Advice On roof Fixings for Rosemary Tiled roof

[The Launderer]

Doing our first job next week on my own house for our MCS visit. Its a Rosemary tile roof.

To complicate things we are installing the panels in landscape.

I took advice from Segen and agreed we would install vertical rails and use noggins where necessary

Spent a bit of time going through the forum and thought I had the selection of roof anchors sorted.

I again took advice from Segen and selected the Schuco Roof Anchor SCH 257130



I was reasonably happy I had the right thing but I got the roofer to check and discovered the tiles are laid straight onto the sacking board with no battens used and we cant dress these in because they will sit too high.

Both the roofer and myself are new to this and we looked through the available fixings and again spoke to Segen. This time we selected a hanger bolt and we talked about drilling through the tile and securing this way. Again I took advice from Segen and they said they would check with Schuco. The came back and told me Schuco said this would be fine and I was going to order this fitting. (SCH 231149)



I wasn't entirely happy with this advice and phoned around a few other PV supply merchants and I spoke to someone that seemed to know what he was talking about and he told me that this fitting was for a corrugated roof and couldn't be sealed properly on my Rosemary tiled roof and I would be likely to fail our MCS visit. This helpful chap suggested this fitting (SCH 256311)








So before I order this I would be really grateful if someone who really does know what they are talking about could confirm that this will do the job.

I now intend to install these anchors and fit some horizontal rails and then fit my vertical rails in a cruciform cross rail formation. Is this going to work and comply with MCS?

Any advice gratefully received!!

​

 

[northernsun]

Yup- the 3rd one is the type of hook I would use for a clay tile roof. Remove the tiles as needed to get access to the timber you are fixing to. Fix the hook in place and put the tiles back cutting with a grinder if needed and replacing the tile directly underneath the hook with lead- the hook flexes and can crack the tile it sits on.
The tile that covers the hook will be cut into a n shape around the hook (if its in the middle)
Thats a pretty basic decription. I have absolutely no idea why segen told you that those 2 were the way to go.
These types of roof are fairly easy when you get the hang of it from an installation point of view- the real headache working on clay tiles is just the actual being on them- they are slippery, break easily and more often than not quite bloody steep!
On a side note the chances of an MCS inspector getting near your roof is fairly slim, the job inspection will probably take about 20 minutes with 8 hours for the office inspection, you'll spend more time making tea than showing him the roof anchors

 

[The Launderer]

The tile that covers the hook will be cut into a n shape around the hook (if its in the middle)

Thanks for the advice. That gives me a bit more confidence that i am on the right track. If i use a grinder to cut out the N shape how do I take out the last cut along the top of the bit to be cut out?

 

[northernsun]

Depends how big it is really but you can give it a little dink with the grinder and break it off- with a small grinder obviously. I used to just snap it off with pipe grip plier and then smooth it out with the grinder, you might break a few till you get the hang of it. With you doing your own roof you can afford to take your time and maybe go through a good few tiles- to be honest you will probably need a few spares anyway, like I said they are often quite easy to break when you are working on the roof, even when your on roof ladders. Its one of those things that you pick up once your doing it, you have a roofer with you so I would imagine your going to get the roof nice and weather proof using lead where its needed- I always makea lip along the outside edges of any lead used by folding a few mm over forming a water barrier, this adds a little time but its how an old school roofer taught me, just find the best way that works for you.
I actually quite like doing them, it does take a little longer than, say concrete interlocking tiles such as marleys but done right you get a good result without the questions that are left with a slate roof- as shown by the posts on here.

I've never done one without battens like yours but I lift the batten and slide the hook under it before fixing so it ends up pretty much the same- though you might need to put a packer underneath the hook to give it something to sit on, a cut piece of batten or similar. By that I mean under the hook after the dog-leg bit, not under the fixing holes, this means that the packer is taking any flex.

 

[Worcester]

I've never done one without battens like yours but I lift the batten and slide the hook under it before fixing so it ends up pretty much the same- though you might need to put a packer underneath the hook to give it something to sit on, a cut piece of batten or similar. By that I mean under the hook after the dog-leg bit, not under the fixing holes, this means that the packer is taking any flex.

I hope you refix the batten properly.

The batten performs two functions, only one of which is to hold the tile in place.

10 points to anyone who knows what the second one is?

A: It is to resist all the uplift pressures on the roof.

The TILES are not supposed to be subjected to uplift.

So who thinks the felt underlay primary purpose is to keep the roof water tight?

A: Wrong, that's its SECONDARY function

What is the purpose of underlay?

The primary function of underlay in a pitched roof is to counter the pressure that can build up inside the roof space caused by the suction effect of the wind. Its weatherproofing ability is a secondary function. Tiles are sucked rather than blown off roofs so correct underlay installation is crucial to ensure tiles remain on the roof. When installing underlay adjacent layers are overlapped with at least one batten fixed over the horizontal lap to prevent wind building up and pushing open the lap forcing tiles off the roof. Underlay also keeps the inside of the roof dry while tiling takes place. When tiling is complete it provides a barrier to wind driven snow and condensation that can form in the space between the underlay and the tiles.

Now the underlay is held in place by the battens, so all that uplift is carried by the battens

How else did you all think it the uplift carried? - The weight of the tiles isn't enough

Make sure the battens are properly fixed back, else you'll have tiles and panels flying off.

 

[solarsavings]

Monier Redland: Tile Laying and Fixing

 

[northernsun]

Cheers worcester. I'll be honest, I didnt know that! I do however fix the battens down again.

Great info.

 

[The Launderer]

I hope you refix the batten properly.

The batten performs two functions, only one of which is to hold the tile in place.

10 points to anyone who knows what the second one is?

A: It is to resist all the uplift pressures on the roof.

The TILES are not supposed to be subjected to uplift.

So who thinks the felt underlay primary purpose is to keep the roof water tight?

A: Wrong, that's its SECONDARY function

What is the purpose of underlay?

The primary function of underlay in a pitched roof is to counter the pressure that can build up inside the roof space caused by the suction effect of the wind. Its weatherproofing ability is a secondary function. Tiles are sucked rather than blown off roofs so correct underlay installation is crucial to ensure tiles remain on the roof. When installing underlay adjacent layers are overlapped with at least one batten fixed over the horizontal lap to prevent wind building up and pushing open the lap forcing tiles off the roof. Underlay also keeps the inside of the roof dry while tiling takes place. When tiling is complete it provides a barrier to wind driven snow and condensation that can form in the space between the underlay and the tiles.

Now the underlay is held in place by the battens, so all that uplift is carried by the battens

How else did you all think it the uplift carried? - The weight of the tiles isn't enough

Make sure the battens are properly fixed back, else you'll have tiles and panels flying off.

Very interesting. How does this work on my roof with no battens in place at all?

 

[Worcester]

The sarking layer with whatever's beneath it will be resisting the primary uplift.