sythai

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Apr 29, 2010
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I dont normally allow for diversity, I just install allowing for maximum demand.

But I've been doing a few calculations and it would help me if I now brought it into the equation.

I seem to be doing a lot of kitchens lately an end up having to pop back once worktops come (usually a week after I've finished my 2nd fix) just to connect up the induction/ceramic hob:rolleyes:

Have found a male/female socket and plug rated @ 20A.

So just want to see what your thoughts would be on using this (can then leave already for the kitchen fitter to install and just plug in) p:

example 8.5kw hob = 36a after diversity = 18a (hope I've calculated that right)

Also is going to depend on wether I can get the flexes to fit nicely into the plug and socket?

Any thoughts or alternatives welcome please :)

Thanks,

Sy
 
example 8.5kw hob = 36a, after diversity = 18a (hope I've calculated that right)



Thanks,

Sy

Nothing wrong with that unless you have to add 5A for a socket outlet on isolator.

Edit: Not sure about the 20A socket plug thing though as it will often take more than 20A for short periods of time
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah will just be standard isolator no socket... thank u for confirming that :)
 
If I remember correctly the diversity calcs in OSG are for cooker ie hob and oven. Surely the problem with applying diversity to just a hob would be the chances of the customer wanting to use 3 or 4 rings at a time? As pushrod says this would require more than 20a.
 
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Problem with applying diversity is as SJM mentioned.

You have to use common sense and experience.

Everyone has very diff views on what diversity figures you should apply.

For a hob ALONE I would use a diversity factor of 0.6 there abouts.
 
You have to use common sense and experience.
Well put, it was just a thought and on second thoughts don't think it seems like the right thing to do.

Thanks for your feedback.

Any alternatives would be good, looking for something like below rated at 32a, got my doubts ?? (not sure what is going on with picture size, just in case you cant see it!!)

vj79l.jpg
 
cant complain about your picture quality ;)

isnt that the cause of a womans death recently with hedgetrimmers?
 
Just reading this one got me thinking about an oven and hob I have to do.
Oven, 2.75KW, Grill 6KW.
10mm T&E running to the 45A switch and on the the cooker plate so no problems there. I plan to take old plate box out, put a double box at the plate and feed across and put a socket in, 13A plug on the oven, 2.5mm HR cable, but here is the bit I am questioning myself on, what size cable to run to the oven, I want to run 6mm as I am sure the 4 hobs will all be on but I can not find any 6mm Heat Resistant Cable, only 2.5mm which I am not happy with, spoke to my local supplier and they do not go bigger then 2.5mm HR, can someone point me in the right direction please? Cheers
 
hi walec

ive done some hobs recently the connections are so small i couldnt fit 6mm in them, also some have come pre wired and they are done in 2.5.

regards
gary
 
but I can not find any 6mm Heat Resistant Cable, only 2.5mm which I am not happy with, spoke to my local supplier and they do not go bigger then 2.5mm HR, can someone point me in the right direction please?

Not sure what area your in but get mine from Devondale or if not Wilts can get it in.

6mm HR rubber flex £3.20/m

Like Gary says may be bit of a squeeze on the terminations depending on what make etc.... but I always stick a yellow ring lug on there and is normally fine
 
CEF stock Prysmian flextreme H07 RNF flex, or at least they do down here. 90 deg tough rubber cable with 6.0mm cores. Check the current rating but I'm fairly sure they rate 4.0mm at 43 amps in free air. This might be the best choice, if your mcb is 40 amps, as squeezing in the 6.0 mm might be difficult.

Hope this helps walec.
 

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sythai

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What type of forum member are you?
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Cooker diversity advice please...
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Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations
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