Any tips on lifting glued down chipboard?

[Devonchris]

I suppose all the techniques and types of construction are covered on the 4 week DI courses together with practical demos that an on the job apprentice would get?

 

[telectrix]

I suppose all the techniques and types of construction are covered on the 4 week DI courses together with practical demos that an on the job apprentice would get?

day 3, just arter lunch..... "how to butcher a chipboard floor"
day 4, 1st lesson............... "how to put the blame on wet-pants".

 

[123]

Every other joist... you can drill the joist on either side from one hole, possibly more if you can get longer drill bits/extenders on. And the cost of plugs should be covered by the time you save not having the hassle of cutting and fixing battens etc.

The trouble with drilling blind is you're going to hit any wire or pipes clipped on the other side of the joist that you couldn't see

 

[telectrix]

i'd alwaysgofor theceiling.easier, cheaper to fix. no brainer.

 

[SparkyChick]

The trouble with drilling blind is you're going to hit any wire or pipes clipped on the other side of the joist that you couldn't see

Never said it was a good idea... just that you could

 

[Deleted member 93172]

The trouble with drilling blind is you're going to hit any wire or pipes clipped on the other side of the joist that you couldn't see

I think you will find the special chipboard hole cutter has a stop on it to prevent you going to deep.

 

[Des 56]

Some interesting methods of accessing through the weyroc sheet

Have you ever seen a plumber gaining access when he has a leak?
I have seen that plumber on a new build gain immediate access with nothing more than a trusty hammer
Bang bang -hole,bang bang-hole

 

[Zdb]

By far the quickest and easiest way

 

[mhar]

Armeg 127mm Solid Board Cutter - Plug Set - https://www.its.co.uk/pd/SBC127PLUGSET-Armeg-127mm-Solid-Board-Cutter---Plug-Set-_ARMSBC127PLUGSET.htm

Armeg 127mm Plug Caps, Pack of 10 - https://www.its.co.uk/pd/SBC127PLUGX10-Armeg-127mm-Plug-Caps,-Pack-of-10-_ARMSBC127PLUGX10.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5KXXuPq51gIV18myCh3rWwfjEAQYCCABEgIVJ_D_BwE

I also use this to repair downlight holes when they have disintegrated. Bit of 3mm ply or hardboard and use the cutter to cut a 5" diameter circle. In the centre of this circle use the required size downlight holesaw so you end up with a 5" circle with a 72/75mm (or whatever the required size) in the middle. Saw cut between the two and you can then feed this up into above the hole so that you a) have something to fill to (if required) and b) have something solid that the sprung wings of the downlight can bear on

 

[SJD]

As already mentioned, I'd avoid lifting any boards. They are glued for a reason, after you've lifted them and replaced them, they'll squeak, and you'll regret it.

If the ceiling can be skimmed after, then holes from below is the easiest, typically I use 100mm dia holes. Keep all the plugs and put them back in the same holes, with a bit of timber batten to support them.

If you want to avoid ceiling damage, then I'm with holes from the floor above using one of the cutters. Yes a kit costs £50 but a good part of that is the steel plates (£4 each), which you'll need.

I sometimes use a right angle drill that can fit through the 100mm access hole. That way, I only need an access hole every other joist. But there is the risk of hitting existing cables & pipes in the voids you can't see, so try to work out where existing cables and pipes run first. If you've already cut the downlight holes, that gives you some clues as to what is in there.

Sometimes you can be lucky and find existing holes & cables. A recent kitchen 8 downlight job, one row of lights was almost over a run of cables, I could use the existing lighting feed from the switch to pull in a new cable between several lights positions. A good cable rod set with magnet & chain is sometimes very handy.

 

[Squid]

Moral of story, never buy a new build.

 

[Wilko]

Moral of story, never buy a new build.

At least there's no asbestos...

 

[littlespark]

Sticky backed surface trunking between the lights? Saves a lot of mess with lifting floors.

 

[Squid]

At least there's no asbestos...

Lots of MDF in a new I bet, which is carcinogenic its the new asbestos.

 

[Squid]

Serious section now, as its a new build see if you can get hold of the architectural plans as then you will know where the joists are and the noggins so then can plan the cable run, when I did my flat rebuild we where lucky to have enough room to lay a false ceiling with plenty of space to run any additional cables if required.

 

[cliffed]

Make sure they are installed in designated zones ha ha

 

[pirate]

I will add my vote to the board cutter

It's neat, quick, and can be used over and over on all sorts of jobs.
Try to avoid lifting the floor, for all the reasons already stated.

My wife wanted downlighters in the kitchen too...the bedroom above had a fitted wardrobe at one end, so I lifted the floorboards in there and BINGO the joists ran lengthways so it was an easy task to pull the supply into that space, and feed cable to the downlighter holes drilled in the kitchen ceiling, without having to disturb any of the bedroom floor itself. Replaced the boards in the wardrobe, bit of spare carpet on top, job done.

If the joists run the wrong way, then the board cutter, routabout is your friend.