Tightening locknuts with hammer and screwdriver-dog rough or not?

[nicebutdim]

That's why I use a ring spanner they are capable of multiple position fitting onto the nut and turning a small distance serration by serration unlike an open ended spanner, or use a Wera Joker combination ratchet spanner, 30deg turn should be capable enough.

I get the point you're making, but sometimes there isn't sufficient space.

I don't like chisels being used on a lock ring, but understand that occasionally there is no other option.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

I often find I have to use a chisel and hammer to tighten locknuts. I see no harm in it, and often nothing else will work in the space available. Reading the comments here, some people seem very much against it. Could anyone explain what harm might come as a result of using this technique?

 

[DPG]

I often find I have to use a chisel and hammer to tighten locknuts. I see no harm in it, and often nothing else will work in the space available. Reading the comments here, some people seem very much against it. Could anyone explain what harm might come as a result of using this technique?

Damaging the flat sides of the nut, making it difficult for a proper spanner to fit on. Depending how heavy-handed you are of course!

 

[nicebutdim]

I often find I have to use a chisel and hammer to tighten locknuts. I see no harm in it, and often nothing else will work in the space available. Reading the comments here, some people seem very much against it. Could anyone explain what harm might come as a result of using this technique?

It's a necessary evil, but not one that should be used if an alternative exists (IMO).

 

[Mike Johnson]

Just a thought, if you can't get the proper tool in to do the job is the enclosure or work just carried out fit for purpose.

 

[nicebutdim]

Just a thought, if you can't get the proper tool in to do the job is the enclosure or work just carried out fit for purpose.

A very good customer needs a supply taken from a perfectly good, but badly glanded board. Do you a). refuse the job because you're going to have to chisel a locknut, or b). do the job and live with the fact you had to chisel a locknut in a job which is otherwise perfectly satisfactory?

This customer may account for hundreds of thousands of pounds of your annual turnover and not everything in life is box fresh or perfect.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Okay, so no real worries then. I'm not concerned about being unable to get a spanner on the nut after using the chisel, as I've already established that a spanner isn't up to the job. It's a practical solution to a practical problem and I'm surprised that so many here feel so strongly against it.

 

[Eric12]

Sometimes its easier to install the gland without any cable attached to it first. then you can tighten the gland while holding the lock nut; then install the cable. Just stating the obvious as sure you guys know that already

 

[pc1966]

It's a practical solution to a practical problem and I'm surprised that so many here feel so strongly against it.

I think the concern is it becoming the taught "first option" instead of the last resort if access, or previous damage, means you really have little other options.

 

[davesparks]

Sometimes its easier to install the gland without any cable attached to it first. then you can tighten the gland while holding the lock nut; then install the cable. Just stating the obvious as sure you guys know that already

Isn't that the normal way of doing it?

 

[davesparks]

I often find I have to use a chisel and hammer to tighten locknuts. I see no harm in it, and often nothing else will work in the space available. Reading the comments here, some people seem very much against it. Could anyone explain what harm might come as a result of using this technique?

I don't think it's possible to gauge whether it is actually properly tight or not when hitting it with a hammer and chisel.

The gland and locknut form an electrical connection in the CPC of the circuit, is it really acceptable to make protective conductor connections with a hammer and chisel?

 

[davesparks]

A very good customer needs a supply taken from a perfectly good, but badly glanded board. Do you a). refuse the job because you're going to have to chisel a locknut, or b). do the job and live with the fact you had to chisel a locknut in a job which is otherwise perfectly satisfactory?

c) use an earthing nut instead of the locknut and tighten the gland down into it as they have teeth to grip the enclosure.
d) use an adaptable box or conduit box to gland the cable into.
e) you could probably do something creative with a pair of Conlok adaptors and a short bit of conduit.
f) gland it to the side or bottom of the board, it sounds like the install is already a mess so an ugly cable bit of cable routing probably won't be too bad.

 

[rewireIT]

Sometimes its easier to install the gland without any cable attached to it first. then you can tighten the gland while holding the lock nut; then install the cable. Just stating the obvious as sure you guys know that already

In my experience it's usually a ballache to get the armourings on the gland doing it this way depending on how the cable is run in. Spiralling open the armours and then having to manipulate the cable into place often means they no longer sit right and some get stuck inside the gland instead of sitting outside it.

 

[nicebutdim]

c) use an earthing nut instead of the locknut and tighten the gland down into it as they have teeth to grip the enclosure.
d) use an adaptable box or conduit box to gland the cable into.
e) you could probably do something creative with a pair of Conlok adaptors and a short bit of conduit.
f) gland it to the side or bottom of the board, it sounds like the install is already a mess so an ugly cable bit of cable routing probably won't be too bad.

There are often many means of achieving the same ends and, as I've previously stated, taking a hammer and chisel to the lock nut would be a last resort.

Sometimes an earthing nut isn't available in the required size - unfortunately they aren't widely stocked by local wholesalers, even in small sizes.

Often glanding into something other than the DB is a viable option, but sometimes not.

As you have stated, gland and locknut form an electrical connection. While I've become increasingly confident about the use of Conlok, it should be remembered that the electrical connection depends on a 2mm grub screw.

Glanding to parts of the board (other than the gland plate) would be a usual enough option, but sometimes space constraints mean it isn't possible to get the cable in question to anywhere other than a busy gland plate.

For clarity, and repeating a point I've made several times already, I don't like taking a chisel to locknuts but on some occasions it can be the only option and is a viable (yet rough) method of securing a tight connection between gland and plate.

 

[cliffed]

We“ve all done it..I got told off years ago for doing it..still remains in my head…may ask for some compensation…Mental Health & more in this PC World …certainly not been the same since… bolster & hammer these days

 

[Mike Johnson]

We get so many comments on here about following manufacturers instructions, I wonder what the manufacturer would think about using a hammer and screwdriver/chisel/bolster on their nuts, Oh Matron.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Exactly , we carry a multi thousand pound arsenal of tools yet when it comes to a lock nut we suggest smashing it with a hammer / mallet and a screwdriver / chisel, of which not one of these tools was designed to tighten up or untighten a locking ring / nut...

I still think some sort of grub screw connection for conduit and glands / bushes would be way way simpler

 

[westward10]

Trouble with modern lock nuts is they are so thin. Years ago and I'm not sure if they are still available but you could get quite thick lock nuts which you could actually get a purchase on.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Trouble with modern lock nuts is they are so thin. Years ago and I'm not sure if they are still available but you could get quite thick lock nuts which you could actually get a purchase on.

The problem seems to be that most on here are saying, because of space restraints they can't get a tool on the nut to tighten it. I can't think that any manufacturer would put a unit on the market that is so badly designed the knock outs are too close together to allow tightening of the locknuts with a tool.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

I can't think that any manufacturer would put a unit on the market that is so badly designed the knock outs are too close together to allow tightening of the locknuts with a tool.

Absolutely, as long as that tool happens to be a chisel.