need help wiring a floodlight(old wiring)

[baza890]

Hi, this floodlight had been up for a very long time, but it stopped working sometime ago just got around to trying to fix it, so i confirmed there is power coming to the flood light circuit and the switch.

from when I cut off the wiring it seemed like the yellow wire wasn't connected in there(probably doesn't need to be?) the earth wire seemed to be alittle black maybe burnt from water damage? but i stripped them back and do i just reput them back in to the previous positions and just leave the yellow single wire cut back into the sheathing pictures below:

Gyazo

gyazo.com

Gyazo

gyazo.com

 

[littlespark]

The original sensor lights like this would have a permanant feed to power the sensor (red) and a switched feed (yellow) that could override the sensor and just bring the light on. Blue of course, is the neutral.
A new light fitting may not need the extra feed, and thats possibly why the yellow was unused. It should be terminated into a connector, rather than just cut off. It may even be disconnected at the other end.

The grey cable there shouldnt really be exposed to sunlight. The UV can degrade the plastic. Better puttingit, rear entry, into a joint box, and a flex into the light.
Also the flex should come through a compression gland to ensure the IP rating.
The bare earth cable should have green/yellow sleeving over it.

 

[baza890]

The original sensor lights like this would have a permanant feed to power the sensor (red) and a switched feed (yellow) that could override the sensor and just bring the light on. Blue of course, is the neutral.
A new light fitting may not need the extra feed, and thats possibly why the yellow was unused. It should be terminated into a connector, rather than just cut off. It may even be disconnected at the other end.

The grey cable there shouldnt really be exposed to sunlight. The UV can degrade the plastic. Better puttingit, rear entry, into a joint box, and a flex into the light.
Also the flex should come through a compression gland to ensure the IP rating.
The bare earth cable should have green/yellow sleeving over it.

thank you for the reply, yep will sleeve the earth cable. The light seems to be operated by a single gang switch inside and the flex part is already wired it seems just cant see in the picture. I'll give it a crack in a while and see how it goes.

 

[mainline]

thank you for the reply, yep will sleeve the earth cable. The light seems to be operated by a single gang switch inside and the flex part is already wired it seems just cant see in the picture. I'll give it a crack in a while and see how it goes.

The single pole light switch would be better to be a Double pole one so that the outside light can be properly isolated.

 

[baza890]

The original sensor lights like this would have a permanant feed to power the sensor (red) and a switched feed (yellow) that could override the sensor and just bring the light on. Blue of course, is the neutral.
A new light fitting may not need the extra feed, and thats possibly why the yellow was unused. It should be terminated into a connector, rather than just cut off. It may even be disconnected at the other end.

The grey cable there shouldnt really be exposed to sunlight. The UV can degrade the plastic. Better puttingit, rear entry, into a joint box, and a flex into the light.
Also the flex should come through a compression gland to ensure the IP rating.
The bare earth cable should have green/yellow sleeving over it.

The single pole light switch would be better to be a Double pole one so that the outside light can be properly isolated.

I wired it back up, seems like the light sensor isn't working, guess it's time for a new one because it's been here for like 20 years + unless the yellow wire has something to do with it? do i need to put that in somewhere? when i opened the box up the wire wasn't going into the junction box it was just inside the sheathing