Help! - Shower Pull Switch, wires too short!

[Bootneck73h]

Hi,

The shower pull chord switch has snapped at my mom’s home and having unscrewed the switch I discovered a horror show(see pic). So I’ve had cut the wires back to clean them up but having done so it’s left me with nothing reasonable to wire up the new switch.
There’s nothing left on the cable to pull through and access to the loft in this very old dwelling is going to be an epic so re-routing isn’t really on the table.
Could I use some SpliceLine in-line wire connectors to extend the wires and if so would the 32 amp ones cut it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[littlespark]

I hate pull cords just for this reason. Give me a wall mounted isolator anytime.

Take the switch off, take the pattress box down and cut out the hole out a bit... you might find the cable is just stuck a little and might pull spare down.
Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.

 

[GBDamo]

Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.

That's such a great solution, will remember that one.

 

[littlespark]

That's such a great solution, will remember that one.

Problem is, there could be a joist right above.
A little polyfilla might be required.

 

[mainline]

Also use a decent quality switch.

Crabtree Capital 50A 1-Way Pull Cord Switch White with Neon - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. 1-way DP with neon and mechanical indicator. Integral pattress for surface mounting. Can be mounted to a large circular conduit box. Terminals will accept up to 10mm² cable. Standard pull cord is 1.5m long, in white. For use with 25mm x 16mm trunking. Rated for...

www.screwfix.com

 

[GBDamo]

Problem is, there could be a joist right above.
A little polyfilla might be required.

Oh, guaranteed knowing my luck.

 

[Vortigern]

Use a 60A JB in loft, extend cable to either the pull switch or run down wall (in trunking ofc) to wall mounted switch?

 

[mainline]

I hate pull cords just for this reason. Give me a wall mounted isolator anytime.

Take the switch off, take the pattress box down and cut out the hole out a bit... you might find the cable is just stuck a little and might pull spare down.
Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.

There can be problems with getting a strong fix using a dry liner into either a plasterboard or lathe ceiling, end up reinforcing with cutting out some ply.

 

[nicebutdim]

There can be problems with getting a strong fix using a dry liner into either a plasterboard or lathe ceiling, end up reinforcing with cutting out some ply.

Main concern being the fact that it's going to support a pull switch with firm action.

 

[brianmoooore]

When this repair has been completed, preferably using a switch without a neon indicator, turn the switch on, and never turn it off again, unless someone is making a repair on the shower that requires its cover to be removed. It's an isolator for maintenance purposes.

 

[timhoward]

A further tip - when selecting a replacement switch, ensure it's orientated so that screwdriver access for terminals is from both sides, and NOT from the wall and front.
I wouldn't even try to fit it as pictured as you can't fit a screwdriver between the wall and terminals.

 

[R-fur]

And for future reference you can normally replace the cord without unscrewing the switch.

 

[7029 dave]

The idea in theory regarding dry line box is good, but will it be strong enough might pull the lot down or push the box through the ceiling when pushing the face plate up to the box.

 

[ferg]

It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.

 

[nicebutdim]

It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.

I still don't like it

 

[mainline]

It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.

The fact that it happens is enough to put it in the last resort bracket for me.

Dry liner boxes were not designed for that and would be dependent on the strength of the plaster, how good the plaster is fixed to the ceiling and where between the joists that the liner would be.

Also, there are unknowns that can happen at a later date, like a water leak.

I would rather use a noggin, drill a hole for cable and mount the switch properly.

If a flush switch is wanted, then use a metal back box fixed to the noggin.

 

[littlespark]

Metal boxes like to bite my hands. And those extra two fixing lugs are just a nuisance.

Nothing to stop you adding a noggin above a dry liner…. Just for extra hold

 

[mainline]

Metal boxes like to bite my hands. And those extra two fixing lugs are just a nuisance.

Nothing to stop you adding a noggin above a dry liner…. Just for extra

A coupe of screws though a plastic dry liner is never going to be as strong as a metal backbox.

fitting something that wasn’t intended for that use is always going to be a bit of a bodge.

Best way is to avoid pull cords I’ve seen lots with multi cords for fan, towel rail ,wall heater and light it looked like something out of the Adam’s family.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.

How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?

 

[DPG]

Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.

How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?

Don't think a kinetic switch will meet requirements for a shower isolator!

 

[Mike Johnson]

Whoops thought it was a light, reminder to self, read first post more than once, must do better.

Just looked and they do a 16amp model now, how long before they have a 32amp range?

 

[DPG]

Whoops thought it was a light, reminder to self, read first post more than once, must do better.

I've done the same before!

 

[nicebutdim]

Don't think a kinetic switch will meet requirements for a shower isolator!

It could pull in a contactor....


...anything to avoid a pull cord and drylining box combo

 

[mainline]

It could pull in a contactor....


...anything to avoid a pull cord and drylining box combo

Could always mount the switch in the roof space and pop the cord through a hole.

 

[timhoward]

Could always mount the switch in the roof space and pop the cord through a hole.

...anything to avoid a pull cord and drylining box combo

Could always run a gas pipe....

 

[mainline]

Could always run a gas pipe....
View attachment 112732

You know you're getting old when as a child you remember the bright light from a gas mantle.

 

[mainline]

Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.

I would think so as it's very common to have RCD protected circuits supplying switches, especially on a wall

How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?

They have their place, but I'm not a fan of kinetic in the respect of reliability compared to hardwired, if it uses electronics then It's going to fail at some point.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Knee jerk reaction as usual, the problem is In a bathroom, keep up mainline.

Kinetic switch's have proven to be reliable so far, had them in our place in France for a number of years, saved chasing down stone walls.

 

[pirate]

Quinetic amazing, but I'd never use for that application.
My preferred installation is to mount the isolator outside the bathroom. Bring the 10mm cable into a dual box, plenty of room for terminations, DP switch in one side, cable into the other "half"...easy to switch on/off and plenty of room to make terminations.

 

[mainline]

Knee jerk reaction as usual, the problem is In a bathroom, keep up mainline.

It does relate to having a switch in a bathroom keep up, especially with the regs

 

[Penguin]

Hi,

The shower pull chord switch has snapped at my mom’s home and having unscrewed the switch I discovered a horror show(see pic). So I’ve had cut the wires back to clean them up but having done so it’s left me with nothing reasonable to wire up the new switch.
There’s nothing left on the cable to pull through and access to the loft in this very old dwelling is going to be an epic so re-routing isn’t really on the table.
Could I use some SpliceLine in-line wire connectors to extend the wires and if so would the 32 amp ones cut it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

Oh dear,… As you mentioned it’s the loft above this ‘Pull Cord’ ISO then id certainly suggest getting above the pull cord and fitting a suitable 40/45amp JB and run a new T&E.

I fully commend my colleague who suggested cutting out and fitting a dry liner.
But as this an ‘Isolator Pull Cord’. I could imagine that within a number of operational pulls those feeble plastic wings will give way.???

If however the cables are routing down next to a joint then ‘Jog On’, cut and fit a dry liner, multi- tool out a bit of the joist above and as well as the plastic wings, also screw up into the remaining joist.

Hope this helps.

 

[Spaldingsparks]

Its A design Fault! The problem only became really bad when the manufacturers stopped putting 2 fixing screws on each terminal perhaps they could start doing that again, especially for 10mm cable the second screw helps to flatten the cores into a good connection and a good wriggle and re-tighten means the problem happens far less often but someone needs to design out the loose cable issue before we have to install metal Switches like the DBs

 

[nicebutdim]

Its A design Fault! The problem only became really bad when the manufacturers stopped putting 2 fixing screws on each terminal perhaps they could start doing that again, especially for 10mm cable the second screw helps to flatten the cores into a good connection and a good wriggle and re-tighten means the problem happens far less often but someone needs to design out the loose cable issue before we have to install metal Switches like the DBs

 

[mainline]

View attachment 112746

Same as the Crabtree, probably more that have twin terminal screws.

 

[Mikegh]

When this repair has been completed, preferably using a switch without a neon indicator, turn the switch on, and never turn it off again, unless someone is making a repair on the shower that requires its cover to be removed. It's an isolator for maintenance purposes.

There's a very small fire risk with the isolator on.
A shower installer said he sees it very occasionally

 

[brianmoooore]

There's a very small fire risk with the isolator on.
A shower installer said he sees it very occasionally

Fire risk is minimal when no current is being drawn. l Not much different from any other permanently live cable in a house.
Tracking could occur at the connector block inside the shower, especially if it's already been cooked by a poor connection and a bit of moisture's got in, but the RCD should deal with that before things get anywhere near ignition.
The fire risk is orders of magnitude more for poor connections in ceiling mounted 45A switches!

 

[nicebutdim]

Same as the Crabtree, probably more that have twin terminal screws.

Single screw terminal on Crabtree.

 

[mainline]

Single screw terminal on Crabtree.

Yes apparently they have stopped producing 2 terminal screw ones for some reason

 

[Spaldingsparks]

Single screw on Crabtree must be how they increase sales or is that to synicle

 

[RetiredNY]

"Value engineering."