Q

quackchung

Hyundai i10 (2011)

Hi

PROBLEM
I had a problem a few months back, where I couldn't start the car. I used my spare key & fob and all was well again. This morning the spare set wouldn't open the doors, although a light was emitting on the fob. I changed the batteries in the 2 fobs, but still no joy with both, even when using the keys to unlock the doors. There are no radio towers or interference to block the signal, nor particularly cold either.

CHECKS
Luckily enough, the tailgate was open! So I got in and set all the doors lock/unlock buttons to "unlock" (red mark) so I wasn't locked out again.

The ignition wasn't lighting up the dash, and also the radio wouldn't come on even without key in. (I only used one set of keys, as you're not supposed to have 2 fobs in the car when starting I believe. But I did use the 2 later when I knew nothing was working though)

I checked the battery and it showed 14 volt'ish.

SUMMARY
I'm not an auto electrician, but my guess would be that there must be a main fuse, or broken lead somewhere. If immobilised, should the radio still come on? Main fuse would be a nice simple fix I suppose. It's dark now and I'm not so mobile, so I found it difficult to check any of the fuses under the steering wheel. I did check the panel under the bonnet and all was good, never checked the big square fuses/electronic switches? though.

QUESTION
I know it could be a multitude of problems, but it would be great if indeed someone could at least confirm I'm on the right track and dismiss fobs etc. or even have better advice for myself?

As with most, money is very tight, and I would be relieved if I could fix this issue myself.
Thanks for reading.
 
Did you measure 14V on the terminal posts , or the clamps ?
(13.7 probably more like)
--winters nearly here -Vaseline time-!-
 
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Have you got a decent earth from the battery to the engine and chassis .
You will get a voltage across the battery posts , but not necessarily to the components if the main earth is poor or broken.
Try from the positive post to the engine block and a decent chassis earth.
 
All sorted now thanks. Was reading the meter wrong and the battery was actually dead after the lights were left on. They usually go off automatically when the key is out! Anyhow after a recharge all is well. Must remember to turn off lights. Still don't know what could've caused this glitch, but I'm hoping it doesn't get any worse!!! Thanks guys.
 
my battery on the Hiace is getting a bit lethargic on cold mornings, it came off my last van ( nissan crap ), when it was scrapped 4 years ago, so can't complain. just bought and fitted a Yuasa 72AH. courtsey of C.E.S. £78.00. funnily is that all the suppliers have a 90AH speccd for the Hiace, but it's 2" too big to fit.
 
my battery on the Hiace is getting a bit lethargic on cold mornings, it came off my last van ( nissan crap ), when it was scrapped 4 years ago, so can't complain. just bought and fitted a Yuasa 72AH. courtsey of C.E.S. £78.00. funnily is that all the suppliers have a 90AH speccd for the Hiace, but it's 2" too big to fit.

I had similar non-matching size problems with my Yaris battery from Euro Car Parts, the one on their system was not only the wrong size but the terminals were switched about, so I had to into their back area with mine and find one to match. Maybe it's a Toyota thing?!?
 
same problem with a replacement ignition lock. the only one listed has the boss round the key too big so the transponder coil won't fit round it. as for batteries, the ones with the + on the left are a rare beast these days. my problem was the listed 90AH was 300mm l-r, and the tray is 250mm.
 

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No power on Hyundai i10 (2011)
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