Neff Induction Hob Installation Advice

[Alex Woodall]

Hi

New to the forum and wondered if anyone would be able to help re installing a Neff induction hob to replace an old Electrolux ceramic hob.

The existing hob is wired in through an isolator socket behind the worktops and is on its own ring with a 32A ECB in the fuse board. The current cable is 3 core and, though I can’t confirm the cable loading, is considerably more ‘chunky’ than the 5 core cable supplied with the new hob.

The wiring diagrams in the neff brochure are less than helpful as they appear to contradict each other for single phase wiring!
https://Upload the image directly to the thread.com/snZMKsd
https://Upload the image directly to the thread.com/EE4150r

The first diagram shows, even for a single phase supply Bu, Gy, Bn and Bk still going to different terminals whilst the second diagram shows Bn/Bk and Bu/Gy crimped together to form a 3 core setup.

This poses 2 questions:

1) Can I use the existing 3 core cable, to save having to get a spark out to change the isolator cable and potentially socket - I’m in London so this is never cheap!

2) If I can use the existing cable can I connect the existing earth to the earth terminal (straightforward), the existing neutral to either terminal 5 or 4 and then the existing live to 2 or 3 (less straightforward)?

As I said the diagrams appear less than helpful here!

Any assistance anyone can give would be hugely appreciated.

Many Thanks

Alex

 

[Andy78]

You'd have to weigh up what's more expensive, an electrician for half an hour, a new neff hob to replace a blown up one, or possibly the bill for repairs after a house fire.

 

[littlespark]

Sorry I can’t see the diagrams.

It’s common for new hob to come with a 5 or even 6 core cable.
I think there was another thread about it just last week??
If the hob comes with a fitted cable, use it!
Normally brown and black together on L, 2x blues together as N and g/y as earth... but that’s a guess as I can’t see the diagrams.

Connecting up is easy. It’s getting the hob to fit in the hole in the worktop that takes a little time.

 

[Alex Woodall]

Thanks - Diagrams attached

Cable isn't connected to the hob unfortunately, hence hoping to be able to us the existing cable wired into the isolator, so as not have to mess with the isolator socket.

I'd love to get someone out to do this but in this part of the world I would likely spend 1/2 day on the phone to people trying to persuade them to come out to do a small job like this...

 

[littlespark]

It’s the middle diagrams that you look at. We don’t have 415v in domestic, so you can ignore anything that mention it.
So brown and grey together as Live, black and blue together as Neutral. Green/ yellow to earth.

If you can use the supplied cable, it will be sized for the hobs current rating.
If your existing hob used grey twin and earth, it’s not really suitable.

 

[Alex Woodall]

Cool - but which terminals on the hob do I wire the combined L and N cables into?

Can I use either L terminal (2 or 3) and either Neutral terminal (4 or 5)?

 

[buzzlightyear]

I think the op should get I a spark ,to sort it out. cause it might be a expensive if he cocks that up .

 

[buzzlightyear]

Cool - but which terminals on the hob do I wire the combined L and N cables into?

none ,get a spark in .

 

[buzzlightyear]

Cool - but which terminals on the hob do I wire the combined L and N cables into?

Can I use either L terminal (2 or 3) and either Neutral terminal (4 or 5)?

there is no step by step guide for you ,think about your insurance first .

 

[littlespark]

You can use either N 4 or 5 as long as there is a copper link between the two, which I can see on the diagram.
There doesn't appear to be a link between 2 and 3, so you need a core to each.

This isn't a step by step guide... I am repeating what is written in the installation manual. Some people just need a translation.

 

[buzzlightyear]

This isn't a step by step guide... I am repeating what is written in the installation manual. Some people just need a translation.

you or the op .

 

[Alex Woodall]

Oh wow, just realised how dense I've actually been - shouldn't try and understand wiring diagrams after a long day on the road!

Diagram 2 is the wiring setup to connect to the isolator socket!!!

This now seems much, much easier...

Thanks for all the help guys

 

[ipf]

I think the op should get I a spark ,to sort it out.

Might end up with a naff Neff if he doesn't.

 

[Alex Woodall]

Might end up with a naff Neff if he doesn't.

If I could find a reliable one in my part of the world willing to take on new customers and do a job this small I would...

 

[Sintra]

I think the op should get I a spark ,to sort it out. cause it might be a expensive if he cocks that up .

none ,get a spark in .

there is no step by step guide for you ,think about your insurance first .

Typical negativity that I’m getting fed up with. If you haven’t got anything constructive to say then don’t bother replying and move on to another thread.

 

[Midwest]

The copper ‘links’ are not always secured in the terminals. They’re sometimes stored together to one side of the terminal box.

 

[Grant webber]

[QUOTE="littlespark, post:
So brown and grey together as Live, black and blue together as Neutral. Green/ yellow to earth.

I'm sure the diagram says brown and black together for live

 

[littlespark]

Eek! So it does.
Looks like I can’t read a diagram either.

 

[telectrix]

the top middle pic shows connections to supply cable, Bkack and Brown is L. Grey and Blue is N. in the cooker, Brown to term. 2.Black to 3. Blue & Grey to 4and 5 (linked.then just earth (cpc) to the earth terminal. make sure all connections are tight and no bare copper outside the terminals. obviously, isolate supply at CU before starting

 

[Alex Woodall]

the top middle pic shows connections to supply cable, Bkack and Brown is L. Grey and Blue is N. in the cooker, Brown to term. 2.Black to 3. Blue & Grey to 4and 5 (linked.then just earth (cpc) to the earth terminal. make sure all connections are tight and no bare copper outside the terminals. obviously, isolate supply at CU before starting

Perfect and thanks - it seems pretty straightforward now I understand the diagrams...

Even bought myself a crimping tool set to make a neat job of attaching to the supply!