Scratching my head over immersion heater!

[Leesparkykent]

You set the high limit stat to 65 degrees? Is there another dial for actual temperature rather than the high limit temperature?

 

[ruston]

Nope, the wiring is secure as I double checked everything.

Don’t get me started with the plumber, that’s a whole different topic on its own!

I haven’t got a picture of the gubbins but have a link the thermal stat :

Home Heating Spares

Welcome to The Plumb Shop the new home of Home Heating Spares. We have you covered for your plumbing, heating, and renewable products at competitive prices.

www.homeheatingspares.co.uk

I‘ve done everything I can electrically, maybe there’s a build up of limescale In the tank?, but the plumber would of seen that and commented on it?

I have had that before where the element was caked in lime scale and was sitting on a bed of shingles. As you say though, the plumber would have noticed that.

 

[ETradesmen]

I’ve lost all faith in the plumber, very unprofessional.

I forgot to mention that there is an electric boiler in the cupboard doing the central heating, I don’t think that has anything to do with the problem?

heres a link to the tank :

* CENTERSTORE 150 DIRECT UNVENTED CYL | Wolseley

Looking for a CenterStore Direct Cylinder CCSSDIR150? Order from Wolseley today - free delivery or click and collect available nationwide.

www.wolseley.co.uk

thanks for all your help.

 

[buzzlightyear]

where the element was caked in lime scale

If the plumber had changed the element and the stat then it would have been a problem unless he did not know what he was doing.

 

[hasel5]

Is the cylinder linked to the boiler as in a hot water heating oil?

 

[ETradesmen]

Is the cylinder linked to the boiler as in a hot water heating oil?

Not linked electrically, I’m unsure on the plumbing side though.

 

[freddo]

You set the high limit stat to 65 degrees? Is there another dial for actual temperature rather than the high limit temperature?

According to the above attached installer manual it says the element stat is a combined control and overheat stat in the same module. Only the control temperature can be adjusted and it has a range from 10C to 72C.

 

[ETradesmen]

Just a quick update guys,

I’ve just heard back from my client who has informed me that according to her new plumber the thermostat was set too high resulting in nuisance tripping.

I had followed the instructions and set the stat to roughly 65 degrees, I say roughly as there were no markings on the bloody thing!

Oh well, lesson learnt I suppose?

 

[davesparks]

Just a quick update guys,

I’ve just heard back from my client who has informed me that according to her new plumber the thermostat was set too high resulting in nuisance tripping.

I had followed the instructions and set the stat to roughly 65 degrees, I say roughly as there were no markings on the bloody thing!

Oh well, lesson learnt I suppose?

Are you sure you read the instructions correctly? Domestic hot water is normally set to 55 degrees.

I haven't been near a megaflo for a while now, but they used to have a 1 - 5 scale on them with 4 being the 'normal' setting if I remember correctly.

 

[Pete999]

Just a quick update guys,

I’ve just heard back from my client who has informed me that according to her new plumber the thermostat was set too high resulting in nuisance tripping.

I had followed the instructions and set the stat to roughly 65 degrees, I say roughly as there were no markings on the bloody thing!

Oh well, lesson learnt I suppose?

Earlier posts said that there wasn't a stat!

 

[telectrix]

Earlier posts said that there wasn't a stat!

think he meant that there wasn't a tank stat, as opposed to the stat in the element.

 

[Pete999]

think he meant that there wasn't a tank stat, as opposed to the stat in the element.

Oh OK sorry OP my mistake.

 

[Timbo]

Shouldn't you have G3 accreditation to work on unvented hot water systems? Or did I waste my time and money?

 

[ETradesmen]

Low and behold, it tripped again.

As I mentioned in my first post I don’t normally go as far as this.

I set the stat temperature as per the drawing shows.

Im done with this particular job but am helping the lovely client as best as I can.

 

[marconi]

I recognise ETradesmen has done his level best and indeed left the client on good terms - good man. Alas the poor woman, (with children?) now has no hot water or at best lukewarm water. Will not a local (Watford?) EF electrician go and give a second opinion?

PS: Any chance of wiring up the mid level E7 element so at least she can warm up half a tank?

 

[snowhead]

Shouldn't you have G3 accreditation to work on unvented hot water systems? Or did I waste my time and money?

Yes you should and that includes energising the immersion heaters or any other heat source and checking full operation including temperature of water at the tap.

 

[marconi]

Ref: # 23: I think I may have worked out what is wrong. I believe the OP may be mistaken about how the electric immersion element is meant to be wired in and controlled.

If I have interpreted correctly what the OP has described, the electric element currently does not have a push on rod thermostat with cutout - the direct heating system. Instead, the element is being controlled by the upper thermostat and cutout which are meant for the indirect system.

If one reads the installation instructions at #23, it describes how to connect up the electric immersion heater with its own stat and cutout, and the indirect stat and cutout to control a boiler. There is a drawing on page 15 and component list which indicates the electric element is meant to have its own stat and cutout. Someone then - the plumber ? - may have discovered the electric element's stat and cutout were defective and co-opted the indirect stat and cut-out instead.

I doubt that the indirect stat and cut-out have the required current rating for the electric element - but may be wrong on this count. Anyway, the indirect stat and cut-out are not designed to control properly and safely the electric element.

What needs to be ordered is the correct stat and cutout for the electric element and it then fitted and wired up as in Fig 7 Page 9. Note Fig 7 shows the upper stat and cutout are not wired to the electric element.

The correct part has this number 95 612 026. See:

Heatrae Sadia - Megaflo Thermostat 11" Rod Type TSE/TSR 95612026 95612599 - Specialists in plumbing & heating spares - https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/heatrae-sadia-megaflo-thermostat-11-rod-type-tse-tsr-95612026-95612599.html?utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy%20Unvented%20Components%20Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=3590&gclid=CjwKCAjwwMn1BRAUEiwAZ_jnEpIuG47ccjQMP8v4i0VP-hIt-MKRx3PP-nXk4_7wkz4vpjQY8pAV6hoCTzEQAvD_BwE

ETTradesmen - hope this helps.

 

[ETradesmen]

N

Ref: # 23: I think I may have worked out what is wrong. I believe the OP may be mistaken about how the electric immersion element is meant to be wired in and controlled.

If I have interpreted correctly what the OP has described, the electric element currently does not have a push on rod thermostat with cutout - the direct heating system. Instead, the element is being controlled by the upper thermostat and cutout which are meant for the indirect system.

If one reads the installation instructions at #23, it describes how to connect up the electric immersion heater with its own stat and cutout, and the indirect stat and cutout to control a boiler. There is a drawing on page 15 and component list which indicates the electric element is meant to have its own stat and cutout. Someone then - the plumber ? - may have discovered the electric element's stat and cutout were defective and co-opted the indirect stat and cut-out instead.

I doubt that the indirect stat and cut-out have the required current rating for the electric element - but may be wrong on this count. Anyway, the indirect stat and cut-out are not designed to control properly and safely the electric element.

What needs to be ordered is the correct stat and cutout for the electric element and it then fitted and wired up as in Fig 7 Page 9. Note Fig 7 shows the upper stat and cutout are not wired to the electric element.

The correct part has this number 95 612 026. See:

Heatrae Sadia - Megaflo Thermostat 11" Rod Type TSE/TSR 95612026 95612599 - Specialists in plumbing & heating spares - https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/heatrae-sadia-megaflo-thermostat-11-rod-type-tse-tsr-95612026-95612599.html?utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy%20Unvented%20Components%20Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=3590&gclid=CjwKCAjwwMn1BRAUEiwAZ_jnEpIuG47ccjQMP8v4i0VP-hIt-MKRx3PP-nXk4_7wkz4vpjQY8pAV6hoCTzEQAvD_BwE

ETTradesmen - hope this helps.

hey, nope it isn’t that stat that works with the tank. I’ve posted a link above to the correct one.

I spent a while on the phone today with technical and they seem to think it’s either the dry pocket that separates the element from the stat or a second return with a pump running 24/7. I don’t really understand the ins and outs of plumbing as I’m an electrician,

I’ve asked her to keep me posted

 

[marconi]

Now I'm flummoxed. Thanks for the feedback. To be clear - no slight on you intended.

To clarify something - you did say this was an all electric home with a separate electric boiler?

I know it is a cheek to ask but might you ask (or suggest to) the lady to post some pictures of her hot water and central heating system on the EF to amuse some locked up leccies?

Regards Marconi

 

[freddo]

Ref: # 23: I think I may have worked out what is wrong. I believe the OP may be mistaken about how the electric immersion element is meant to be wired in and controlled.

It threw me a bit, it looks like the new cylinders have a pair of matching stat/cutout pairs, one for indirect control the other for the immersion. Previous models had a stat/cutout for indirect and a plug on stat/cutout for the immersion.