how to remedy the 3 problems I have. (I have added the NB for additional information if needed).

Many thanks

WAMS
 
I finished the 3 year City & Guilds Technical Certificate in Electrotechnical Technology (2330) last year and my current job pays very little I cant afford any of the essential tools needed. I would have used a test instrument if I had one. As I didn't I posted this thread to find a way around it without the use of test instruments

In order for me to be qualified I need the following:



  • From January 2011 you will need to achieve one of the new NVQ Diplomas from City and Guilds (2357).
    These are the NVQ Level 3 Diploma in Electrotechnical Services (Electrical Maintenance) or NVQ Level 3 Diploma in Installing Electrotechnical Systems and Equipment (Buildings and Structures).
Or

  • If you are already part-way through the City & Guilds Technical Certificate in Electrotechnical Technology (2330) don`t worry, you will be able to finish it and it will stillbe valid. In this case however you will also need to gain the NVQ level 3 in Electrotechnical Services (2356) in order to be qualified as an electrician. You can gain this qualification through apprenticeship or at latter stage by completing it at your workplace.

    In order to be fully qualified you will also need:
  • 17th Edition of the Wiring Regulations BS 7671:2008 (Requirements of Electrical Installations - City & Guilds 2382-10 Level 3).
    The IEE Wiring Regulations are the British standard to which all commercial, domestic and industrial electrical installation works must comply. You can gain this qualification through your local college or any other course provider. Usually it is a short, four-five day course with an online assessment at the end of the course. Feel free to read through our Guide for the 17th edition of the Wiring Regulations.
  • City & Guilds Level 3 Certificate in Inspection, Testing and Certification of Electrical Installations (2391-10).
    In order to work on your own you will need to inspect, test and sign off your work. This qualification allows you to do just that. It is also a proof that you are a competent installer or tester, and are up to date with the national requirements for the industry (BS7671).
 
WAMS,
You really need to get a spark in as 'ecclescake' has suggested. Without test lamps or test equipment you will struggle.

Cheers,
Lofty
 
I wont be able to remove the 13A fuse now for a few days. What are the dangers if I left the spur in for that long of a period?


Tell your uncle not to switch in the kitchen lights (that don't work anyway).

Wams, this is where your 2330 training kicks in. Why is a fuse there? A. To protect the circuit cable... Q. How many Amps can the lighting circuit take after the FCU? A. Not 13A.

Upgrading the Amps on a fuse because the old fuse keeps on tripping tells you that there is a fault and needs investigating with test equipment. I'm not having a go at you mate but please make sure all electrics are safe when you leave and please get someone in to test it and find the fault/s. Post up your location and someone may be close to you to sort this out and you could watch and learn a bit more. That's how a lot of us has learnt in the past.
 
To all that have helped:

Paranoia kicked in last night so I put in a half day at work today and went straight round to my Uncle's and replaced the 13A fuse with a 3A fuse.

My location is Low Fell, Gateshead, Tyne & Wear.
 
but if those lights are not working anyway, why not leave the fuse out.
 

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