Can plastic trunking be used in a commercial kitchen

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Maxvoltelectrics

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Doing some work in a commercial restaurant/kitchen the builders had already boarded and plastered the walls meaning my only viable route is to use trunking high level to get cables to the points in need do I need to use metal conduit or trunking or can plastic be used some trunking will be in the seating area and toilet not much of it will actually be in the main kitchen area itself
Also the floor has be tiled and the client wants some appliances in the middle of the kitchen can I run some kind of trunking on the floor and use metal sockets under the appliances
 

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I know this won't help with the job but why are so many builders insistent on plastering etc before services have gone in. We were at a job the other day that has had a fire upstairs only, as they wasn't touching downstairs really they decided to put a new chipboard floor down all upstairs. I turn up and say great, what about the burnt wires in the floor void that we have to replace, the builders looked all confused and said but I thought it was just the lights you would have to do.

Now they have to repair/replace the downstairs ceilings as well. I don't get it, its not like its their first rodeo.
 
Plastic can be used, metal can be used, surface cabling can also be used, it is up to the person designing the install to establish what is required and what is best suited.

In a restaurant you are likely to need a different approach in the public areas to that in the non-public/working areas.
 
Maxvoltelectrics said:
the builders had already boarded and plastered the walls
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I don't doubt it, builders are brain dead idiots, you can use whatever containment you feel suits the room and conditions in the room, personally I would prefer conduit to trunking but trunking does get used a lot in all types of installations, sometimes ugly but still okay to use.
 
Just to throw a spanner in the works……

Trunking is clean lines, whereas conduit introduces many nooks and crannies that are going to get dirty.


Who was it that was so unorganised that finishing walls came before running services in the plans?

If it’s all empty partition walls, you might be able to run trunking high level and drop down inside the wall to hide some of the cables.
 
'Trunking' covers a lot of ground. Some is cheap with poorly fitting lid and gaps in which grease is likely to accumulate. Not sure if the OP has in mind some cheap mini trunking to hold a single cable - especially given the mention of running it across a floor (seriously?), but I'd be inclined to look at something robust carrying all circuits at high level, with individual circuits piped from it and nothing on the floor to present a trip hazard.
 
Vortigern said:
Conduit all the way for me. Can't quite see why you would resort to trunking? Maybe marshalling cables at supply etc. but apart from that, no not at all if I could help it.
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Depends what you're supplying. I wouldn't be feeding a few 3 phase appliances and various socket outlets totally via conduit.
 
ipf said:
I wouldn't be feeding a few 3 phase appliances and various socket outlets
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As a matter of interest/curiosity can you expand on that a bit? i.e. why etc.
I think tables for trunking/conduit capacity would rule out putting two or more 3ph items and other sockets in the same conduit. I would consider separate circuits for individual 3ph appliances. Of course you could use SWA direct to the appliance in this instance.
 
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I'd run a perimeter trunking high level then drop down in conduit with the U clip saddle to minimise need for cleaning the univolt maxi trunking is very good firm lid that won't let ---- get in
 
Vortigern said:
As a matter of interest/curiosity can you expand on that a bit? i.e. why etc.
I think tables for trunking/conduit capacity would rule out putting two or more 3ph items and other sockets in the same conduit. I would consider separate circuits for individual 3ph appliances. Of course you could use SWA direct to the appliance in this instance.
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I can’t really see what you’re point is.
Well, DB at one end of 15x15m kitchen. Are you going to install umpteen conduits directly from that board to each appliance (and socket) or run one trunking around allowing for short lengths of conduit or isolation devices fixed to and fed via it?
 
I have fitted lovely stainless steel trunking in the past, looks great and you get no corrosion from steam or wash down etc.
Finish it off with stainless conduit down to the fittings.

Only problem is it is not cheep and will wear out a few hole saws whilst installing the drops!
 
James said:
I have fitted lovely stainless steel trunking in the past, looks great and you get no corrosion from steam or wash down etc.
Finish it off with stainless conduit down to the fittings.

Only problem is it is not cheep and will wear out a few hole saws whilst installing the drops!
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Never worked with, or even seen, SS trunking. A belly full of SS tray and conduit though. I find that standard bi-metal holesaws (of decent quality) are adequate for cutting even heavier SS enclosures - plenty of pressure and very low speed.
 
nicebutdim said:
Never worked with, or even seen, SS trunking. A belly full of SS tray and conduit though. I find that standard bi-metal holesaws (of decent quality) are adequate for cutting even heavier SS enclosures - plenty of pressure and very low speed.
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It's awesome stuff, I install it somewhat frequently for hygiene areas. Always looks great and is easily cleaned. The polished trunking looks really cool. Got some 50mm SS conduit to install next week, the price of the larger conduits is eye watering though! An electric bender and threader helps a lot. I usually use stainless rated hole punches for the holes.
 
Whilst this all depends massively on exactly what size/style of kitchen we’re talking about, high level white box trunking is versatile, quick to fit and glue seams to maintain IP rating and easy to keep clean. Alternatively if high levels of dirt are to be expected then ss conduit on hospital saddles is a logical choice although you’re doubling if not trebling the install time and faff down to outlets. NEVER fit anything to the floor, always drop down from above.
 
ipf said:
I can’t really see what you’re point is.
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Not so much making a point as a question as to what would you do really. I don't normally encounter 225 sq m. kitchens. Usually more like 5m x 4m. No I am not going to run x amount of cables in separate conduit in your scenario. But then as I say I don't often encounter that size of kitchen. As to appliances there are usually around 10-15 mostly single phase occasionally a couple (at most) three phase. I am not questioning your methodology nor trying to make a point just attempting to join in the conversation. There is no combative element to my contributions if there appears to be then apologies.
 
James said:
I have fitted lovely stainless steel trunking in the past, looks great and you get no corrosion from steam or wash down etc.
Finish it off with stainless conduit down to the fittings.

Only problem is it is not cheep and will wear out a few hole saws whilst installing the drops!
Click to expand...
I worked with SS last week..... rightly so..the cost of blades and bits was a LOT ! Its a very nice looking material that is a bitch to play with on site .Ive seen one job where they ended up bringing in some funky cutter etc just to keep the Temp down during cutting as it was making the edges discoloured .
 
Vortigern said:
Not so much making a point as a question as to what would you do really. I don't normally encounter 225 sq m. kitchens. Usually more like 5m x 4m. No I am not going to run x amount of cables in separate conduit in your scenario. But then as I say I don't often encounter that size of kitchen. As to appliances there are usually around 10-15 mostly single phase occasionally a couple (at most) three phase. I am not questioning your methodology nor trying to make a point just attempting to join in the conversation. There is no combative element to my contributions if there appears to be then apologies.
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No problem, it’s just different experiences. When talking ‘commercial kitchens’ I’m thinking schools, restaurants, etc. Some can be pretty big and need to be.
 
Why not take a new armour to the kitchen and install a sub board there?

Then you will only have one cable from front to back

Could you drop the kitchen ceiling slightly to allow to hide cable runs / trunking. You could probably drop the cables from there behind the plasterboard to the appliances
 
Maxvoltelectrics said:
Doing some work in a commercial restaurant/kitchen the builders had already boarded and plastered the walls meaning my only viable route is to use trunking high level to get cables to the points in need do I need to use metal conduit or trunking or can plastic be used some trunking will be in the seating area and toilet not much of it will actually be in the main kitchen area itself
Also the floor has be tiled and the client wants some appliances in the middle of the kitchen can I run some kind of trunking on the floor and use metal sockets under the appliances
Click to expand...
Have you considered the fire regulations/requirements, if there was a fire plastic trunking is likely to melt spilling its contents all over the place impeding access and egress. This could also prevent the fire service from safely putting out the fire, all cable should be securely fixed with metal fittings to prevent such occurence.
 
M4SSO said:
all cable should be securely fixed with metal fittings to prevent such occurence.
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You get metal clips to fit inside the trunking and screw to the wall behind that do this fire support aspect. Some are custom made to match (but often impossible to get in less than a pack of 100) like the Marshall-Tuffex ones, or you can use other metal clips every so often to prevent collapse.
 
pc1966 said:
You get metal clips to fit inside the trunking and screw to the wall behind that do this fire support aspect. Some are custom made to match (but often impossible to get in less than a pack of 100) like the Marshall-Tuffex ones, or you can use other metal clips every so often to prevent collapse.
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Ok thanks mate I will look into this defo as it stands the clients is goin to box most of the cables in so I will secure them to the wall with metal clips or all band would that be suitable
 

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