What test to carry out before consumer unit change?

[ppelec100]

What test should I carry out before changing a consumer unit to ensure that it is eligible for one?
I’m guessing R1 + R2 to make sure it has cpc at circuits. Say for lighting do I check every single light fitting or...?
IR test I’m assuming of course so there are no trips.

I’m not a testing qualified just installation. So this info will help me out for a CU coming up. I will be getting someone to test it and cert it afterwards.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Dustydazzler]

You can test at the furthest point if you can work out which it is , or I sometimes just do a bit of random testing at some of the more easy accessible points

As for IR , yes it is often wise to do some IR testing to avoid and tripping issues later

 

[ppelec100]

You can test at the furthest point if you can work out which it is , or I sometimes just do a bit of random testing at some of the more easy accessible points

As for IR , yes it is often wise to do some IR testing to avoid and tripping issues later

Thank you.
I forgot to mention end to ends for ring circuits. Do I need to do the figure of 8 test step 2&3 of ring continuity) too, or is this just for new installations for polarity check?
Are these test sufficient for a consumer unit change?

 

[pc1966]

Remember the checks before a CU change are really about establishing what extra work is likely to be involved in making the installation safe & reliable overall. After the CU change you have all of the usual tests to be done anyway, but you really want to be able to quote the customer a realistic price first and explain why so they don't get a nasty surprise later and you get a reputation for not sticking to the expected quote.

So global IR (L+N to E) is a good and simple one:

• If above a couple of Mohm at 500V all is fine
• If not, but OK at 250V probably a SPD in some extension cable - not a big risk.
• If a few tens of kOhm it might be a RCD socket outlet or similar, but it could be more trouble like soaked/trashed cable or wet junction box.
• If few ohms or less then a N - E short that has to be found and fixed

Checking CPC continuity is another important point:

• For any RFC the end-end loop R is a very good start, though does not prove any spurs are correct, but otherwise high confidence
• For any radial a R1+R2 check at furthest point is good test (for radial sockets again not proving any other branches are OK)
• Light circuits - always a worry as pre-1966 wiring might lack CPCs (see BPG#1 for info on that case) or sadly more likely is some muppet did not connect up CPCs thinking lights were double-insulated or similar. Again R1+R2 test or wander lead to a couple of light fittings will find if serious issue or not.

Checking the means of earthing / supply Ze is important so any assumptions on design values for final Zs, etc, are acceptable.

Last but by no means least, the danger of linked circuits:

• The issue of a "borrowed neutral" between light circuits, typically a badly implemented up/down system. Not only dangerous but going to trip any RCBO/RCD.
• A cross-linked pair of RFC (where two RFC are in one giant loop fed from two MCBs) which is a major safety risk as well since 64A equivalent breaker way above 2.5mm cable's safe ratings

 

[Dustydazzler]

Thank you.
I forgot to mention end to ends for ring circuits. Do I need to do the figure of 8 test step 2&3 of ring continuity) too, or is this just for new installations for polarity check?
Are these test sufficient for a consumer unit change?

I do end to end on all rings
I do IR tests where possible
and R1 R2 at easy positions

Ze
Zs
RCD trip times

personally don't bother with figure 8

 

[Petej999]

What test should I carry out before changing a consumer unit to ensure that it is eligible for one?
I’m guessing R1 + R2 to make sure it has cpc at circuits. Say for lighting do I check every single light fitting or...?
IR test I’m assuming of course so there are no trips.

I’m not a testing qualified just installation. So this info will help me out for a CU coming up. I will be getting someone to test it and cert it afterwards.

Thanks for any help.

What test should I carry out before changing a consumer unit to ensure that it is eligible for one?
I’m guessing R1 + R2 to make sure it has cpc at circuits. Say for lighting do I check every single light fitting or...?
IR test I’m assuming of course so there are no trips.

I’m not a testing qualified just installation. So this info will help me out for a CU coming up. I will be getting someone to test it and cert it afterwards.

Thanks for any help.

Would you know and understand the results if you were told how and what tests to do?

 

[ppelec100]

Remember the checks before a CU change are really about establishing what extra work is likely to be involved in making the installation safe & reliable overall. After the CU change you have all of the usual tests to be done anyway, but you really want to be able to quote the customer a realistic price first and explain why so they don't get a nasty surprise later and you get a reputation for not sticking to the expected quote.

So global IR (L+N to E) is a good and simple one:

• If above a couple of Mohm at 500V all is fine
• If not, but OK at 250V probably a SPD in some extension cable - not a big risk.
• If a few tens of kOhm it might be a RCD socket outlet or similar, but it could be more trouble like soaked/trashed cable or wet junction box.
• If few ohms or less then a N - E short that has to be found and fixed

Checking CPC continuity is another important point:

• For any RFC the end-end loop R is a very good start, though does not prove any spurs are correct, but otherwise high confidence
• For any radial a R1+R2 check at furthest point is good test (for radial sockets again not proving any other branches are OK)
• Light circuits - always a worry as pre-1966 wiring might lack CPCs (see BPG#1 for info on that case) or sadly more likely is some muppet did not connect up CPCs thinking lights were double-insulated or similar. Again R1+R2 test or wander lead to a couple of light fittings will find if serious issue or not.

Checking the means of earthing / supply Ze is important so any assumptions on design values for final Zs, etc, are acceptable.

Last but by no means least, the danger of linked circuits:

• The issue of a "borrowed neutral" between light circuits, typically a badly implemented up/down system. Not only dangerous but going to trip any RCBO/RCD.
• A cross-linked pair of RFC (where two RFC are in one giant loop fed from two MCBs) which is a major safety risk as well since 64A equivalent breaker way above 2.5mm cable's safe ratings

Thank you for this very in depth answer!

I did some fault finding to try find a nuisance trip of the house which I will be changing the CU. I’ve narrowed it down to fridge freezer, fish tank filter or pump as I put them in an extension lead for the time being on a socket fed by the RCD that wasn’t tripping and it tripped same day.

It is currently a RCD split board installed by Mr bodger. I’ve recommend they get it redone and changed to RCBO board. They also use so many extensions. Every socket has a fully occupied extension lead minimum 4 plugs. Anyways I did IR test with everything unplugged and it was clear.

Will need to do R1 + R2 tests tho.

I did end to end and like you mentioned about the split ring being fed by 2x 32a MCB that’s exactly what I found. I also found another ring which had been split but this ring had one of its LNE leg just connector blocked floating inside the CU.

Can I just check the Ze or does Zs need to be carried out too before the CU change?

When finding out if there are borrowed neutrals, I’m guessing I would check continuity between neutral and other neutral conductors at the board. For example disconnect 1 neutral and test between that conductor and the neutral bars?

 

[ppelec100]

I do end to end on all rings
I do IR tests where possible
and R1 R2 at easy positions

Ze
Zs
RCD trip times

personally don't bother with figure 8

RCD trip times would be done after of course right?

 

[Dustydazzler]

RCD trip times would be done after of course right?

YEs sorry

First 3 dead

Last 3 live

 

[ppelec100]

Would you know and understand the results if you were told how and what tests to do?

Yes I would. I learnt testing as part of my apprenticeship. If I don’t understand I would do some reading in the books or some research about it. I feel pretty confident but even so I’m hesitant sometimes and like to verify and gain further info from other more skilled and experienced electricians.

R1 + R2 I would get a reading if there is continuous cpc, would operate the light switch to get the reading and off to remove it. If I get no reading then there’s no continuous earth/ break somewhere.

IR test between conductors of say L to N would mean there is a short between them somewhere.

 

[pc1966]

Thank you for this very in depth answer!

I did some fault finding to try find a nuisance trip of the house which I will be changing the CU. I’ve narrowed it down to fridge freezer, fish tank filter or pump as I put them in an extension lead for the time being on a socket fed by the RCD that wasn’t tripping and it tripped same day.

Having a current clamp meter that goes down to 1mA or so is useful here to find out if it is an accumulation of AC leakage from capacitance (so you see around 10mA-ish all the time) or a fault (usually near zero but something occasionally spike enough to trip it).

This is good value for that job (but like most affordable ones, AC-only):

https://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp-pro/mp780050/mini-leakage-current-tester/dp/IN08364

Basically you clamp L&N of each circuit to see what is leaking. Clamping the CPC can give bizarre high readings due to parallel return paths in TN-C-S cases.

It is currently a RCD split board installed by Mr bodger. I’ve recommend they get it redone and changed to RCBO board. They also use so many extensions. Every socket has a fully occupied extension lead minimum 4 plugs. Anyways I did IR test with everything unplugged and it was clear.

Probably too much on one RCD.

More sockets are always handy if there is space to fit them. Or at the very least having good quality extension blocks for the likes of TV/AV/Hi-Fi and IT stuff.

Olson Electronics (London based company) make really good metal cased ones, but at a price. We have some dating from 1991 still in good working condition!

Will need to do R1 + R2 tests tho.

I did end to end and like you mentioned about the split ring being fed by 2x 32a MCB that’s exactly what I found. I also found another ring which had been split but this ring had one of its LNE leg just connector blocked floating inside the CU.

OK, you know that well!

Can I just check the Ze or does Zs need to be carried out too before the CU change?

Ze (i.e. supply earth tested with installation off and it separated) is most fundamental as it is the only one you ought to rely upon for fault disconnection:

• If TT it should be under 200 ohms, and definitely find and inspect the rod(s) it to see if in sound condition.
• For TN supplies you would normally see under 0.8 ohm (TN-S) or 0.35 ohm (TN-C-S) but that is not guaranteed. Those TN values are used in the OSG for guidance on circuit size, etc.

Measuring Zs at the DB to get max PFC, and measuring max PSCC, is easier and the higher of the two tells you if the OCPD can safely disconnect, etc. But with modern domestic CU you are very unlikely to ever see an issue as they can disconnect to 6kA at least. Old rewirable can be a risk though, at 1kA or 2kA typical max PFC.

But checking Zs is not telling you Ze is good - it might be relying on service pipe bonding that can change externally and without warning due to repairs when metal pipes are replaced with plastic.

When finding out if there are borrowed neutrals, I’m guessing I would check continuity between neutral and other neutral conductors at the board. For example disconnect 1 neutral and test between that conductor and the neutral bars?

Typically you need to IR one circuit to another, and with two-way switches in all permutations, as typically it is L of one circuit returning via N of another so only in some positions is it connected, and it depends on the lamp (which could be LED or CFL) being driven in to conduction which might need tens of volts at least.

I think the ROI regs demand that circuit-circuit isolation is measured, basically this sort of test.

 

[ppelec100]

Sorry for not quoting your message properly I’m not too familiar with how to use this on mobile.

That’s quite a cheap current clamp meter, thanks for linking me that will have to buy it.

Yeah I thought it would be too much on one RCD too, thats why I thought I’d suggest them the RCBO board.

Okay thanks for the info on the Ze Zs. The intake is a TN-S as it’s earth of the armoured outer sheath. Hopefully the Ze is good as they haven’t even got any bonding to water or gas. Will have to install these before I even start on the CU stuff.

So for the borrowed neutral I would need to IR test L from one circuit to N of other circuits let’s say upstairs lighting L and downstairs lighting N? If there is a lamp in and the switches are operated on off on off and I get a reading it will give me a low reading as it’s passing through L and passing through the lamp back through N?

You lost me when you mentioned I would need tens of volts at least?

In theory wouldn’t the continuity method between one circuits neutral and another circuits neutral give me an idea too if there is a borrowed neutral as well as the IR test?

Thank you

 

[Grant1987]

I do end to end on all rings
I do IR tests where possible
and R1 R2 at easy positions

Ze
Zs
RCD trip times

personally don't bother with figure 8

This is exactly the best way to think about testing just simplify it without overcomplicating matters. Providing you know the max permissible values or know where to find them then it’s all straight forward

 

[littlespark]

Reading #7, this could be an absolute mare of a job.
You’re going to find all sorts.

Depending on how bodgy it’s been, and age of propert, expect incomplete rings, no cpc between downlights, no earth link to metal accessories, attic jointboxes without lids….

 

[timhoward]

So for the borrowed neutral I would need to IR test L from one circuit to N of other circuits let’s say upstairs lighting L and downstairs lighting N? If there is a lamp in and the switches are operated on off on off and I get a reading it will give me a low reading as it’s passing through L and passing through the lamp back through N?

I actually wouldn’t do this, I’d stick to L+N to E for IR tests. That is basically pat testing the entire house at once and it isn’t uncommon to have to go around and unplug things to find the item that is on its way out / the last one I did was an oven on a plug top.
Any other IR test permutation or between circuits risks damage to connected equipment.

In theory wouldn’t the continuity method between one circuits neutral and another circuits neutral give me an idea too if there is a borrowed neutral as well as the IR test

Yes in my view continuity is enough.
You are basically after big picture tests to give you the general idea before a CU change.

 

[pc1966]

I should have said that any IR testing that is not L+N to E should be done at 250V in case there is a low power load on the circuit.

L+N to E is (or should be!) safe to do at 500V as any components rated for such use, such as class Y capacitors, are designed to survive impulses to several kV without failing so you have little risk of L-E fault being triggered (and a dangerous voltage if CPC open due to another fault).

The exception to that are SPD, as they are designed to conduct above around 400V to limit surges, so they typically appear as below around 0.5M at 500V, but above around 10M at 250V.

Any other IR test where you go from L to N in any permutation (same circuit, or checking for borrowed neutral between two circuits) should be done at 250V to protect low power electronics.

Basically your 230V AC supply could be as high as 253V, and that peaks at sqrt(2)*253 = 358V so electronics are OK to that voltage. But your IR tester can go to 500V (or a bit more) but only at 1mA or so current. So any significant load will never see 500V, but a low power LED lamp, USB charger, cooker clock, etc, that takes less than 0.5W on standby will get charged to 500V+ and probably damaged by the IR test.

 

[pc1966]

Yeah I thought it would be too much on one RCD too, thats why I thought I’d suggest them the RCBO board.

Always go RCBO if at all possible. Far less trouble later on and cost difference now is only around £100 in most cases.

Okay thanks for the info on the Ze Zs. The intake is a TN-S as it’s earth of the armoured outer sheath. Hopefully the Ze is good as they haven’t even got any bonding to water or gas. Will have to install these before I even start on the CU stuff.

Sounds like you have quite a poor installation to start with!

Yes, bonding is important from a shock safety point of view, and on TN-C-S cases also a fire risk as you might have an open-PEN fault trying to divert the neighbourhood's neutral current via some boiler's 0.75mm CPC if no 10mm service pipe bonding!

So for the borrowed neutral I would need to IR test L from one circuit to N of other circuits let’s say upstairs lighting L and downstairs lighting N? If there is a lamp in and the switches are operated on off on off and I get a reading it will give me a low reading as it’s passing through L and passing through the lamp back through N?

Basically yes. The typical case for a borrowed neutral is the live of circuit #1 feeds the 2-way switch on floor #1, and in turn to the 2-way on floor #2, and then back via the nearest neutral (circuit #2) and not the neutral associated with the supply (#1).

It is very dangerous as someone might isolate circuit #2 but then someone switches the light on and its neutral becomes live due to the cross-linking.

If you fit all RCBO they will find it fast!

You lost me when you mentioned I would need tens of volts at least?

If you have LED or CFL lamps they won't show any conduction at the volt or so used for continuity testing (or resistance testing via a multimeter).

But as above, testing should be done at 250V to avoid damaging a light or dimmer.

In theory wouldn’t the continuity method between one circuits neutral and another circuits neutral give me an idea too if there is a borrowed neutral as well as the IR test?

No, as in most cases the cross-linking is via some load like a lamp. While you could get the borrowed neutral case appearing in other circuits, and you might get two circuit's neutrals linked by mistake, the most common reason was someone not having 3&E cable for two-way lights on a building with lights split as upper floor on one circuit and lower floor on another, etc.

 

[ppelec100]

Reading #7, this could be an absolute mare of a job.
You’re going to find all sorts.

Depending on how bodgy it’s been, and age of propert, expect incomplete rings, no cpc between downlights, no earth link to metal accessories, attic jointboxes without lids….

I’ve been at the house to fault find and thankfully as part of the fault finding I carried out IR test so I guess I wont have to do that again. I found 2 broken rings and rectified the problem. All sockets are plastic and all lighting are rose ceiling except for 3 rooms but they’re just fluorescent fittings or some sort of spotlight fitting, hopefully with cpc’s. No down lights. Will have to do R1 + R2 to check. There were a couple minor visual things I noticed which are quick fixes.

 

[ppelec100]

I actually wouldn’t do this, I’d stick to L+N to E for IR tests. That is basically pat testing the entire house at once and it isn’t uncommon to have to go around and unplug things to find the item that is on its way out / the last one I did was an oven on a plug top.
Any other IR test permutation or between circuits risks damage to connected equipment.


Yes in my view continuity is enough.
You are basically after big picture tests to give you the general idea before a CU change.

Thank you for your input.

 

[ppelec100]

I should have said that any IR testing that is not L+N to E should be done at 250V in case there is a low power load on the circuit.

L+N to E is (or should be!) safe to do at 500V as any components rated for such use, such as class Y capacitors, are designed to survive impulses to several kV without failing so you have little risk of L-E fault being triggered (and a dangerous voltage if CPC open due to another fault).

The exception to that are SPD, as they are designed to conduct above around 400V to limit surges, so they typically appear as below around 0.5M at 500V, but above around 10M at 250V.

Any other IR test where you go from L to N in any permutation (same circuit, or checking for borrowed neutral between two circuits) should be done at 250V to protect low power electronics.

Basically your 230V AC supply could be as high as 253V, and that peaks at sqrt(2)*253 = 358V so electronics are OK to that voltage. But your IR tester can go to 500V (or a bit more) but only at 1mA or so current. So any significant load will never see 500V, but a low power LED lamp, USB charger, cooker clock, etc, that takes less than 0.5W on standby will get charged to 500V+ and probably damaged by the IR test.

Thank you, that last part really helped me to understand the voltage the equipment can handle being IR tested at.

 

[ppelec100]

Always go RCBO if at all possible. Far less trouble later on and cost difference now is only around £100 in most cases.

Sounds like you have quite a poor installation to start with!

Yes, bonding is important from a shock safety point of view, and on TN-C-S cases also a fire risk as you might have an open-PEN fault trying to divert the neighbourhood's neutral current via some boiler's 0.75mm CPC if no 10mm service pipe bonding!

Basically yes. The typical case for a borrowed neutral is the live of circuit #1 feeds the 2-way switch on floor #1, and in turn to the 2-way on floor #2, and then back via the nearest neutral (circuit #2) and not the neutral associated with the supply (#1).

It is very dangerous as someone might isolate circuit #2 but then someone switches the light on and its neutral becomes live due to the cross-linking.

If you fit all RCBO they will find it fast!


If you have LED or CFL lamps they won't show any conduction at the volt or so used for continuity testing (or resistance testing via a multimeter).

But as above, testing should be done at 250V to avoid damaging a light or dimmer.

No, as in most cases the cross-linking is via some load like a lamp. While you could get the borrowed neutral case appearing in other circuits, and you might get two circuit's neutrals linked by mistake, the most common reason was someone not having 3&E cable for two-way lights on a building with lights split as upper floor on one circuit and lower floor on another, etc.

Yeah fusebox RCBO’s and boards are quite well made and cheap too.

I have seen the stopcock for the water pipe and seems like it’ll be a nightmare to get to. The gas is just on the other side of the consumer unit apparently fingers crossed.

Okay the borrowed neutral thing makes sense. So you know how I mentioned about the continuity method and you mentioned that I may still get continuity through led lamp... hypothetically if the lamps were removed or switches turned off then I did the continuity test between 1 neutral and another neutral it should be clear right?

 

[pc1966]

Yeah fusebox RCBO’s and boards are quite well made and cheap too.

They seem to be a favourite for any budget install here, as the likes of Hager or Schneider cost a lot more.

I have seen the stopcock for the water pipe and seems like it’ll be a nightmare to get to. The gas is just on the other side of the consumer unit apparently fingers crossed.

In selecting a position to bond the pipe you have to be practical as well. So as close to entry as sensible, and normally on the installation side of any meter/stopcock from an ownership point of view. Also it should be before any T-junction as they may not remain electrically sound.

Okay the borrowed neutral thing makes sense. So you know how I mentioned about the continuity method and you mentioned that I may still get continuity through led lamp... hypothetically if the lamps were removed or switches turned off then I did the continuity test between 1 neutral and another neutral it should be clear right?

Yes, if you establish the L route to a given lamp socket, and the N route, and they are different circuits then you have a borrowed neutral.

 

[ppelec100]

They seem to be a favourite for any budget install here, as the likes of Hager or Schneider cost a lot more.

In selecting a position to bond the pipe you have to be practical as well. So as close to entry as sensible, and normally on the installation side of any meter/stopcock from an ownership point of view. Also it should be before any T-junction as they may not remain electrically sound.

Yes, if you establish the L route to a given lamp socket, and the N route, and they are different circuits then you have a borrowed neutral.

If you found a t junction I’m guessing you would crocodile clips either side and check continuity to establish if it was electrically sound?

Thank you for your replies you’ve helped me massively!

 

[pc1966]

If you found a t junction I’m guessing you would crocodile clips either side and check continuity to establish if it was electrically sound?

It also depends if the type of joint is likely to remain conductive, and if it is some location that might get changed soon.

A soldered T is probably a sound electrical bet, also possibly a clamp brass style, but I'm not sure the metal push-on would remain a good conductor, and obviously the plastic sort will never be!

Really if you can get the cable to at least the incoming pipe before any joints it is a far better and safer bet. Sadly, and in spite of the warning labels, plumbers still cut off earth bonds and fail to consider that during any work.

 

[ppelec100]

It also depends if the type of joint is likely to remain conductive, and if it is some location that might get changed soon.

A soldered T is probably a sound electrical bet, also possibly a clamp brass style, but I'm not sure the metal push-on would remain a good conductor, and obviously the plastic sort will never be!

Really if you can get the cable to at least the incoming pipe before any joints it is a far better and safer bet. Sadly, and in spite of the warning labels, plumbers still cut off earth bonds and fail to consider that during any work.

Again thank you. Since we are on the topic of consumer unit change...

Wanted to ask when it comes to changing the tails what do you recommend?
Normally I would cut the seal but this house had a smart meter fitted and stupidly they didn’t fit a DP isolator.

Can I still cut the seal and pull the fuse or would it be better to cut the seal of the smart meter and pull the outgoing tails out so that when I put them back in I’m doing it live but only the outgoing meter terminals are live?

Would they know if the fuse was pulled as the meter will have no power? They shouldn’t know if I cut the meter seal and pull out the outgoing tails unless they got a tamper thing? Any resealing kits you could recommend?

 

[timhoward]

Wanted to ask when it comes to changing the tails what do you recommend?

The only recommendation most on here will feel comfortable making on a public forum is to phone up the DNO and request an isolator be fitted. Cost is often completely random, I've known free to £150, and I've also known them suddenly halve the price if I pretend to change my mind.
There's no shame in getting it done properly, it's a good investment having one and in some situations I do it.

Both removing a smart meters supply and opening the front cover will trigger the anti-tamper alert and they have been known to arrive rather quickly. So I certainly wouldn't advise either of the proposals you mention.

 

[ppelec100]

The only recommendation most on here will feel comfortable making on a public forum is to phone up the DNO and request an isolator be fitted. Cost is often completely random, I've known free to £150, and I've also known them suddenly halve the price if I pretend to change my mind.
There's no shame in getting it done properly, it's a good investment having one and in some situations I do it.

Both removing a smart meters supply and opening the front cover will trigger the anti-tamper alert and they have been known to arrive rather quickly. So I certainly wouldn't advise either of the proposals you mention.

Hmm they are a pain to come and fit one in and it’s rather off putting for the customer especially if it adds to the cost of me putting in a consumer unit. I know it is what it is and it’s my safety, just a hassle really.

I mean if I was to attempt to remove the tails from the existing board live using insulated 1000v gloves and Henley blocks, and I find the ends of the tails a bit messy and needing to be cut properly, are they able to be cut separately and stripped back whilst live? I probably won’t as I don’t like working live especially with tails but hypothetically they can can be cut without exploding?

 

[SparkyChick]

Hmm they are a pain to come and fit one in and it’s rather off putting for the customer especially if it adds to the cost of me putting in a consumer unit. I know it is what it is and it’s my safety, just a hassle really.

I mean if I was to attempt to remove the tails from the existing board live using insulated 1000v gloves and Henley blocks, and I find the ends of the tails a bit messy and needing to be cut properly, are they able to be cut separately and stripped back whilst live? I probably won’t as I don’t like working live especially with tails but hypothetically they can can be cut without exploding?

You should have the customer contact their energy supplier as many of them will fit isolators.

You should absolutely not consider changing the board with live tails, the amount of manipulation they may require makes this a fools errand at best and a one way ticket to the big scheme in the sky is most definitely on the cards. If you've never arc welded, I suggest you have a go and see what a low voltage 100A arc is like and then consider you'll be dealing with something that can (for a very short time at least) deliver maybe 1000A.

To call it stupid would be an understatement of epic proportions.

As it appears your questions about testing have been answered, I'm going to close this thread. Have the customer talk to their energy supplier about an isolator and if they won't do it, then get the DNO out to pull the fuse at the very least. I've found that they are often willing to pull the fuse and then go and sit in the van for the time it takes me to connect a pre-installed isolator to the meter... they check the connections for tightness, seal everything up and go on their merry way... one fuse pulling fee, isolator fitted and you can go about your day knowing you'll go home at the end of it.