Discuss Hard wired smokes with CU change? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hopefully an easy one without much debate but I've just had spoke to someone who has had an electrician go to his rental property and say it needs a new CU which I'd agree, all sockets to be replaced as they don't have switches which I would personally but didn't think this was actually a requirement? But also a new circuit putting in for hard wired smoke alarms... now although I would recommend hard wired smoke alarms they aren't required following a CU upgrade are they? Re wires yes... new installations yes... id probably even push it if I was adding 1 or 2 circuits in but they have the required battery smoke alarms that the legislation for rental properties dictates that they must now have in place.

Anyone know these rules for sure? I was very confident in my response yesterday but the more I think about it the more I am doubting what I said and don't want to give him a bum steer

Thanks
 
In England,
sockets do not need to be switched
hard wired smokes in your case would be recommended but not mandatory

scotland has different rules about fire detection though.
 
Easiest form of isolation is unplugging. Not handy if the socket is down behind a washing machine. Hence the need/want off an solar ion switch above worktop.

The age of unswitched sockets would be factor in whether they need changed or not, although I know you can buy unswitched sockets new.
 
It wasn‘t your autocorrect, I expect it was one of the mods just playing with you!!!
 
Easiest form of isolation is unplugging. Not handy if the socket is down behind a washing machine. Hence the need/want off an solar ion switch above worktop.

The age of unswitched sockets would be factor in whether they need changed or not, although I know you can buy unswitched sockets new.

You can use the circuit breaker as an isolation switch so unless the consumer unit is not relatively easily accessible then even isolation switches above the worktop are not specifically required although it can be better to have them. (Personally I prefer the grid switches rather than loads of fcu's, alternatively put the socket behind the adjacent unit and drill a hole in the side of the unit so the power cable can be pulled through and plugged in..
 
You can use the circuit breaker as an isolation switch so unless the consumer unit is not relatively easily accessible then even isolation switches above the worktop are not specifically required although it can be better to have them. (Personally I prefer the grid switches rather than loads of fcu's, alternatively put the socket behind the adjacent unit and drill a hole in the side of the unit so the power cable can be pulled through and plugged in..
It is required under Scottish building regs… that’s why I put “need/want” because sometimes easy isolation is required, sometimes not.

The trouble with unswitched sockets is people pulling the plug out on load. Which can happen if they leave the switch on anyway.
 
It is required under Scottish building regs… that’s why I put “need/want” because sometimes easy isolation is required, sometimes not.

The trouble with unswitched sockets is people pulling the plug out on load. Which can happen if they leave the switch on anyway.
Totally agree, I have lost count at the amount of times I’ve been asked to check (dodgy) sockets due to the user plugging in equipment/appliances under load conditions and then sparking (arcing in our terms) I understand that by not having a switched socket doesn’t make a difference Aslong as the equipment is not on but by having a switched socket you can clearly see the socket in off position and no arcing whilst plugging in
 
Totally agree, I have lost count at the amount of times I’ve been asked to check (dodgy) sockets due to the user plugging in equipment/appliances under load conditions and then sparking (arcing in our terms) I understand that by not having a switched socket doesn’t make a difference Aslong as the equipment is not on but by having a switched socket you can clearly see the socket in off position and no arcing whilst plugging in
But that doesn't make it a hard and fast requirement on an EICR
 
Totally agree, I have lost count at the amount of times I’ve been asked to check (dodgy) sockets due to the user plugging in equipment/appliances under load conditions and then sparking (arcing in our terms) I understand that by not having a switched socket doesn’t make a difference Aslong as the equipment is not on but by having a switched socket you can clearly see the socket in off position and no arcing whilst plugging in
I have been in the trade for nigh on 40 years and can never recall suggesting plugging items under load into or from a socket has resulted in the socket becoming faulty, how have you verified this.
 
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No it does not, however I do believe that
a switched socket is the best option unless a switched fused spur is operating the unswitched socket
Or a 20A DP switch

Given that unswitched sockets are normally more expensive than switched sockets economics would suggest that fitting switched sockets is the best option
 
I have been in the trade for nigh on 40 years and can never recall suggesting plugging items under load into or from a socket has resulted in the socket becoming faulty, how have you verified this.
You’ve missed my point here. The socket was never faulty to start with just the fact that the user plugged the 3 pin plug under load conditions and blamed the socket for being faulty when they saw a spark and s**t themselves. Verified what exactly?
 
You’ve missed my point here. The socket was never faulty to start with just the fact that the user plugged the 3 pin plug under load conditions and blamed the socket for being faulty when they saw a spark and s**t themselves. Verified what exactly?
Regardless of your 40 years my 17 years tells me enough to never plug In appliances/ electrical equipment whilst the supply is ON position
 
You’ve missed my point here. The socket was never faulty to start with just the fact that the user plugged the 3 pin plug under load conditions and blamed the socket for being faulty when they saw a spark and s**t themselves. Verified what exactly?
Verified that the user made it faulty by removing and inserting plugs under loads in #12. I have lost count the amount of times I've been asked to check (dodgy) sockets due to the user plugging in equipment/appliances under load conditions.................
 

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