Flexicom 30cx - H/W but no C/H

[sparky05084]

Hi all

Really, really helping someone can lend gods hand with this. Basically, our new house has a Glow Worm boiler and I cannot get the boiler to fire up for C/H.

H/W is fine and as soon as you run the tap it produces H/W and the tap symbol with temp displays on the LCD. I've checked all the valves are open on the pipework below the boiler, bled the rads, TRV's up to full ect ect.

The pressure does display at 3.4 bar however, I was under the impression the PRV would just release the excess and don't believe this has anything to do with it.

Thing is, when I checked the paperwork (gas cert) for the boiler it stated under comments 'wireless reciever broken'.

Now, the kit in question is the Salus RT500RF (RX) which is the wireless programmable stat and reciever.

I couldn't find a matching reciever (has it been superceeded)? So, I just nipped out and picked up a mechanical stat (Honeywell T6360) and left the programmer off.

Now, this is where I've hit a wall and I don't know if I've made a mistake or there is an actual problem with the appliance. The boiler is deffo getting a feed hence H/W via the spur and the back box adjacent to the boiler has the obvious 3 core + earth. I just connected the stat up as per perm feed, switched live and the neutral.

I thought simply changing this configuration to a stat in replacement for a reciever would solve the issue temp but I still can't get heating. The neon on the stat illuminates and turning it up to full does not make the boiler call for heat.

If I recall, the boiler itself has a 240V side and a 24V side. I'm not sure if I should have done anything with the 24v link but having it both in and removed changes nothing. If I do a manual reset the boiler goes through the motions like 2x mechanical click, fan burst but then just sits in standby only showing the H/W symbol not both.

It is worth mentioning if you hold the MODE button for the 3 secs it displays a flashing rad symbol with the word OFF.

The - and + do nothing. It's like the boiler is set up for H/W only.

I can't get this to change to ON and don't know if this has to do with the stat. Is the Honeywell compatible with this boiler or was I meant to get a Salus reciever in the first place?

I can't find a matching model and don't know if an updated variant would do the trick. Research tells me these boilers are **** and it's really spoilt my venture into being a first time buyer of a home.

What's more, I feel terribly embarrassed I'm having to ask you guys for help knowing full well I did not ask enough questions or scrutinise the boiler when looking at the house. This was clearly very stupid.

I'm paranoid about damp now as the house is part furnished (all new) and the place is an ice box and I mean ice box.

The pump seems ok and I don't know how to prove/check if it's the diverter valve.

It's pretty clear I'm not big up on boilers so my apologies for chapter and verse.

Thanks.

 

[Toneyz]

Have you got a photo of electrical connections?

 

[sparky05084]

 

[sparky05084]

 

[Toneyz]

was the old stat wired on the 240v side?

 

[Toneyz]

I am wondering if you should have a link between 24v and 0v see manual attached.

 

[Richard Burns]

Once you have pressed the mode button for 3 seconds did you then set the central heating temperature using +-?
The wiring looks like it should be OK, though I cannot exactly see the colours of the cores but the switched line seems to be correct.
The lack of CH operation does seem to indicate no control system in place, but you have got a system there.
Have you checked that the cable connection at both ends are securely fixed?
The boiler should run the hot water without reference to the external controls, so the lack of CH can only be relevant to the external controls, unless there is a pcb failure on the boiler just for CH.

 

[gutterball]

try amazon they seem to have them. www.amazon.co.uk/Salus-RT500RF-Programmable-Frequency-Thermostat/dp/B003ERP1LE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517746598&sr=8-1&keywords=Salus+RT500RF not sure if you can get the seperate parts or neet to buy as a set.

 

[Toneyz]

Attached. See pages 24/25

 

[123]

Manual Page 24, as @anthonybragg says you need to put a link between 0-24v terminals

 

[sparky05084]

Hi

Thanks for sticking with us. Ok, to avoid confusion I will answer each part as per order of your posts (hope that makes sense).

1. When you say stat wired on the old 240v side all I have done is removed the apparent faulty wireless RF and replaced it for a honeywell mechanical stat. The connections in the boiler interface housing remain the same which are:

3 core pvc flex to brown - Live, Blue - Neutral, CPC, 3 core + earth doubled with Live flex to brown, Neutral flex to Black, terminal R with Grey (terminal F empty).

2. The 24v link has been reinstated.

3. Pressing and holding mode button only brings up a flashing rad symbol with 'off' displayed.

Taking all above into consideration the boiler still won't provide C/H. I've tested the pcb at the electrical test point and am getting juice.

I cannot for the life of me understand why there is no facility to hold the mode button to either A) set the heating temp or B) get it to actually display 'on'.

A google search does not bring any hint of why the mode button behaves this way.

It's as if the boiler is sat in standby and waiting to be call on for heat.

My main concern is actually replacing the honeywell stat for a working reciever won't solve the problem.

Does this boiler only work with LV exterior controls?

Could this quite possibly be a faulty diverter valve?

 

[sparky05084]

Oh just to add I drained a bit off the rad and the pressure is now 1.1 bar. Still no change. Thanks 123 for your input.

 

[Toneyz]

Are the any blown fuses on the PCB? Have you taken a look at the troubleshooting section of the installer manual?

 

[sparky05084]

I will double check the pcb fuse but it was fine on continuity. I can't seem to locate an actual troubleshoot that pertains to the boiler display wherin the heating symbol stays as OFF.

I noticed the last Gas Safe cert is registered 01/16.

There's no 2017 cert. Although I feel I've been a numpty and not queried this from the outset, if I feel in any way the seller has omitted the boiler is faulty or the 2017 check has deliberately been omitted then I will open the flood gates.

Thanks again for trying. I've had to leave the property for a bit. My car is warmer!

 

[PEG]

Hi,i do not know your level of skill,regarding such matters,but that boiler has a frost stat input,at "F". A supply to that,which bypasses the control side,would tell you if the control side is faulty.
Nothing there,would indicate a boiler issue,valve micro-switches,pcb,etc.

If unsure,i would not allow an expensive house to moisten...contact a recommended heating engineer.

 

[sparky05084]

Hi PEG

So, if I were to fit a link from the perm live on the plug to F would that achieve the bypass you speak of?

Sorry, yes my level of skill is quite limited however, I 'm more than willing to learn and try to fix this if I of course, can.

I'd be massively grateful if you could tell me if my thinking above is correct and what exactly I'm looking for to prove if the control side is faulty.

Thanks

 

[PEG]

Hi, we had a thread running,lately,where we were discussing the risks and pitfalls,of giving electrical advice,to DIY and non-professional posters.
I copped for a bit of stick,for pointing out the responsibility of members,in encouraging others to do work,beyond their capabilities...

The manual posted,has a wiring diagram,which shows the basic connections for power,control,and it shows the frost stat inclusion.

If you have linked out the controls already,and the boiler is set to run,according to the scrolled set-ups,it sounds like an internal fault.

 

[PEG]

Hi PEG

So, if I were to fit a link from the perm live on the plug to F would that achieve the bypass you speak of?

Sorry, yes my level of skill is quite limited however, I 'm more than willing to learn and try to fix this if I of course, can.

I'd be massively grateful if you could tell me if my thinking above is correct and what exactly I'm looking for to prove if the control side is faulty.

Thanks

Just a thought,the boiler has fault codes and also,state codes,and if you have a read of the manual,you may be able to bring up what state it is in,and scroll through what position,the various micro switches are in, This may give an indication of a stuck diverter,etc.

If this function is not available,maybe the board is faulty.

 

[sparky05084]

Hi mate.

Listen, I do appreciate your point regards technical information and the fact that yes, it may come across your providing it scott free to someone whom is not up to speed with boilers or skilled. I'm not after homework or to have my hand held. I'm just in a panic here and thought no harm in asking.

That being said, I do thank you for at least taking the time to explain your thoughts.

I reckon theres either a fault with the PCB or it's a signal issue between controls and PCB interface. As you said, internally.

The giveaway to me is the fact holding the MODE button displays heating as 'off' as well as the - & + buttons not responding.

I will link out the feed onto the stat connection in the plug to see if I can get some heat on just using the boiler itself with no external demand.

I'll also double, treble check continuity on the 3 core + earth.

If that fails then I fear as you said, I'll end up getting an engineer. So much for my first house :/

 

[Last plumber]

I fear as you said, I'll end up getting an engineer in

Have you tried dropping the pressure yet ?

 

[Last plumber]

Take it down to 1.2 bar ish and try linking L to R.
If there's no joy, let me know and I will think again.

 

[sparky05084]

Hi

I took it down to 1.2ish yes. I'm going back tonight (clothed up to the max layers and all!!) to try the link out method.

So I'm not jumping between forums (sorry phone being a pain in the **** and closing tabs), it's worth stating as per other chaps advice, if I hold MODE for 2 secs approx or less, nothing happens.

Don't quite get the hold then jab button method but I'll give it a shot.

I still cannot understand why the heating text says OFF. The rad symbol flashes for a few secs then reverts to water tap symbol.

Incidentally, is there a way to change your username on the other forum? I deffo put an alias in and it looks to me (please kindly confirm) my full friggin' name is on that thread.

Got me paranoid now ha ha.

 

[Last plumber]

Hi

I took it down to 1.2ish yes. I'm going back tonight (clothed up to the max layers and all!!) to try the link out method.

So I'm not jumping between forums (sorry phone being a pain in the **** and closing tabs), it's worth stating as per other chaps advice, if I hold MODE for 2 secs approx or less, nothing happens.

Don't quite get the hold then jab button method but I'll give it a shot.

I still cannot understand why the heating text says OFF. The rad symbol flashes for a few secs then reverts to water tap symbol.

Incidentally, is there a way to change your username on the other forum? I deffo put an alias in and it looks to me (please kindly confirm) my full friggin' name is on that thread.

Got me paranoid now ha ha.

I don't know. When I joined here It just accepted my user name from over there. @Corbs will probably know tbh.

Are there no fault codes?
Have you tried linking L-R since you took the pressure down?

 

[sparky05084]

Are there no fault codes?
Have you tried linking L-R since you took the pressure down?

There doesn't seem to be any F codes no. However I do recall a 5. 30.

Think this has something to do with the boiler asking for an external demand from a 230v source.

I'm setting off in a bit to the property to have one last stab at this. I will link out L-R and check the pressure again

I'll post back the results. Fingers crossed.

 

[sparky05084]

Right then. I've an update. I'm convinced now this is an internal controller issue as the only way to get the heating to work is (as previously suggested) link L - F.

Doing L-R did nothing. I'm not very familiar with the cycles but I can only best describe it as a 3 - 4 min loop of the pump circulating the heat around the circuit and reaching a max of 40C on the LCD.

Boiler would shut down, go through the motions then rinse, repeat. Took the chill off the house but only slightly. Rads barely even warm to the touch. Incidentally, this is no real fix as the cycles were not reliable (halted intermittently and could just hear fan for ages) so had to switch spur off/on to restart process. Proper weird.

It's evideny clear now the C/H in this property has not been checked or run for literally....months.

I also realised when NOT connected up this way, I can't with the mode button even manipulate or adjust the HW temp. Again just to clarify, the - & + do nothing.

If I hold mode for 2 seconds, nothing happens. If I hold for 5 secs, if I'm lucky, the LCD will greet me with the tell tale flashing rad symbol but with 'off'above it.

Opening a tap and even then, can't adjust the temp.

Also, the status codes were such as S30, S31, S97. No F codes present.

I've checked all the connection thrice and there's no signs off anything missing or loose.

Soooooooo, I reckon it's a new PCB?

Does the above make any sense and have I got that right?

I do hope I've cleared things up and thanks for everyones advice. I just want this stupid boiler working. I swear this thing is the Devils offspring and it's taking the **** out of me!

 

[sparky05084]

^^^
Can't get this to change

 

[Last plumber]

View attachment 40649

^^^
Can't get this to change

The behaviour from the L-F link is the frost activation ! that's why it only warms.
You said earlier that pressing the mode button brings up a rad symbol with off flashing. When you get that you use the + button to raise the temp. Take it up to 82 (or whatever the MAX is set to), and try it then. You could also try removing the 240V on R and linking out the 24v-0v on ebus side as 123 (I think) said earlier.

What does the display say? I know you said no fault codes but there should be a status code or something on it.

Start again with the reset button. Middle beneath screen.

 

[sparky05084]

Hi

Sorry if there's any confusion. Please let me explain. On the display, it is the rad symbol that flashes and the 'off' text that stays solid.

There is no way during this process to adjust the C/H temp with the + button. It simply reverts back to the H/W demand with the tap symbol and temp on display. The button is very temperamental and sometimes you have to jam it in hard (pardon the rude pun) to get it to register a press.

In other words, I cannot set the heating via the display at all.

You could also try removing the 240V on R and linking out the 24v-0v on ebus side as 123 (I think) said earlier.

What does the display say? I know you said no fault codes but there should be a status code or something on it.

Start again with the reset button. Middle beneath screen.

I've tried all this and pressed the reset button so many times now. Most of the time the status code is S30 or S31. (check external controls and check C/H setpoint).

My only other option and this is probably my absolute last resort or Ace card is to reference the boiler and install an 'external control' like the Honeywell CM927.

This by rights, should satisfy the boiler looking for a demand from an external 230V source.

However, I'm still properly confused why you can't over ride the boiler without an external control and just control the heating from the boiler itself.

This is what points me to controller or internal failure. Remember, I can't even adjust H/W temp. What does that say?

 

[Toneyz]

Sorry I didn't ask before is this one of those programmers that you insert into the boiler panel (optional ).I would of spoke to the boiler manufactures by now they may state what the problem is. If it is this inserted programmer removing it may revert back to standard stat operation only. Just looked at manual programmer/controls come as part of boiler, however it may be as simple as this control panel being replaced.

 

[sparky05084]

I don't think that applies to this particular boiler mate. There's a linked ribbon cable from the main PCB to the boiler fascia PCB.

I have checked incidentally that all the ribbon cable ect are sound and no 'links' if any are missing. Hope that eliminates another possible question.

There doesn't look as if there's a fitment option into the panel itself.

Speaking of the manufacturer I rang Glow Worm's technical helpline today. I was in the queue for nearly 20 mins. I gave up in the end I have very limited time at work. I will try again tomorrow.

 

[Last plumber]

S30/31 is no demand from Heating side, as you probably already know.
When the Boilers arrive from new they are linked out on 24V side normally so they will work without any controls by using the user interface.
If the mode button is not working at all and the harness from the user interface is good, then it sounds like the interface is faulty.
I haven't seen this of course and as you know, it's difficult to diagnose faults on the forum sometimes. It's a bit like discussing things with someone over the phone.

 

[Corbs]

I don't know. When I joined here It just accepted my user name from over there. @Corbs will probably know tbh.

Are there no fault codes?
Have you tried linking L-R since you took the pressure down?

nope last different accounts there not connected so, requires registration / create an account

 

[sparky05084]

S30/31 is no demand from Heating side, as you probably already know.
When the Boilers arrive from new they are linked out on 24V side normally so they will work without any controls by using the user interface.
If the mode button is not working at all and the harness from the user interface is good, then it sounds like the interface is faulty.
I haven't seen this of course and as you know, it's difficult to diagnose faults on the forum sometimes. It's a bit like discussing things with someone over the phone.

I totally understand what your saying. If you were there on site, You'd have most likely figured this out in a very short space of time. I've had a chat with a few other people at work and they reckon it could be down to the interface as well. Some were left scratching their heads in wonder why you can't control the C/H setpoint from the display itself with the removal of an external demand.

I really do wish this boiler was different or at the very least, bloody well working. I'm hearing some proper horror stories about the Glow Worm 24/30cx's.

Not good at all.