Smoke / Heat Alarms, Seeking Recommendations

[Pegasus]

I am an electrical labourer currently doing my own research on Alarms to self-educate as much as I can.
I would like to state the general rules I have learnt so far and would like to know if there's anything else I should be aware,

Smoke Alarms, 2 types - Ionisation and Optical (Optical is mostly used?)
Heat Alarms - is the rule to use only Heat Alarms in Kitchen / Garage?

Both of those should be 30cm away from any wall corners and light fittings to allow air cirulation.

In terms of interliking the alarms, let's assume alarms have already been fitted and you're called out to wire an additional mains & battery powered alarm, are you able to use any alarm that is closeby such that you should be branching or do alarms always need to be connected in series and as such you'd need to find the last and wire a cable from there?

Anyone used sticky pads to attach alarms instead of screwing them in?
Anything else I missed which you would be thinking about when approaching the installation of Smoke/Heat Alarms?

 

[littlespark]

Optical is mostly used as they’re more reliable, although cost a little more. Most are supplied as optical nowadays.

Heat detector for use where “smoke” could set off false alarms, such as cooking, working in a garage or even an open coal fire.
They take a little longer to operate than smoke, as it needs to be a pretty big flame to reach the temperature needed.

Some detectors can be multi sensor, so smoke and heat in the same unit.

For wired interlink, you just branch off anywhere… at any detector… or even on the length of cable between detectors.
Of course, isolate the power as it will be 230v running through.
Manufacturers such as Aico have 10 year long life detectors that don’t require mains power, and link using a radio frequency. You just need to add a radio module to one of the existing mains powered detectors.

You can’t mix and match manufacturers. If it’s Aico for example already, you can’t then add a Kidde on the circuit. The interlinks may work differently, even if they’re all powered from the same mains circuit.

 

[Pegasus]

Optical is mostly used as they’re more reliable, although cost a little more. Most are supplied as optical nowadays.

Heat detector for use where “smoke” could set off false alarms, such as cooking, working in a garage or even an open coal fire.
They take a little longer to operate than smoke, as it needs to be a pretty big flame to reach the temperature needed.

Some detectors can be multi sensor, so smoke and heat in the same unit.

For wired interlink, you just branch off anywhere… at any detector… or even on the length of cable between detectors.
Of course, isolate the power as it will be 230v running through.
Manufacturers such as Aico have 10 year long life detectors that don’t require mains power, and link using a radio frequency. You just need to add a radio module to one of the existing mains powered detectors.

You can’t mix and match manufacturers. If it’s Aico for example already, you can’t then add a Kidde on the circuit. The interlinks may work differently, even if they’re all powered from the same mains circuit.

Thanks, very helpful! I was not aware that you cannot mix manufacturers and AICO seems to be the go to brand for the alarms for most electricians, right?

What do you tend to install in the kitchen, mostly Heat Alarms or also multi-sensor?
Am I correct that to the first alarm, you use a 1mm T&E and from there on you use a 1mm 3Core+E to the next alarm? Protected by a 6A MCB?

I checked out the radio-powered Alarms but they seem to be quite expensive!

 

[pirate]

The Aico radio-linked alarms are relatively expensive, yes. Never had a call-back yet. Also, compared with the cost of raggling (chasing) walls/ceilings, the time and mess involved, plus replastering and making good with paint etc, they are extremely cost effective, with no disruption to decor. Cost? Well I say they are cheaper than hardwired because of the above, and also what price life and property? I'm in Scotland, so only working to the regs there. I believe some areas still insist on hardwired on new-builds?
Me, I'd rather be in and out in an hour with a few quid in hand than spend a couple of days hardwiring and making a mess. To quote for that will lose me the job, but to quote for both clearly shows the client the advantage of the more expensive radio-linked units. Also, I don't like lifting floors and chasing and being on my knees, and possibly encountering asbestos in Artex ceilings etc. A quick, clean job, fairly remunerated and all's good for me and the client.

 

[LukeD]

I did 7 Aico radio linked units yesterday >never ever get issues and I dont think they are that expensive at all as The Somali quoted above .Its a win win for client and yourself

 

[Pegasus]

The Aico radio-linked alarms are relatively expensive, yes. Never had a call-back yet. Also, compared with the cost of raggling (chasing) walls/ceilings, the time and mess involved, plus replastering and making good with paint etc, they are extremely cost effective, with no disruption to decor. Cost? Well I say they are cheaper than hardwired because of the above, and also what price life and property? I'm in Scotland, so only working to the regs there. I believe some areas still insist on hardwired on new-builds?
Me, I'd rather be in and out in an hour with a few quid in hand than spend a couple of days hardwiring and making a mess. To quote for that will lose me the job, but to quote for both clearly shows the client the advantage of the more expensive radio-linked units. Also, I don't like lifting floors and chasing and being on my knees, and possibly encountering asbestos in Artex ceilings etc. A quick, clean job, fairly remunerated and all's good for me and the client.

You make good points!

 

[Pegasus]

I did 7 Aico radio linked units yesterday >never ever get issues and I dont think they are that expensive at all as The Somali quoted above .Its a win win for client and yourself

Do you just connect them nearest to the light if mains, or are they mainly battery powered?

 

[pirate]

Somali?

Fully battery powered...but you can fit a hybrid, with say the hall one being powered from the mains lighting circuit but which also has the 10 year battery installed, plus the radio-module. This is a system I used before the new Scottish regs arrived. Frankly, just go with fully battery powered.

 

[Pegasus]

Somali?

Fully battery powered...but you can fit a hybrid, with say the hall one being powered from the mains lighting circuit but which also has the 10 year battery installed, plus the radio-module. This is a system I used before the new Scottish regs arrived. Frankly, just go with fully battery powered.

when two pirates compete, one being scottish, the other being somali, I know for sure who will win the bidding wars for the alarms.

 

[Lister1987]

Aico offer free installer training, it covers 5839-6 and thier products. Thry also have a smartphone app, search Aico Handybook

 

[pirate]

and you get a hard copy of the book and a van sticker!

 

[Lister1987]

and you get a hard copy of the book and a van sticker!

Don't forget the pen with a tiny flathead at yhr other end to help get the alarms off bases

 

[Pegasus]

Don't forget the pen with a tiny flathead at yhr other end to help get the alarms off bases

hahah now that's a pen worth having, I have ordered their product range brochure and anything else I can get for free from their website

 

[nicebutdim]

and you get a hard copy of the book and a van sticker!

I didn't get a van sticker, but they did give me a travel mug.

 

[pirate]

Oh yes, the pen! I got that too...but not the mug.

No mug...but smug, because I now have some spare smokes and heats which finally arrived last week!

 

[Vortigern]

Alarms usually have an intumescent fire seal where it attaches to the ceiling. Sticky pads onto that material may not be a good fix so personally I would avoid sticky pads. As to learing about fire alarms there is a massive amount of information out there on design etc. There are different categories as well, you could profit from learning about them. This in turn means getting access to the BS standards governing same. That is a very expensive route to learning given that come out at about £200 each. The other way to approach it is to get the older books like BS5839 1 and 6 looking at them then researching updates to those regulations. However, it will give you a very good idea of how to place fire alarms etc. There are situations where you get a beam running down the middle of the ceiling projecting into the room. What do you do in that situation? You sometimes get the same in domestic on the stairs, so the usual landing smoke alarm at the top of the stairs may not work. You have to have BS5839 1 and 6 as they inter-reference each other. If you are a member of NAPIT you can buy access to the standards for £90 per year.
Often the spec. for fire alarms are influenced by the designer/architect or the local building control who will specify the standard required in give premises. It may be worth finding out what your local BC has to say about the matter.