I need help with an electric shower wire which is too short

[Umarhafiz]

We had our bathroom renovated about 10 years ago and the original builder had left the shower wire too short and i didnt bother to get it fixed right away as we had another shower in the new loft extension done by the same builder around the same time. A few years go by and i then decided to ask someone to have a look and suprisingly no one had a simple answer i dont know if the electricians in my area are no good or it genuinely is a difficult or risky thing to do. to this day i have not found anyone who wants to do it so i have come here to get a better idea of what i could do or what is the best option. The bathroom has been tiled and there is a bath tub under where the shower is meant to be. Sorry if ive not given enough information im not very clued up when it comes to bathroom wiring or any wiring really.

 

[Rockingit]

I think we need some more information here - what type of cable, where is it and how short is short?!

Some pics might help if you can post some.

 

[Spoon]

The best option is to replace the cable for a longer one from the shower isolator to the shower. This would possible mean removing tiles to get to the shower. But as the cable is too short to reach the shower now then it looks like tiles will have to be removed anyhow.
Is the shower fitted now?
What size shower?
What is on the other side of the wall where the shower is (or to be fitted)

 

[Rockingit]

The best option is to replace the cable for a longer one from the shower isolator to the shower. This would possible mean removing tiles to get to the shower. But as the cable is too short to reach the shower now then it looks like tiles will have to be removed anyhow.
Is the shower fitted now?
What size shower?
What is on the other side of the wall where the shower is (or to be fitted)

There is of course the possibility that the existing cable wasn't clipped inside it's short run inside a stud wall - in which case with a huge amount of luck and patience you can sometimes use the old one as a draw to pull in a new one.

 

[Umarhafiz]

I think we need some more information here - what type of cable, where is it and how short is short?!

Some pics might help if you can post some.

Will get some pics as soon as possible im not at home at the moment. Sorry.

 

[Umarhafiz]

The best option is to replace the cable for a longer one from the shower isolator to the shower. This would possible mean removing tiles to get to the shower. But as the cable is too short to reach the shower now then it looks like tiles will have to be removed anyhow.
Is the shower fitted now?
What size shower?
What is on the other side of the wall where the shower is (or to be fitted)

Shower has not been fitted and behind where the shower is meant to go is the outside of the house.

 

[Spoon]

Shower has not been fitted and behind where the shower is meant to go is the outside of the house.

As @Rockingit has mentioned, is it a solid wall?
Has an isolator been fitted?
What size cable?

 

[telectrix]

one way or another it can be sorted, but a site visit would be needed to ascertain the best way without dynamite excessive disruption. i could manage that, but it's right on the edge of my travelling distance.

 

[Umarhafiz]

 

[Rockingit]

looks to be an easy job to be honest! Chisel out some more of the block around the cable for access, three crimp n shrinks and job done.

 

[Umarhafiz]

looks to be an easy job to be honest! Chisel out some more of the block around the cable for access, three crimp n shrinks and job done.

What kind of crimps?

 

[Umarhafiz]

What kind of crimps?

Are they called crimp n shrinks?

 

[Umarhafiz]

Are they called crimp n shrinks?

Sorry if i sound dumb ?

 

[telectrix]

you would need 6.0mm insulated crimps (yellow ones). but they would need to be securely crimped as they will be carrying c. 40A, so must be as tight as a duck's arse. (I'm assuming 6mm cable from your pics ).

 

[Umarhafiz]

you would need 6.0mm insulated crimps (yellow ones). but they would need to be securely crimped as they will be carrying c. 40A, so must be as tight as a duck's arse. (I'm assuming 6mm cable from your pics ).

Ok thanks for the info

 

[littlespark]

The “shrink” part of crimp n shrink is heat shrink sleeving.

it goes around the crimped cables, and when heated will shrink and pull tight against cable and crimps, just for added safety. Much more robust than insulating tape.

it is a simple job for someone with the right tools. As mentioned, you could have 40A running through it, and you don’t want to be in the shower when that joint suddenly fails.

 

[telectrix]

freeze his goolies off when it goes cold.

 

[Umarhafiz]

The “shrink” part of crimp n shrink is heat shrink sleeving.

it goes around the crimped cables, and when heated will shrink and pull tight against cable and crimps, just for added safety. Much more robust than insulating tape.

it is a simple job for someone with the right tools. As mentioned, you could have 40A running through it, and you don’t want to be in the shower when that joint suddenly fails.

Ok that makes sense thank you

 

[Spoon]

You would also need to put some decent heatshrink around all the joints and both cables.

 

[loz2754]

That's 10mm twin and earth. Stranded 4mm CPC.

 

[Umarhafiz]

That's 10mm twin and earth. Stranded 4mm CPC.

So would need 10mm crimps not 6mm?

 

[littlespark]

Yes.... and they don’t come insulated, so definitely heat shrink over them

SEPARATELY

 

[loz2754]

10mm through crimps for the brown and blue. 4mm insulated yellow crimp for the CPC (bare earth conductor).
And a crimping tool appropriate for the type and size of each crimp.

 

[timhoward]

You also need to consider if It might actually be cheaper to get someone in to do it as you'd need:
-a short section of 10mm T+E (and probably have to buy more than you want)
-2 x 10mm crimps
-1 x insulated 4mm crimp
Heat shrinking in various sizes
6mm earth sleeving
+ Crimping tool if you don't have one

It all adds up!

 

[pc1966]

This is probably pushing DIY limits, as you will need the proper crimp tool and some means of heating the heat-shrink. An electric paint stripper gun can be used for that with great care as they can also melt PVC insulation and destroy it.

 

[loz2754]

And don't forget a multifunction tester to test the Zs and RCD trip times once the shower is installed.

 

[Umarhafiz]

You also need to consider if It might actually be cheaper to get someone in to do it as you'd need:
-a short section of 10mm T+E (and probably have to buy more than you want)
-2 x 10mm crimps
-1 x insulated 4mm crimp
Heat shrinking in various sizes
6mm earth sleeving
+ Crimping tool if you don't have one

It all adds up!

Yh i was thinking that as i also wouldnt know if ive crimped it properly and stuff like that anyone know how much i should be paying for a job like this?

 

[pc1966]

If you have space to put it in, and it is definitely away from any water, but you have some means of accessing it for any maintenance, then something like this junction box is a better bet:

60A Junction Box 3 Terminal White

A selected range of special purpose moulded and stainless steel accessories

www.cef.co.uk

If it were me and I could somehow get the cable in the roof space above it, then using something like that and a longer run of new wire down to the shower would be easier.

 

[littlespark]

Would it be an idea to fit the shower unit higher?
It might be simpler extending the water pipe up, than the cable down.

 

[loz2754]

Would it be an idea to fit the shower unit higher?
It might be simpler extending the water pipe up, than the cable down.

Good suggestion

 

[timhoward]

Yh i was thinking that as i also wouldnt know if ive crimped it properly and stuff like that anyone know how much i should be paying for a job like this?

You will get a variety of opinions on this!
Mine is that if you can find someone very local who doesn't charge more for 1st hour because it's local, it's less than an hours work to just extend the cable. £45 -£70 bracket.

Would it be an idea to fit the shower unit higher?
It might be simpler extending the water pipe up, than the cable down.

I wondered that earlier too. A John Guest coupler and away you go...

 

[Umarhafiz]

Would it be an idea to fit the shower unit higher?
It might be simpler extending the water pipe up, than the cable down.

Great idea how have i not thought of that already. So i would just need to make a chanel in the tile for the cable and just extend the water pipe instead which is much safer i assume.

 

[littlespark]

You’ll just need to chisel away enough brick away to get a push fit coupler over the pipe.
Don’t let any chips of brick enter the end of the pipe.

 

[Umarhafiz]

 

[Umarhafiz]

View attachment 85731

This is where the shower was meant to go

 

[loz2754]

Ahh. Looks like there's no headroom to go any higher. Back to plan A.

 

[timhoward]

Is left hand section designed for rear entry, and could you actually move it down?

 

[Umarhafiz]

Is left hand section designed for rear entry, and could you actually move it down?

You mean where the wires are meant to go in?

 

[Umarhafiz]

 

[Umarhafiz]

View attachment 85734View attachment 85735

1st pic is front 2nd pic is back of unit

 

[Umarhafiz]

Seems to be clipped in and dont see any other places it can clip into if needed to move

 

[Umarhafiz]

I was thinking what about cutting out the black plastic just below where the wires need to be inserted?

 

[littlespark]

I was thinking what about cutting out the black plastic just below where the wires need to be inserted?

I was just about to suggest that. It doesn’t affect the ip rating of the shower, the physical strength or a fixing hole.

It might though, cause an issue with any warranty claim in the future as it may be seen as unauthorised modification.

 

[Umarhafiz]

I was just about to suggest that. It doesn’t affect the ip rating of the shower, the physical strength or a fixing hole.

It might though, cause an issue with any warranty claim in the future as it may be seen as unauthorised modification.

Oh i dont care about warranty and i dont think it is still even under warranty as ive had the shower in storage for 10 years ?

 

[Umarhafiz]

Oh i dont care about warranty and i dont think it is still even under warranty as ive had the shower in storage for 10 years ?

And pretty sure was only 2 year warranty

 

[timhoward]

I agree with @littlespark. The shower will be about 45mm lower than the photo by the time the elbow is rotated and in place. If you trim a little plastic away on the left hand side I reckon you'll be ok.
If you are very close, you could consider putting 10mm bootlace long barrel ferules on the end which will give you an extra cm.

 

[Umarhafiz]

I agree with @littlespark. The shower will be about 45mm lower than the photo by the time the elbow is rotated and in place. If you trim a little plastic away on the left hand side I reckon you'll be ok.
If you are very close, you could consider putting 10mm bootlace long barrel ferules on the end which will give you an extra cm.

Lads thanks so much for all your help. I think cutting the plastic away will work i will update you on progress as i am trying to find my angle grinder to cut a chanel for the wire wish me luck

 

[timhoward]

Lads thanks so much for all your help. I think cutting the plastic away will work i will update you on progress as i am trying to find my angle grinder to cut a chanel for the wire wish me luck

Just don't cut through the wire now!!!

 

[littlespark]

Angle grinder???

junior hacksaw would do... or a Dremel?

 

[Umarhafiz]

Angle grinder???

junior hacksaw would do... or a Dremel?

I meant for the tile ?