Wiring up 8 x 230v 35w downlights

[123]

it's a big room 22 ft x 10ft. my method has always worked for me and customers have been happy. nothing worse than installing lighting to have the customer ask you for the loan of a white stick or a torch.

Hardly a big room. You must be fitting garbage lamps or fittings then. 12 @ 520 Lumens per lamp is over 6000 Lumens, and for a Lounge, only thing Customer will need is Sunglasses and a dimmer would be an absolute must.

 

[buzzlightyear]

it's a big room 22 ft x 10ft. my method has always worked for me and customers have been happy. nothing worse than installing lighting to have the customer ask you for the loan of a white stick or a torch.

10ft x 23ft .

 

[telectrix]

10ft x 23ft .

smart arse. i was allowing for the ceiling coving.

 

[Octopus]

I would agree that having the lights on 2 switches is a sensible idea - who is going to be doing the plastering?

EDIT : Is your lighting circuit RCD protected?

 

[buzzlightyear]

smart arse. i was allowing for the ceiling coving.

what's a foot between friends.

 

[buzzlightyear]

I would agree that having the lights on 2 switches is a sensible idea - who is going to be doing the plastering?

you Murdoch .

 

[Octopus]

you Murdoch .

You obviously haven't seen my attempt at plastering!

 

[buzzlightyear]

You obviously haven't seen my attempt at plastering!

is that plastering with butter knife !

 

[123]

I would agree that having the lights on 2 switches is a sensible idea - who is going to be doing the plastering?

EDIT : Is your lighting circuit RCD protected?

If not changing the switching, why does it need to be?

Things must be very different in England to here, 3m * 7m is not a big lounge, why on earth would you want the lighting switched in 2 zones especially if using a dimmer? 1 dimmer for all lamps and a nicely consistent lit room. Failing to see the benefit of having half of it switched off at all tbh.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Things must be very different in England to here, 3m * 7m is not a big lounge, why on earth would you want the lighting switched in 2 zones especially if using a dimmer? 1 dimmer for all lamps and a nicely

because its a Wendy house.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

Maybe I have misunderstood. I was under the impression that a homeowner can make additions to an existing lighting circuit without notifying building control.

I didn't say it had to be notified to BC, but that it has to be carried out in accordance with 7671, which means testing and certification.

 

[custie86]

Hi Murdoch, Yes RCD protected. I know a plasterer who will do the work for next to nothing. Mates rates n all. As 123 mentioned without the 2 way switch I could easily do the work but I'm unsure of how to wire it for the 2 way switch for 2 x 4 downlights.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Hi Murdoch, Yes RCD protected. I know a plasterer who will do the work for next to nothing. Mates rates n all. As 123 mentioned without the 2 way switch I could easily do the work but I'm unsure of how to wire it for the 2 way switch for 2 x 4 downlights.

I was waiting for this one, don't tell him pike .

 

[Dave OCD]

Ok Custie, am I right in thinking that the two existing pendants are switched on together ?
If so the pendant nearest the switch will probably have 3 cables, a feed in, a switch wire and a switched live & neutral to the far pendant. I'd replace the switch wire with a 3 core and CPC giving two switched returns and install a MF junction box above where the pendant with 3 cables is now. Then just run a new T&E from there to each bank of lights looping in and out, the s/l and neutral to the end of circuit light can be replaced or used to feed the first downlight on one of your 2 banks.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Ok Custie, am I right in thinking that the two existing pendants are switched on together ?

Hi Murdoch, Yes RCD protected. I know a plasterer who will do the work for next to nothing. Mates rates n all. As 123 mentioned without the 2 way switch I could easily do the work but I'm unsure of how to wire it for the 2 way switch for 2 x 4 downlights.

If so the pendant nearest the switch will probably have 3 cables, a feed in, a switch wire and a switched live & neutral to the far pendant. I'd replace the switch wire with a 3 core and CPC giving two switched returns and install a MF junction box above where the pendant with 3 cables is now. Then just run a new T&E from there to each bank of lights looping in and out, the s/l and neutral to the end of circuit light can be replaced or used to feed the first downlight on one of your 2 banks.

say no more!

 

[buzzlightyear]

any body in Liverpool to give a trainee a hand, in the far off land for a jam butty !

 

[westward10]

34 posts and we got there.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

As it comes under part P you will have to carry out the work in accordance with Bs7671. Which means testing and certification in accordance with Bs7671. Failure to do so is against the law.

I note DaveOCD disagrees with the necessity to carry it out in accordance with Bs7671?

 

[Toneyz]

say no more!

We're just guessing the existing maybe some pictures of the existing pendants and switches better advice could be given.

 

[GeorgeCooke]

Hi Murdoch, Yes RCD protected. I know a plasterer who will do the work for next to nothing. Mates rates n all. As 123 mentioned without the 2 way switch I could easily do the work but I'm unsure of how to wire it for the 2 way switch for 2 x 4 downlights.

You don't need a 2 way switch. You need 2 single way switches. They may be on one plate. Lets call it a dual switch, or in your case a dual dimmer.