Cooker cable

[Dan2505]

Hi

we are about to re do our kitchen and am looking for information on the hard wireing for the built in cooker as we want to move it! Can I buy new cable and lengthen the cable from the cooker to the wireing point and have the cable running around behind the cabinets? If not how much would it roughly cost to have a new wireing point installed where it needs to be!
Any help would be great

 

[Dartlec]

How is the cooker currently wired? Is there an isolation switch, and a box on the wall behind it with a short lead running to the cooker?

Do you know what the circuit protection (MCB or fuse) is? Are we talking a stand along range with electric hob, or just an oven on a plug?

A picture of your consumer unit, the current location and where you want to move it to will probably help give better advice.

Running cabling behind cabinets is certainly possible, though the length of the new circuit may be limited by various factors, such as the rating of the cooker, the size of cable, etc. Any cabling should be properly supported though rather than just slung across the floor as often happens with kitchen fitters....

Unfortunately, there are lots of factors involved in installing a new cooker to the current regulations, which means unless you are confident in working with electrical cables it is probably better to get an electrician to look at it - cooking appliances tend to be high current drains and any issue with loose connections or incorrect wiring has the potential to cause safety problems more than some other circuits.

It may be necessary to upgrade the current protection to meet current regulations, but that will depend on your current consumer unit age and setup.

It may be worth getting a few quotes in person - the price could vary a lot depending on location but I'd have thought it should only take 1-2 hours maximum, if there is no chasing or channeling involved. Hourly rate can vary wildly depending on size of company, but I'd say the usual range is going to be 30-80. Then there would be the cable, the connection box and clips to add on top.

You should be able to get a fixed price quote from a local smaller one man band or smaller company - they are more likely to be wiling to do small jobs like this.

 

[Dan2505]

There is an isolation switch above and a hard wire point behind the cooker! I was just wondering if I can buy a long length of cable and wire it back into the same place it’s wired now instead! Only reason is because there would be chaseinf and channeling involved like you said

thanks

 

[telectrix]

you can wire from the cooker outlet, behind the cupboards , or even on the floor underneath. only criteria is that the cable is routed away from where it may suffer damage and is adequately secured. use same size cable (6.0mm or 10.0mm) as already fitted. you can fit a second outlet close to the new cooker position.

 

[brianmoooore]

Isn't it 2m max. distance between switch and appliance?

 

[telectrix]

Isn't it 2m max. distance between switch and appliance?

think that's some recommend, can't find a reg. to support it.

 

[loz2754]

think that's some recommend, can't find a reg. to support it.

OSG appendix H4 is the only reference I can find. No reg number is cross referenced.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Isn't it 2m max. distance between switch and appliance?

We have been over thus so many times!
The only reference to 2metres are in some of those guides for the hard of thinking.

There is no regulation. In fact there is even no regulation that states that there must be an isolation switch on an oven, or other domestic appliance.
Therefore if there is no requirement for a switch then there can not be a stated distance.

 

[loz2754]

We have been over thus so many times!
The only reference to 2metres are in some of those guides for the hard of thinking.

There is no regulation. In fact there is even no regulation that states that there must be an isolation switch on an oven, or other domestic appliance.
Therefore if there is no requirement for a switch then there can not be a stated distance.

I agree that there is no stated regulation that requires an isolation switch for a cooking appliance.
I do, however, not agree with the somewhat derisory assertion that guides are for the hard of thinking.
I can think of many instances where guides have been, at least to some degree, useful in assisting myself and others when faced with a somewhat unclear decision. Not that we should blindly follow guidance, but that it is often useful, and can add dimension and perspective to a particular situation.
In fact, the On Site Guide, along with Guidance Notes 1-8, are produced by some of the very same people that write the regulations. This being so because it would be impossible to incorporate every single scenario in one book of regulations. Therefore, surely, such additional guidance should be welcomed and not dismissed so readily.
We are professional, trained, skilled and instructed people (hopefully!), and much of the training we have received has come from sources other than the Book of Regulations.

 

[LastManOnline]

I agree that there is no stated regulation that requires an isolation switch for a cooking appliance.

No means of isolation for a cooking appliance? That's extremely unusual. What's the reasoning behind that?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Switch off the MCB, perhaps.

 

[loz2754]

No means of isolation for a cooking appliance? That's extremely unusual. What's the reasoning behind that?

The reasoning is that in a domestic single phase installation the double pole means of isolation can be taken to be the main switch in the consumer unit. The regulations would be met, but in many cases, it would be practical to include a more local means of isolation, in other words a cooker isolation switch. However, the regulations do not specifically require a cooker isolation switch to be installed.

 

[Mikegh]

The reasoning is that in a domestic single phase installation the double pole means of isolation can be taken to be the main switch in the consumer unit. The regulations would be met, but in many cases, it would be practical to include a more local means of isolation, in other words a cooker isolation switch. However, the regulations do not specifically require a cooker isolation switch to be installed.

That's putting it mildly

Isolating a cooker at a main switch is crazy

Also there'd be an element of risk in relation to emergency , an MCB wouldn't satisfy that imo

 

[Mikegh]

That's putting it mildly

Isolating a cooker at a main switch is crazy

Also there'd be an element of risk in relation to emergency , an MCB wouldn't satisfy that imo

Appreciate for TN the MCB will do in theory

 

[Planctonboy]

That's putting it mildly

Isolating a cooker at a main switch is crazy

Also there'd be an element of risk in relation to emergency , an MCB wouldn't satisfy that imo

Couple of issues here. Firstly I would say that just because the regs don't specifically call for an isolation switch you have to bear in mind that there is a requirement for isolation for maintenance. Using the main switch at the c/u for this is just poor practice. Do you really think it's OK to turn off the whole installation so one appliance can be serviced. This is why the regs and good practice are to be considered together as this is the essence of good installation.
Secondly I would say it's not OK to extend from the cooker outlet point to the new cooker location if the new kitchen layout means that the original connection point is inaccessible - I.e covered by a kitchen unit. Screw terminals are supposed to be accessible for inspection. So hiding this joint behind a kitchen unit would not comply. Better to extend by running a new cable from the cooker isolation switch to the new location.
And I'm also pretty sure the 2m requirement for the isolator is a building regs requirement. I seem to remember reading this in the "electricians guide to the building regs" some years ago. Which reminds me , I'll. have to get an updated copy. Its a really useful book.

 

[telectrix]

but...MCB is only single pole isolation. not good if there's a N-E fault.

 

[Taylortwocities]

but...MCB is only single pole isolation. not good if there's a N-E fault.

That’s the same logic for any load. I don’t have a double pole isolator for 97% of the devices in my house. Why does an oven deserve special treatment?

 

[telectrix]

because..... in the case of a N-E fault on an appliance, you can unpl ug it for 2 pole isolation. ovens (usually) don't have a plug and so the

 

[Mikegh]

because..... in the case of a N-E fault on an appliance, you can unpl ug it for 2 pole isolation. ovens (usually) don't have a plug and so the

Yes the cooker would effectively be the only appliance you can't isolate to clear an N-E fault

 

[Mikegh]

because..... in the case of a N-E fault on an appliance, you can unpl ug it for 2 pole isolation. ovens (usually) don't have a plug and so the

Is there no rule to cover that scenario

They usually are versed like something like "not creating an unnecessary nuisance in an installation"

By leaving out the isolator you're making it difficult for the homeowner to clear the N-E fault