New kitchen, multi switches

[Steviecuk]

Hi all.

So I'm designing my new kitchen and trying to plan where things will go. I currently have a 6 switch panel for the appliances (hob, cooker hood, washing machine, tumble dryer, dishwasher and fridge/freezer). I was wondering... are these regulation to have these switches? Half of the items connected to it are now going on a different side of the kitchen and will be plugged into switched sockets on their own... and the rest I can also plug into switched sockets in adjacent cupboard.

But do you HAVE TO have these multi switches in a kitchen?

Thanks in advance. S.

 

[OLDBOY]

No you dont, just comply with the requirements for isolation for each appliance. FCU's....socket outlets or DP isolators in suitable accessible locations.

 

[Steviecuk]

No you dont, just comply with the requirements for isolation for each appliance. FCU's....socket outlets or DP isolators in suitable accessible locations.

Excellent thank you. I just didn't want to fit the units if the electrician is going to have to start chasing walls etc.

One last thing if I may... oven isolator switches... do I have to have this? I have read both yes and no online and they're not the prettiest of things.

If yes I'll need to leave a unit out till the end. Will be two single ovens running from the dedicated oven circuit on the consumer unit which will be pretty much in arms reach of the ovens themselves.

 

[R-fur]

You do need oven isolators, they are there to isolate the oven for cleaning and repair. If it is not obvious what they are for then they should be labeled. i.e. top oven and bottom oven,

 

[Steviecuk]

You do need oven isolators, they are there to isolate the oven for cleaning and repair. If it is not obvious what they are for then they should be labeled. i.e. top oven and bottom oven,

Thank you for this. What about if the ovens are being fitted to 13a switchable sockets that will be easily accessible, will that suffice as adequate 'isolation'? I'm just trying to reduce sockets on the back wall. Thank you.

 

[R-fur]

I wouldent put a single oven on a 13A socket, 20A DP switch as a minimum, Check the rating of the oven and decide whether it should be a 20A, 30A or 40A circuit.

 

[Steviecuk]

Thanks all.

So I just bought a 2 gang 45a oven isolator switch in preparation to have it installed. However looking at it there is only a feed and single set of supply terminals. Would have thought it would have two sets of supply terminals or are they designed to just run two sets of cables from the same?

 

[OLDBOY]

Thanks all.

So I just bought a 2 gang 45a oven isolator switch in preparation to have it installed. However looking at it there is only a feed and single set of supply terminals. Would have thought it would have two sets of supply terminals or are they designed to just run two sets of cables from the same?

Why dont you ask your electrician?

 

[Steviecuk]

Why dont you ask your electrician?

If everyone did that these forums would be like a ghost town.

Plus I like to get a number of opinions rather than just one. It's amazing how something that could be very black and white has so many differing opinions.

 

[OLDBOY]

If everyone did that these forums would be like a ghost town.

Plus I like to get a number of opinions rather than just one. It's amazing how something that could be very black and white has so many differing opinions.

Fair enough, but it seems clear the OP is doing the work himself if you read the posts, no issue with that but I would prefer it if that was stated rather than wool being pulled over eyes over alleged electricians.

 

[Steviecuk]

Fair enough, but it seems clear the OP is doing the work himself if you read the posts, no issue with that but I would prefer it if that was stated rather than wool being pulled over eyes over alleged electricians.

No that's me. I'm doing some bits myself but not the stuff that needs to be signed off. I'm chasing walls and digging channels because some of them I have to before fitting the units.

The oven isolator I'm having gold sockets and don't really want a giant oven switch ruining the aesthetics, and then I'm having two ovens so didn't want two switches, hence why I bought a 2 gang. I don't want the electrician turning up and sticking a horrible white stock thing up hence I'm getting all the gear ahead of time and wanted to make sure I have the right stuff without pestering him every ten minutes.

The plumber came and had to go to the merchants to buy all the stuff he needed so I'm trying to help cut all that out.

 

[OLDBOY]

Ok, well by way of info I have never seen a dual 45a isolator....can you post a front and back view?

 

[Steviecuk]

Ok, well by way of info I have never seen a dual 45a isolator....can you post a front and back view?

Yeah sure thank you. I bought this one and ordered a gold one in case it don't come in time and can be swapped later.

It is advertised as 2 gang so I assume they'll both be wired to the one switch in parallel but I expected two sets of supply ports on the back.

 

[nicebutdim]

Yeah sure thank you. I bought this one and ordered a gold one in case it don't come in time and can be swapped later.

It is advertised as 2 gang so I assume they'll both be wired to the one switch in parallel but I expected two sets of supply ports on the back.

2 gnag in this instance refers to the plate size.

 

[OLDBOY]

That only switches one appliance. It may be possible to use a single box size 2 gang grid system with two 20a dp switches.....but you wont be able to terminate a 6.0mm cable ito it though. I would just use two 20a dp isolators butted together