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Why are they buying this? For nostalgia or weigh in?
Most likely to pass new work off as existing circuits.
Why else would you install 20 year old cable at higher cost than new?
Discuss Lifting glued T&G chipboard in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Why are they buying this? For nostalgia or weigh in?
My guess was pure Nostalgia and not wanting to mix coloursMost likely to pass new work off as existing circuits.
Why else would you install 20 year old cable at higher cost than new?
My guess was pure Nostalgia and not wanting to mix colours
But if you could get your hands on enough old cable you could wire an entire house is old colours and say it was done pre Part Pee ?
Not if you screw in a centre timber as well (I don't use baton either, normally 3x2 turned on side, never has an issue yet!). Sometimes if possible I will fix to original joists, it all depends on how big a hole you need.I've always found that is not the best solution unless you batten all the edges after a year or two the chipboard distorts and leaves a slightly sunk patch in the floor
The board manufacturers advice is screw and glue.Glued chipboard floors shouldn't be nailed or screwed after, or they will start squeaking after a few years.
I know what he was up to, doing work that looks as if it was done years ago. The change in colours is a good give away.I really don't know , and I honestly don't care
Some bloke paid me nearly £100 the other day for 40mtrs of 4mm red/black T&e that I pulled out of a job
The mind boggles as he could easily go to Screwfix and get a 50mtr drum for less
Ha missed you, snap.Most likely to pass new work off as existing circuits.
Why else would you install 20 year old cable at higher cost than new?
Your post is very informative and it is always interesting to understand how others in the trade do things,Not if you screw in a centre timber as well (I don't use baton either, normally 3x2 turned on side, never has an issue yet!). Sometimes if possible I will fix to original joists, it all depends on how big a hole you need.
Also I use 'no more nails on underside of timbers that sale at least 150mm past the edges, then screw down through existing board and hope I don't need to take it back up again in the future (if I can get them in horizontal then I'll make a star 'X' using the same methods. Yet still fill in the horizontals with bit of wood along edges. Hope this makes sense, I'm not very good at explaining stuff.
I only use circular saw though set to 1 mm of final board depth just in case a pipe is tight against underneath of board, in the video he relies on a multi saw, but copper is soft and is easily nicked. the hole in board then bangs out easily enough though without causing damage.
Any router that can take a 30mm guide bush will do, I use a Makita ½in router so I can use the ½in shank cutter as the the ¼in cutter shank is a bit weak and can easily shear if you push it too hard as I found out also the ½in routers are generally a bit more powerful, although I have used ¼in and 5/16in routers with the Routabout. The ¼in router works hard and even taking your time it is tool abuse territory and with alot of use would probably burn out, the 5/16in router is better but still has the limitation of the ¼in shank cutter IMO the ½in router just feels more positive@UNG I’m interested in the routabaout system. I’ve been trying to find out whether any router can be used or only their own?
I have borrowed one of these off a mate before and for small jobs where you just need 1 or2 access points to stick your hand in the floor void they are quiet good. You can glue in a metal cover plate once finished and be on your way in no time.
Solid noggins have been the electricians nightmare , I love working in old houses with the cross noggins where you can simply rod from one side of the room to the other...Was never a problem with herringbone strutting, the advent of solid noggins has made the job more difficult for anyone who needs access, but easier for the chippy, unless you need access at right angles to the joists.
Wolf Easi joist. A must for an intelligent house. Ive used nearly 3Km of Cat 6 in the house Im building. Nightmare with standard joists.Solid noggins have been the electricians nightmare , I love working in old houses with the cross noggins where you can simply rod from one side of the room to the other...
Solid noggins are a pain in the arse
If the chippy just used a bit of imagination and drilled a couple of large access holes in each solid brace it would make life easier if the electrician/plumber knew they where there, but again a bit more work for the chippy, so will not happen.Solid noggins have been the electricians nightmare , I love working in old houses with the cross noggins where you can simply rod from one side of the room to the other...
Solid noggins are a pain in the arse
Naughty naughtyMy father produced some old coloured cable when I was rewiring their house.
Naughty naughty
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