Discuss How to mark conduit bender? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Good evening Gents

Om after some help and advice please on setting up a new conduit bender.
Im wanting to ask how to score a mark on the forming wheel to indicate bending points etc?

I usually do the way of doing a bend then offering up and trimming excess off but would like to learn the old school way of measuring exactly please and seen many formers with marks on for bending points and wondered how the find it out please!?

Thanks
 
2.5 x the diameter of the pipe. 20mm conduit 50mm mark. So this gives you the length to the back of the bend.

Sorry for sounding dumb but I’m not quite sure what you mean mate?
Ive seen people use hacksaw to mark Notch on the former wheel for back of bend etc!
Just wondered if you could please elaborate a bit more on what you mean and how to do it if li don’t mind?
 
@Leesparkykent I was going to say what you said but I knew it would not be understood. It is hard to explain the reference points in terms of that 50mm. To the OP I would say if you measure the length you need and mark your conduit, you would place that mark at a point which is equivalent to 90 degrees to the conduit in the pipe bender. There is a video on it under latest media. It really all depends on what kind of bend(s) you want to do. Look for "Back of Bend" on here through search. As a matter of interest if you look at the vid. you can see a bend to a box, the question is now, how are you going to screw the box/pipe together? You can imagine if you have a 90 degree bend you can't turn it around and around to screw it into the thread on the box and the box at the other end of the the bend. So how are you going to accommodate screwing in both ends?
 
2.5 x the diameter of the pipe. 20mm conduit 50mm mark. So this gives you the length to the back of the bend.

Eh? I have no idea what you mean by this?

For a 90 degree bend I just line the back of bend mark up with the front of the former, if you take the time to use a square to line it up you can get a perfectly accurate bend, if you do it by eye you can get within a mm or two.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Also is it important to have the conduit sat parallel to ground as sometimes the arm which supports conduit makes the conduit sit up on an angle! Hope that makes sense!!? Thanks again
[automerge]1577785595[/automerge]
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Also is it important to have the conduit sat parallel to ground as sometimes the arm which supports conduit makes the conduit sit up on an angle! Hope that makes sense!!? Thanks again
Forgot to also ask how much you take off the measurement for distance saddles and spacer saddles? Thanks
 
Last edited:
you can see a bend to a box, the question is now, how are you going to screw the box/pipe together? You can imagine if you have a 90 degree bend you can't turn it around and around to screw it into the thread on the box and the box at the other end of the the bend. So how are you going to accommodate screwing in both ends?

Longthread and coupler (aka runner)
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Also is it important to have the conduit sat parallel to ground as sometimes the arm which supports conduit makes the conduit sit up on an angle! Hope that makes sense!!? Thanks again
[automerge]1577785595[/automerge]

Forgot to also ask how much you take off the measurement for distance saddles and spacer saddles? Thanks

When your starting out it is better to take the time to get it all set up level and use a square to line your mark up with the former. Once you've been doing it a while you'll find yourself naturally starting to do it by eye and no longer need as much time spent on getting the perfect setup.

Spacer bars are around 3mmish and distance saddles around 6mm ish I think, but measure what ever you are using on site to make sure.
 
Good evening Gents

Om after some help and advice please on setting up a new conduit bender.
Im wanting to ask how to score a mark on the forming wheel to indicate bending points etc?

I usually do the way of doing a bend then offering up and trimming excess off but would like to learn the old school way of measuring exactly please and seen many formers with marks on for bending points and wondered how the find it out please!?

Thanks
Alan what kind of bender are you trying to use
 
Definitely set the bender up so that the conduit is level, that way you can put a magnetic spirit level with an adjustable bubble on the conduit. Dial in the angle you want, bend till the bubble is level, job done.
 
Alan what kind of bender are you trying to use

In the UK it will be this type
irwin-hilmor-cm35-pipe-bender_min_13135_P_1.jpg
 
@Leesparkykent I was going to say what you said but I knew it would not be understood. It is hard to explain the reference points in terms of that 50mm. To the OP I would say if you measure the length you need and mark your conduit, you would place that mark at a point which is equivalent to 90 degrees to the conduit in the pipe bender. There is a video on it under latest media. It really all depends on what kind of bend(s) you want to do. Look for "Back of Bend" on here through search. As a matter of interest if you look at the vid. you can see a bend to a box, the question is now, how are you going to screw the box/pipe together? You can imagine if you have a 90 degree bend you can't turn it around and around to screw it into the thread on the box and the box at the other end of the the bend. So how are you going to accommodate screwing in both ends?
VORTIGERN you can also use a 3 piece coupling or a union I don’t know what you call them to eliminate screwing it in
 
Never understood why formers don't come with a right angle on the rear radius to make lining up back of bend more accurate.

I mean you could go with a square but I just eye it for the sake of a few mm.
 
Never understood why formers don't come with a right angle on the rear radius to make lining up back of bend more accurate.

I mean you could go with a square but I just eye it for the sake of a few mm.
Nothing like ignoring the experts is there? they have obviously got the correct idea, if you chose to ignore it do it at your peril.
 
Nothing like ignoring the experts is there? they have obviously got the correct idea, if you chose to ignore it do it at your peril.
:eek:

There is as far between artisan and adequate as there is adequate and dog rough, the price reflects.

Can't imagine theres much call for artisan conduit installs but theres a lot for quick adequate ones.
 
:eek:

There is as far between artisan and adequate as there is adequate and dog rough, the price reflects.

Can't imagine theres much call for artisan conduit installs but theres a lot for quick adequate ones.
Didn't want to give you a disagree icon, but I do disagree with your thinking
 

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