R

ricardo123

When I try and zero my fluke 1652 leads they are giving me a high reading so when I do an R1+R2 test the results come back as zero. Messing up my other readings as well like Zs, Ze test etc. I think they originally zero'd out to about 0.08 now I am getting around 0.6 - 0.8 ohms.

I tried giving the crocodile teeth a little clean but no change.

Anyone come across this before!?
 
im almost certain that when you zero out fluke leads on a multifunction they dont actually go to zero.....if u get say 0.8 ohms then that is subtracted automatically from your next test.
 
Have you tried pulling the croc ends off the leads and giving them a good clean with a bit of solvent?.

Cheers.......Howard
 
I have exactly the same problem with my Fluke, when first zeroing the leads out I can get a reading as high as 0.14 when usually it is as you say 0.8ish. The problem tends goes away once i have used it and carried out a couple of tests, almost like it needs warming up!!

Tried a battery change but still the same. I have just got into the habit of zeroing before each test until the figure comes back constant.

It is due a calibration in a month or two so i'll just wait and see if that corrects it.
 
Fluke 15xx series MFTs are a bit temperamental when it comes to lead nulling:(. The manufacturers standard method is by way of the Fluke zero adaptor (provided as part of all 15xxB series kits), a fancy piece of bent metal with 4mm sockets, which enables any combination of leads to zeroed reliably, even the BS1363 loop/RCD test lead. A scrap piece of 30mm wide x 50mm long copper busbar with 3 x 4mm holes in one end for nulling the 3 lead set or shorting the pins of the BS1363 plug. Alternatively 300 mm length of 1mmsq CPC wrapped round the pins of the BS1363 plug of the loop/RCD test lead are reasonable substitutes. Another method used by one of my colleges is to short the BS1363 pins on a stainless steel drainer, but it's a bit bulky to carry with you:rolleyes:. The particularly important point is giving the croc-clips something to bite on and a method that doesn't require juggling all the leads at once.
 
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Thanks for the replies, the strange thing is when I tested about a 20m run the other day I got 0.47ohms when the leads were not zero'd. However, when testing the leads on their own I got 0.8-0.16, which is wrong, it has to be the resistance between the contact points of the crocodile teeth that is causing the problems.
 
When I try and zero my fluke 1652 leads they are giving me a high reading so when I do an R1+R2 test the results come back as zero. Messing up my other readings as well like Zs, Ze test etc. I think they originally zero'd out to about 0.08 now I am getting around 0.6 - 0.8 ohms.

I tried giving the crocodile teeth a little clean but no change.

Anyone come across this before?

I use a Fluke 1652 myself and noticed, it goes erratic when the batteries are weak. Give it a new set of batteries and see if that resolves the issue.
 
I use a Fluke 1652 suggest get a new set of leads from Fluke and make sure it is using the latest firmware which can be done at calibration. Had similar problem but since doing the above it is perfect a joy to use.
 
Thanks for more replies, I notice I got my figures wrong, I meant 0.8-1.6ohms not 0.8-0.16ohms.

Will try a battery change first.
 
I use a Fluke 1652 suggest get a new set of leads from Fluke and make sure it is using the latest firmware which can be done at calibration. Had similar problem but since doing the above it is perfect a joy to use.

Mydigitalhome, what is the firmware you have as the latest version

thanks
 
This reply's a bit late but it may be a cumulative figure of a couple of zeros stored in the memory, try holding the zero button down when the leads aren't connected just to clear it.
 
I have got round to changing the batteries and the problem seems resolved in that the resistance has dropped from around 0.8 to 0.19.
 
Can anyone recommend a decent set of leads for the fluke rather than the ones you get with it.
 

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