Discuss IP 55 Enclosure from screwfix! code 33991 in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

HappyHippyDad

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I have just used 11 of these boxes with SWA terminations

They are awful and I dont want someone else to have the same problems I did.

They seem ok, quite sturdy and the price attracts you, however one or two of the screws snapped when doing up the front cover and then MANY more snapped when undoing to test. This leaves a snapped screw in the box which you either have to remove and rebore or provide a new box (both options being a right pain). This happened to 5 of the 11 boxes.

The reason I am writing is because screwfix is the biggest seller to electricians on this site (according to the poll). Screwfix themselves are great, but I would strongly recommend against this product.

IP55 Enclosure Grey 85 x 75 x 65mm | Weatherproof Enclosures | NoLinkingToThis
 
I always use Wiska boxes!

Haven't tried them Murdoch, what is the advantage of them? Is there anything different compared to other IP adaptable boxes? They look fairly similar to the IP box I usually use and am comfortable with :

IP65 Adaptable Box 93 x 93 x 55mm | Junction Boxes | NoLinkingToThis
 
Haven't tried them Murdoch, what is the advantage of them? Is there anything different compared to other IP adaptable boxes? They look fairly similar to the IP box I usually use and am comfortable with :

IP65 Adaptable Box 93 x 93 x 55mm | Junction Boxes | NoLinkingToThis

Give one a go and see what you think - they are about £3.50 each + VAT

They don't use screws for a start to hold the lids on!
 
must be heavy handed. i use the BG ones with no issues. at least the knockouts knock out without splitting the box, unlike some i;ve tried.
 
must be heavy handed. i use the BG ones with no issues. at least the knockouts knock out without splitting the box, unlike some i;ve tried.

+1 an you can always guarantee its your last box in stock as well :D

i find the wiska plastic/threads to be hard wearing haven't had any problems yet :D
 
I've used these for CCTV junction boxes next to the cameras on end or mid runs of conduit, thought they were ok but yes I agree the screws were slightly iffy but if you use the correct screwdriver it works better.
 
Never have liked BG but that's a lot of screws to just snap, you weren't using a combi drill or impact driver to tighten them were you? Either that or you've got forearms like Popeye

I tend to use the IMO din rail enclosures edmundsons sell never had any problems with them
 
must be heavy handed. i use the BG ones with no issues. at least the knockouts knock out without splitting the box, unlike some i;ve tried.

These arn't the ones with knockouts Tel, you have to drill these out with a hole saw. i've used the ones you mention before and liked them.
 
I've used these for CCTV junction boxes next to the cameras on end or mid runs of conduit, thought they were ok but yes I agree the screws were slightly iffy but if you use the correct screwdriver it works better.

Used a CK pozi size 2 and after one or two snapped I treated them like a beautiful woman and still they snapped!
 
I didn't have any snap myself but the issue is similar to thT of the bg outdoor sockets, the screws could do with being improved. I use a flat head not to thick but the full width of the screw, works best.
 
TBF HHD the image you posted had knockouts.

Sorry Ferg, when I say knockouts I mean ones you can just give a 'knock' and out they come, BG do these I think. The BG ones (as in the link) you have to drill.
 
Used a CK pozi size 2 and after one or two snapped I treated them like a beautiful woman and still they snapped!

I'm sure you will tell me off for teaching a granny to suck eggs...

But are you sure you are not cross threading the screws?

Either way lesson learned..

Buy something decent from your local wholesalers that you trust.
 
I'm sure you will tell me off for teaching a granny to suck eggs...

But are you sure you are not cross threading the screws?

Either way lesson learned..

Buy something decent from your local wholesalers that you trust.

Nope, threads wern't crossed. Judging from the other reviewson the screwfix site it seems to be a common fault with them (albeit only 3 reviews). The only reason I ignored the reviews is because I had used a couple in the past without problem.
 
Sorry Ferg, when I say knockouts I mean ones you can just give a 'knock' and out they come, BG do these I think. The BG ones (as in the link) you have to drill.


Fair point I didn't look properly.

I thought they were like the MK weather.... kit.
I'm sure BG do them to where they are more Push outs than knock outs.

Basically an insert with an O ring.

Going back to my previous post, if you are going to go to the effort of using a 20mm holesaw anyway you may as well buy decent and cheap adaptable boxes from your local wholesaler.
 
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i never use a\ holesaw on plastic. takes ages to get the partly melted crud out of the holesaw. use cone cutters every time.
 
I always use a holesaw on plastic and always take ages to get the partly melted crud out of the holesaw :)

Thanks for the tip Tel :)
 
i never use a\ holesaw on plastic. takes ages to get the partly melted crud out of the holesaw. use cone cutters every time.
I got a similar set to this for around the same price

avyna7yd.jpg
 
I used it previously in engineering job so took it along in industrial jobs I mostly use it when I use holesaws , which to be honest is usually on plastic as I'll use punches for any glands I put in a metal enclosure as the hole is always perfect with virtually no burrs
 
I used it previously in engineering job so took it along in industrial jobs I mostly use it when I use holesaws , which to be honest is usually on plastic as I'll use punches for any glands I put in a metal enclosure as the hole is always perfect with virtually no burrs
what punches are you talking about? do they work in stainless?
 
"Q max sheet metal punches" is one make can't put up a link or pic sorry but they're on ebay 20mm approx £6
I've got a set 20-22.5-25-30-40-50 mm
I think you could use them on stainless but only thin gauge like on a db otherwise you'd ruin the cutting edges
 
If you've not seen them before you drill a pilot hole then run a 10mm/13mm drill ,the punches are in two halves, separate them one end has a screw which goes thru the hole screw on the other side and tighten with a hex key/ratchet with hex socket, until it cuts thru and drops out
Its a bit slower but you get a perfect hole and they last for years!
Ps don't forget to remove the slug as my old apprentice did, he complained it was jammed .......never removed the slugs 5 of them
I just said "where did you think the metal from the holes had gone to?"
 
If you've not seen them before you drill a pilot hole then run a 10mm/13mm drill ,the punches are in two halves, separate them one end has a screw which goes thru the hole screw on the other side and tighten with a hex key/ratchet with hex socket, until it cuts thru and drops out
Its a bit slower but you get a perfect hole and they last for years!
Ps don't forget to remove the slug as my old apprentice did, he complained it was jammed .......never removed the slugs 5 of them
I just said "where did you think the metal from the hole had gone to?"
ill have a look, we tend to put at least 4 2" bushes between our headers and the panel
 
I love them they are slower to use but you get a perfect hole everytime, also if the pilot hole is slightly off you can run a bigger drill thru and move the punch where you want it
 
If you have to line something like trunking or a sub board up just drill the small pilot butt up the two items and mark ,drill , punch and it'll be spot on for bushes etc
 

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