Discuss Kitchen - full rewire in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Greetings everyone

We are rewiring a house and have reached the kitchen.

We have run a 2.5mm cable from consumer unit which will connect as ring for over worktop sockets, and in the same ring we plan to run spurs (switched and fused) for:

1. washing machine
2. dishwasher
3. boiler
4. gas hob spark
5. extractor hood
6. cooker (not on the same ring, but on separate 6mm cable run from consumer unit)

Since the kitchen is empty (no installed units wall units/cabinets) we have plenty of space and want to make a tidy job.

My questions are:

1. Is it OK to have spurs for all listed items above i.e. should we remove anything and have it straight on the ring?
2. We plan to install all switches in one place under worktop (no cabinet will be installed here, access will be very easy) instead of having switches near appliances. Should we chase and dig the switches into the walls, or have them surface mounted. (what is legal requirement)
3. Switches would be about 2.5 meters from all appliances, but very easily accessed. Is this ok?
4. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated

Many thanks in advance!
 
Greetings everyone

We are rewiring a house and have reached the kitchen.

We have run a 2.5mm cable from consumer unit which will connect as ring for over worktop sockets, and in the same ring we plan to run spurs (switched and fused) for: 1 2.5mm cable or 2?

1. washing machine
2. dishwasher
3. boiler
4. gas hob spark
5. extractor hood
6. cooker (not on the same ring, but on separate 6mm cable run from consumer unit)

Since the kitchen is empty (no installed units wall units/cabinets) we have plenty of space and want to make a tidy job.

My questions are:

1. Is it OK to have spurs for all listed items above i.e. should we remove anything and have it straight on the ring?
2. We plan to install all switches in one place under worktop (no cabinet will be installed here, access will be very easy) instead of having switches near appliances. Should we chase and dig the switches into the walls, or have them surface mounted. (what is legal requirement)surface mount will look lie a council bodge.
3. Switches would be about 2.5 meters from all appliances, but very easily accessed. Is this ok?hope the appliances have long leads
4. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated

Many thanks in advance!

fitting FCUs ( fused connection units ) is a bad idea. you'll have 2 x 13A fused in series, 1 in the FCU and 1 in the appliance plug. better to fit 20A D/P switches, either as separate units, or in a 4/5way grid switch assembly. either way I'd run a ring final for the appliances mentioned and maybe a separate circuit for worktop appliances ( kettle/toaster etc.).
 
Greetings everyone

We are rewiring a house and have reached the kitchen.

We have run a 2.5mm cable from consumer unit which will connect as ring for over worktop sockets, and in the same ring we plan to run spurs (switched and fused) for:

1. washing machine
2. dishwasher
3. boiler
4. gas hob spark
5. extractor hood
6. cooker (not on the same ring, but on separate 6mm cable run from consumer unit)

Since the kitchen is empty (no installed units wall units/cabinets) we have plenty of space and want to make a tidy job.

My questions are:

1. Is it OK to have spurs for all listed items above i.e. should we remove anything and have it straight on the ring?
2. We plan to install all switches in one place under worktop (no cabinet will be installed here, access will be very easy) instead of having switches near appliances. Should we chase and dig the switches into the walls, or have them surface mounted. (what is legal requirement)
3. Switches would be about 2.5 meters from all appliances, but very easily accessed. Is this ok?
4. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated

Many thanks in advance!
Hi and welcome, and a Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Your post is a little confusing when you say you have ran a 2.5mm2 cable and intend connecting it as a Ring in your new kitchen, there are others on the forum who will be able to advise you on the latest methods of connecting appliances, I personally have not done any Kitchen rewires for a long time, so my methods will/may be outdated, but the ring you intend to make, can you explain how, with only one 2.5mm2 cable from your CU? Hope this question does not cause you any offence, it is a genuine question which does cause a little concern to me, as the kitchen is a high consumer of electricity, and a radial circuit in 2.5mm2 cable may be under estimating the consumption a little, good luck with your rewire anyway.
 
would help to know if you have appropriate test instruments or will it be the bang test?
 
Either it's sloppy writing, saying "a 2.5mm cable" or the OP really has no idea what they are doing.

Similarly listing "6. cooker (not on the same ring … " though at least realising this is a separate circuit.
 
fitting FCUs ( fused connection units ) is a bad idea. you'll have 2 x 13A fused in series, 1 in the FCU and 1 in the appliance plug. better to fit 20A D/P switches, either as separate units, or in a 4/5way grid switch assembly. either way I'd run a ring final for the appliances mentioned and maybe a separate circuit for worktop appliances ( kettle/toaster etc.).

Thank you for prompt reply.

Sorry, I wasn't clear in my post. The cable (2.5 twin & earth) will be returning to C/U to complete the ring.

The cooker (6 mm) will be radial circuit.

2. We plan to install all switches in one place under worktop (no cabinet will be installed here, access will be very easy) instead of having switches near appliances. Should we chase and dig the switches into the walls, or have them surface mounted. (what is legal requirement)surface mount will look lie a council bodge.


I agree, but I read here that it should be surface mounted.


 
you can mount sockets surface if behind litche base units where the are not see. however, if yo fit anything behind appliances e.g. washing machine etc> you' the find that the appliance will not fit. they're buggers for having no clearance behind, unlees you fit a 610mm worktop instead of the standard 600mm
 
you say WE are rewiring a house....is that WE as in an electrical company or WE as in me and my mrs?.....if its the first then STOP because you have no clue......and if its the second then STOP because you have to have a clue by law.

Because WE don't have a clue, we were just issued a new install certificate by electrician with a comment of a "good and tidy" job.

There is nothing worse than arrogance.
 
Because WE don't have a clue, we were just issued a new install certificate by electrician with a comment of a "good and tidy" job.

There is nothing worse than arrogance.
i don't understand. your OP says you have run cables and asks for advice. now you say a spark has issued an installation certificate. the two are not compatible or sensible.

it's a bit like saying you have a medical problem with your elephant, what do i do?
then saying vet has treated him and he's OK
 
Because WE don't have a clue, we were just issued a new install certificate by electrician with a comment of a "good and tidy" job.

There is nothing worse than arrogance.

Glad you got it all sorted mate.
If you knew an electrician was going to do a cert for this work then how come you just didn't ask him/her the questions? After all they are putting their name to the work..
 
you say WE are rewiring a house....is that WE as in an electrical company or WE as in me and my mrs?.....if its the first then STOP because you have no clue......and if its the second then STOP because you have to have a clue by law.
 
you say WE are rewiring a house....is that WE as in an electrical company or WE as in me and my mrs?.....if its the first then STOP because you have no clue......and if its the second then STOP because you have to have a clue by law.
What Law?
 
Because WE don't have a clue, we were just issued a new install certificate by electrician with a comment of a "good and tidy" job.

There is nothing worse than arrogance.
You'll get a better response if you post a copy of the cert you refer to (names and addresses deleted). Otherwise nobody will believe you are doing this correctly and in accordance with Part P, which is a legal requirement.
 

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