Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!

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freddo said:
that and the hundreds of times I've written my name and the date behind patresses, DBs, under floors... Does anyone else do that BTW? I often note the weather as well.
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I've written the date under floors before (why I don't know!), but bizarrely never come across such scribblings. Perhaps it's only me & you freddo, that do it o_O
 
darkwood said:
@Harwoodandy - Not sure what you are viewing the picture on regarding freddo's post but most of your questions are answered in the PIC, I can understand missing the flylead on the SWA on a phone sized screen but asking if the N are Ferruled when its more than obvious they are has confused me a little as did a few other questions you asked did o_O
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Thanks for the input....
My question was to the OP - when viewing on my phone screen its rather difficult to tell, if it was more than obvious I wouldn't have asked would I. Perhaps you are easily confused? Perhaps I should just ask you in future?
 
darkwood said:
@Harwoodandy - Not sure what you are viewing the picture on regarding freddo's post but most of your questions are answered in the PIC, I can understand missing the flylead on the SWA on a phone sized screen but asking if the N are Ferruled when its more than obvious they are has confused me a little as did a few other questions you asked did o_O
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input....
My question was to the OP - when viewing on my phone screen its rather difficult to tell, if it was more than obvious I wouldn't have asked would I. Perhaps you are easily confused? Perhaps I should just ask you in future?
freddo said:
Our prices are quite a bit higher than most of the local electrical companies, partly because there is a number of us as well as office staff, but I hope we offer value for money. It is sometimes difficult to compete with the huge number of local one-man-bands, some of which seem to get away with poor and non-compliant work, but we have enough work to keep us busy.

I have no intention of letting standards slip, or giving in to laziness, its f***ing hard and a slog sometimes, but I keep pushing myself to make sure every box is ticked. I'm an ugly scruffy git in real life, my car is old and needs a wash, and my hair is long and untidy and I'm certainly not perfect when it comes to electrical work. I still have to refer to the regs books and guides now and then and I've made my share of mistakes! But I still aim to work in a professional way and for my installations and repairs to be workman like. It's a great feeling having clients calling in for work, and asking for me to attend, as well as going back to an installation from 7,8, whatever years ago and being proud to say 'I installed that'. I live alone, I don't have any kids, when I die all I'll leave behind is the electrical installations I've installed over the years, that and the hundreds of times I've written my name and the date behind patresses, DBs, under floors... Does anyone else do that BTW? I often note the weather as well.


It is written on the conductor attached to the banjo. The CPC is wrapped in G/Y tape as I ran out of sleeving large enough to fit. :(

There is a gland and the banjo is on the outside of the enclosure, connected with brass nut and bolt, outside so all brass in contact, better than a possibly rusty steel locknut in contact with the banjo.

It's not in the neutral bar it is in the neutral terminal on the RCBO. It is hidden behind the line conductors.

Yes, the neutral flyleads from the RCBOs are in ferrules. I have used them as I shortened them to save space in the enclosure, which of course involves cutting off the manufacturers ferrule. Fine and very fine stranded conductors must be fitted with a ferrule unless the terminal is specifically designed to accept such a conductor, the flyleads are very fine stranded so ferrules must be used.

The neutral flyleads from the RCBOs are all the same size, the circuits neutral is connected to the RCBO it's 1.0mm, no joints in the consumer unit.

It's 40A (CGD don't do a 45A for some reason) for an instantaneous undersink water heater.

Thanks for the comments!
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No worries

That makes sense - I agree with you on the ferrules, easy to have stray strands - hadn't realise they were RCBO's, viewing on a small screen, thanks for the reply

Andy
 
Harwoodandy said:
Thanks for the input....
My question was to the OP - when viewing on my phone screen its rather difficult to tell, if it was more than obvious I wouldn't have asked would I. Perhaps you are easily confused? Perhaps I should just ask you in future?
Click to expand...
I wasn't trying to get your back up here and maybe you read my post the wrong way but I would appreciate you don't reply with an attitude as regardless whether it be to staff or any other members we frown on such responses, it helps no-one and usually drags the thread downhill, I asked because I was genuinely confused, and no, I'm not easily confused, been on this forum for over 7yrs and and an 11,000+ post count so I tend to have got the jist of how and why people post and respond, I even viewed it on my phone before I posted and it was very clear hence why I queried it. TBH I was rather expecting you to say you left your glasses somewhere or you were looking at a different pic by mistake as the thred is full of them.. that's why I commented to check you were seeing the same pic really.
You have answered what I asked and thats is all I was enquiring about, thankyou. :)
 
darkwood said:
I wasn't trying to get your back up here and maybe you read my post the wrong way but I would appreciate you don't reply with an attitude as regardless whether it be to staff or any other members we frown on such responses, it helps no-one and usually drags the thread downhill, I asked because I was genuinely confused, and no, I'm not easily confused, been on this forum for over 7yrs and and an 11,000+ post count so I tend to have got the jist of how and why people post and respond, I even viewed it on my phone before I posted and it was very clear hence why I queried it. TBH I was rather expecting you to say you left your glasses somewhere or you were looking at a different pic by mistake as the thred is full of them.. that's why I commented to check you were seeing the same pic really.
You have answered what I asked and thats is all I was enquiring about, thankyou. :)
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You started it :p:p:p
 
About time I made a contribution here, and this little gem from yesterday was asking for it. What's going on is:
* short T&E spurring off a socket on the inside
* connecting to a flex cable (there is actually a screwed connector under that tape, I was surprised not to find it just twist-&-taped) in the outside terminal
*from there clipped to the wall close to the ground without any protection
* and yes that's right, the flex is 2 core, NO EARTH, going to an outside socket!
IMG_20161017_114848[1].jpg IMG_20161017_114831[1].jpg IMG_20161017_114914[1].jpg
 
I'll probably get shot down as viewing on phone but.....

That looks like PVC covered Micc to me?, it has the shrouds over the glands? The black sleeving looks like the old BICC stuff 1 & 1.5mm and that looks like the seal just poking out from the box entry in the 3rd pic?
The box in pic 1 is tagged to earth so continuity would be through copper cable sheath if it was pyro.
Having said that there is no conductor to earth pin on socket so presumably relying on cover screws for earth, an earth tail seal would have done the job nicely.

Andy
 
Not sure if I have put this one up before, but clocked it on an Eicr last year. Nothing like using a product to it's full potential.
IMG_0515.JPG
 
Here is another classic, from an eicr, I also picked up the contract for all their work after I pointed out the problem of letting the plumber do the wiring and the electrician do the plumbing :eek:

IMG_0594.JPG
IMG_0595.JPG
 
Harwoodandy said:
I'll probably get shot down as viewing on phone but.....

That looks like PVC covered Micc to me?, it has the shrouds over the glands? The black sleeving looks like the old BICC stuff 1 & 1.5mm and that looks like the seal just poking out from the box entry in the 3rd pic?
The box in pic 1 is tagged to earth so continuity would be through copper cable sheath if it was pyro.
Having said that there is no conductor to earth pin on socket so presumably relying on cover screws for earth, an earth tail seal would have done the job nicely.

Andy
Click to expand...

I'd completely agree with you here; MICC.

The OP of this bit of thread could do with some further education on cable types.
 
Harwoodandy said:
I'll probably get shot down as viewing on phone but.....

That looks like PVC covered Micc to me?, it has the shrouds over the glands? The black sleeving looks like the old BICC stuff 1 & 1.5mm and that looks like the seal just poking out from the box entry in the 3rd pic?
The box in pic 1 is tagged to earth so continuity would be through copper cable sheath if it was pyro.
Having said that there is no conductor to earth pin on socket so presumably relying on cover screws for earth, an earth tail seal would have done the job nicely.

Andy
Click to expand...
Guess it's hard to tell from the picture, will work on keeping those hands steady, but that's definitely not micc, just a flex like you'd find on an appliance. I tested before taking that old crap off, sure enough no earth regardless of where I stuck the probe around that outside socket, and the IR... Thought for a moment that my tester wasn't working, tested for IR again using the continuity setting on my tester and got 1076 ohms between L and N. The IR for L-E and N-E was 134 mega ohms (if I remember right, something around there), so wasn't hard to guess where the bad L-N IR was from!

I'm guessing whoever did that old thing had seen it done properly with micc and thought dressing up with glands and shrouds just made it look pretty? Anyway not a big job to put a new socket (the right way up!) in place with conduit back to the inside socket. Not a perfect IR afterwards, 120 something mega ohms, but that's connected to the rest of the old circuit so I'll take it.



P.S. GMES that junction box is hilarious! :D
 
I totally don't have time to post this as I'm in the middle of fixing a breakdown but I just came on here for a quick break way from the job and post #708 & 715 fried my brain. How can that not be MI? Granted the few inches under the socket are a bit pale and flexy-looking but, er, stub slv over flex cores c/w PVC tag on one of them? Anyone advanced enough in the trade to have stub in their back pocket and to teach flex to stay straight as a die between P-clips, will know that a socket-outlet needs a CPC.

Pics of the flex and stuffing glands (I can see the hex under the shroud) or it didn't happen.

And 'IR' of 1076Ω is an appliance or a charred wreck. 230²/1076=50W, the heat of two average soldering irons. Nothing there got that hot, PVC cable would have been on fire and burnt through.
 
Can you see what's wrong guy lol,
some kitchen fitter had fix his sockets to the floor for some strange reason for his appliences. Then fitted his kitchen over the top of of them all before realising that he'd wired his sockets arse first. So instead of redoing his sockets he decided to swap line and neutral in the db.

20150131_090619.jpg
 
It all coming out. The rest of the farms in just as much of a mess, we have only just done a condition report.Idealey hell have the supply upgrade to 3 phase the we will go from there, but he's not to keen as electric board cost are rather substantial.
Would appreciate any surgestion if I can't get him to upgrade.
 
quote Tony Barnes "It all coming out. The rest of the farms in just as much of a mess, we have only just done a condition report.Idealey hell have the supply upgrade to 3 phase the we will go from there, but he's not to keen as electric board cost are rather substantial.
Would appreciate any surgestion if I can't get him to upgrade."

Looks like a split phase supply from an overhead line voltage between the 2 phases will probably be 480v.
Check voltage between the "phases" to confirm .
L1 to N+L2 to N = L1 to L2 its split phase and will be 480v (some 3 phase boards are only rated for 400- 415v)
Split phase is fed from a centre tapped transformer and conversion by the DNO will be cost prohibitive unless you get a few customers together.
 
Yes its split single phase and comes over on line TT system. To be honest I can't see him going for the upgrade so we may have to work with what we have got. Good point regarding the rating of the 3 phase boards.
Cheers
 
I believe MEM used to make a split phase board but not now, we could not find any DB with a rating higher than 415V last year, in the end we used MEM Exel Switches/ switch fuses which are rated 550V for the 480V bits, feeding single phase boards.
 
Found this when replacing a storage heater. This is what happens when you connect a 3.4KW heater to a 13A SFCU.
It had been cooking away for years, it only stopped working when the line conductor in the flex burnt off of the terminal.

20161030_183427.jpg


echo nsf.jpg


echo nsr.jpg
 
Sorry for the extra un-edited photo, could not attach or delete images properly, won't let me delete them in edit mode either.
 
freddo said:
Found this when replacing a storage heater. This is what happens when you connect a 3.4KW heater to a 13A SFCU.
It had been cooking away for years, it only stopped working when the line conductor in the flex burnt off of the terminal.
Click to expand...

Presumably it could have been fitted with a 20A DP switch instead?
 
Found during a T+I yesterday, extensions into a new 3ph DB. There is so much wrong in this photo, but most of the terminals are 2.5mm size, the conductors in the bottom are 4mm, some terminals have 2 conductors jammed in, heatshrink has been used to cover crimps but has been held in place with tape, there is 16mm in one end of the crimp and 10mm in the other, the blue conductors are tri-rated singles and are not fitted with ferrules,there is no top to the DB and so on.

echo extension hell.jpg
 
This is the first this DB has been inspected, it was fitted last year There are other problems in the DB itself with poor supply cable terminations, unsupported cables, undersized main earth conductor, grossly incorrect circuit labels, no RCD protection on any circuits, missing blanks, neutral and earth conductors incorrectly numbered... Yes we will be correcting the problems. The installation has a 2000A supply and around 90 DBs. We've started testing/inspecting a part of the installation, testing and repairs will continue in stages to the other parts over the next 4 years.
 
Oh dear! Is that box/rail earthed?
Heat shrink held in place with tape? lol! Not even the right coloured tape. Is that main earth joined under the tape as well?
Needs some grommet strip round that top as well

Think you're gonna be in that place for a while if the other 89 DB's are nearly as bad

Keep up the good work

PS
Bet that fcu was a bit smelly....
 
Bloody plumbers! Ripped this wiring out on Thursday, some of the worst heating system wiring I've ever seen. Look closely and you can see why. It's a good job the pipework was all copper with main bonding as the heating electrics had no earth connection. Some cpcs had been cut out and used for switched lines, even though spare insulated conductors were available. Total madness. The joint box was jammed behind some pipes in the airing cupboard. The supply was all wrong as well, fed from a SFCU the incoming and outgoing neutrals were in the same terminal, wired in .75 flex connected to a 30A 3036 fuse.

echo heat1.jpg


echo heat2.jpg
 
Does the artex covering help prevent any fire spreading?
 
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