Hob and hood on same circuit

[electricstar]

Hi There, I am hiring an electrician shortly but so far have received conflicting advice so looking for clarity before I spend my money.

Can a socket for a kitchen self circulating hood and under cabinet lights be on same circuit as hob according to UK regulations?

Any advice appreciated.

 

[Aaron b]

I can't see why this would be a problem providing it is sized for it and meets the requirements for ADS. I would personally want the hood on a fused spur and it will most likely be required in the manufactures literature. How are the cabinet lights going to be controlled?

 

[electricstar]

I can't see why this would be a problem providing it is sized for it and meets the requirements for ADS. I would personally want the hood on a fused spur and it will most likely be required in the manufactures literature. How are the cabinet lights going to be controlled?

Thanks for reply. The hood is quite small as it's a very small kitchen.

Bearing in mind I have vary little electrical knowledge, in a nutshell: There's already a vertical lead for the hood/light socket which is connected to the hob outlet (Installed by previous owner). There's also an isolator switch at a different location.

The cabinet lights are from Ikea which has some kind of transformer which will be plugged into the socket and can be switched on and off with a wireless dimmer.

 

[Aaron b]

You can have one double socket off a radial without a spur. Usually, that would be wired in 2.5mm cable.

If you protect it with a fused spur with a 13A fuse then you can have a load up to the fuse rating and only need 1.5mm cable, I don't think you are going to care if the circuit trips before the fuse blows so you wouldn't need to worry about coordinating the devices.

 

[electricstar]

You can have one double socket off a radial without a spur. Usually, that would be wired in 2.5mm cable.

If you protect it with a fused spur with a 13A fuse then you can have a load up to the fuse rating and only need 1.5mm cable, I don't think you are going to care if the circuit trips before the fuse blows so you wouldn't need to worry about coordinating the devices.

Given my lack of expertise with this stuff I better leave it with my electrician but really happy that it all seems doable without too much hassle so thanks for the input. Much appreciated.

 

[electricstar]

Given my lack of expertise with this stuff I better leave it with my electrician but really happy that it all seems doable without too much hassle so thanks for the input. Much appreciated.

Strange how I still seem to get conflicting advice from qualified electricians , wonder if anyone can shed some light on this before hiring.

As mentioned above we need to get a socket installed in kitchen. At the moment there's a lead available which is connected vertically to a hardwired socket. The cable used for the socket is 6mm cable. The vertical cable for the new socket is 2.5 mm.

The advice I've had is the 2.5 mm cable needs to be changed to 6 mm. Is that correct advice?

Many thanks

 

[DPG]

What MCB is feeding this cable?

 

[electricstar]

What MCB is feeding this cable?

Again bearing in mind I am new to all this.

We had a brand new fuse box installed 3 years ago by a registered electrician. The 6 mm cable from the hob hardwire box is connected to this fusebox which has its own switch, simply named 'hob'.

Is that what you meant?

Thanks

 

[brianmoooore]

The 'switch' labelled hob is actually a MCB or RCBO. All of these will have B (occasionally C or D) 6,16,20,32, 40 or 45 written on them.
What's on the one for the hob?

 

[electricstar]

The 'switch' labelled hob is actually a MCB or RCBO. All of these will have B (occasionally C or D) 6,16,20,32, 40 or 45 written on them.
What's on the one for the hob?

O.k thanks.

The hob switch has B32 written on it and next to it CPB32.

 

[electricstar]

The 'switch' labelled hob is actually a MCB or RCBO. All of these will have B (occasionally C or D) 6,16,20,32, 40 or 45 written on them.
What's on the one for the hob?

Given that the hob switch has B32 written on it, what are the implications? Would a 2.5 mm cable still need to be changed to 6 mm?

 

[brianmoooore]

A 2.5mm2 cable is acceptable from the cooker isolator to ONE single or double socket.

 

[electricstar]

A 2.5mm2 cable is acceptable from the cooker isolator to ONE single or double socket.

O.k thanks

 

[brianmoooore]

That assumes that the current drawn by the hob, after allowing for diversity, is no more than 27A, and that the 6.0mm2 cable is installed in such a way that it is rated at the diversified current drawn by the hob plus 5A

 

[electricstar]

That assumes that the current drawn by the hob, after allowing for diversity, is no more than 27A, and that the 6.0mm2 cable is installed in such a way that it is rated at the diversified current drawn by the hob plus 5A

O.k, let me ask a different question. Is there any harm in changing the cable to 6mm for the socket?

 

[brianmoooore]

No harm, but equally no point, if its just to a single socket point. The maximum demand from a 13A double socket is 20A, which is within the capacity of 2.5mm2.
Should add to my last post "and the hob circuit is protected by a 30mA RCD".

 

[electricstar]

No harm, but equally no point, if its just to a single socket point. The maximum demand from a 13A double socket is 20A, which is within the capacity of 2.5mm2.
Should add to my last post "and the hob circuit is protected by a 30mA RCD".

What about if it's a double socket?

 

[brianmoooore]

Regs make no distinction between a single and double socket. For design purposes, they're the same thing.

 

[electricstar]

Regs make no distinction between a single and double socket. For design purposes, they're the same thing.

That's great. Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.