Xtrail No spark unless cam sensor removed

[teclights]

Hello,
I have a Nissa xtrail (petrol) that is refusing to start... It's a long story but ...two things happened more or less at the same time - 1. Timing chain jumped some teeth due to failed tensioner & 2. Crank Pos sensor developed a fault which somehow melted the connector block!.
Timing chain is replaced & the car wont start... I've hade crank & cam sensors changed & ECU tested - cant see any wiring damage.
I get 1 spark & then nothing when turning the engine over, but If I disconnect the cam sensor I get consistent spark.
Since I've changed the sensors I've hit a brick wall as to what could be the problem....
Any thoughts / ideas much appreciated..

 

[tazz]

Due to cam belt jumping...would suggest all needs retiming in correct order. The cam/crank and aux are out of syncoisation

 

[Robotstar5]

Do you have access to a code reader to see what faults the ECU has?

Something like an Elmscan that plugs into a laptop is good value.

 

[tazz]

The above is the best start^^^^

 

[teclights]

Thanks for that Tazz, The chain has been replaced, so I'll go back to the garage & get them to re-check.

 

[teclights]

Thanks, I don't have access t this, will see about getting it...

 

[PEG]

Hi dude,who re-timed it back up? and when you say it sparks,do you mean it runs? or just produces a consistent,timed spark? Any code read you carry out,static or running will be ONLY be accurate,if the mechanical work is spot-on. Issues as slipped tapers on drive wheels,mis-timing etc,will cause error codes to be errors themselves. I suggest you get someone with the reading equipment capable of individual component testing (function/parameter test). Your bog standard OBD code number readers cannot do this. There are also other reasons for ignition shut down,such as anti-theft,and collision sensors,so spend 30~40 quid,and see what they find. Good luck.

 

[teclights]

Hi dude,who re-timed it back up? and when you say it sparks,do you mean it runs? or just produces a consistent,timed spark? Any code read you carry out,static or running will be ONLY be accurate,if the mechanical work is spot-on. Issues as slipped tapers on drive wheels,mis-timing etc,will cause error codes to be errors themselves. I suggest you get someone with the reading equipment capable of individual component testing (function/parameter test). Your bog standard OBD code number readers cannot do this. There are also other reasons for ignition shut down,such as anti-theft,and collision sensors,so spend 30~40 quid,and see what they find. Good luck.

Hi PEG
Thanks for your reply.. The mystery deepens!...
In reply - the Garage did the chain replacement & at the time they told me that the chain was badly stretched/worn. So it was the garage that re-timed it with the new one. They seemed to take care over doing it so its hard to see they got it wrong... but anythings possible.. The latest news is that the car now runs! (when I first posted, it wouldn't start) However, it idles very poorly & stuttey as if it was like an older car run without the choke (it makes no difference hot or cold). It will eventually struggle & stop running. But if you apply gas, then it runs nice & smooth.
The mystery is that the only way the garage could get it to run at all is by shifting the intake cam chain by two teeth! The garage insist that they had the tming right according to marks & auto data.
I took the plunge with the software & the ECU isn't showing any codes & as far as I can tell, there are signals from the sensors. There are no stored codes, but then they were cleared when I had the ecu tested.
I'm told the intake valve solenoid mechanism may be an issue ? - but I don't know - I'm a regular electrician & no mechanic.. I'm resorting to trying to work with the garage coz I need my car back!
Cheers buddy

 

[gnuuser]

Hi PEG
Thanks for your reply.. The mystery deepens!...
In reply - the Garage did the chain replacement & at the time they told me that the chain was badly stretched/worn. So it was the garage that re-timed it with the new one. They seemed to take care over doing it so its hard to see they got it wrong... but anythings possible.. The latest news is that the car now runs! (when I first posted, it wouldn't start) However, it idles very poorly & stuttey as if it was like an older car run without the choke (it makes no difference hot or cold). It will eventually struggle & stop running. But if you apply gas, then it runs nice & smooth.
The mystery is that the only way the garage could get it to run at all is by shifting the intake cam chain by two teeth! The garage insist that they had the tming right according to marks & auto data.
I took the plunge with the software & the ECU isn't showing any codes & as far as I can tell, there are signals from the sensors. There are no stored codes, but then they were cleared when I had the ecu tested.
I'm told the intake valve solenoid mechanism may be an issue ? - but I don't know - I'm a regular electrician & no mechanic.. I'm resorting to trying to work with the garage coz I need my car back!
Cheers buddy

depending on how many miles the car has on it they may have had to advance it to get it to run
ive always changed the gears at the same time i changed the timing chain.
even then had to advance the timing a few degrees from the recommended setting.
in general the recommended settings are a ball park figure
this gets you close enough to run and be able to fine tune it.