Oven - Kitchen

[lockstock]

Hi
I’m installing in an electric oven (3kw) and gas hob, and supplying the power via a double socket which is under the counter ( this is coming off the main ring).
My question is: ‘Do I need to have an isolating switch (for the oven) installed above the counter top’ ?

Many thanks

 

[monkeyelectric]

Hi, any fixed appliance over 2kw needs to be on its own supply, so you'll have to run a new cicuit for it, cheers

 

[Amp David]

New circuit to a DP switch above worktop, then from this to your socket of FCU below in an adjacent cupboard maybe.

Thats what I di anyway. Then test and fill out yer EIC then register job with LABC or sheme provider

 

[lockstock]

Okay thanks for that.
The oven comes supplied with a 13 a plug attached.
I figured that anything supplied with a plug wasn't a fixed appliance , i know that the oven isn't going to be moved, but neither is my washing maching, which is 2.7kw.

But I'll run a separate cable anyway

 

[malcolmsanford]

Fixed appliance is an appliance that is wired direct into the installation via a FCU or similiar, not an appliance on a plug top. So that 2kw does not apply.

These appliances have been developed so that they can be plugged into a ring final circuit. I do agree with Amp David I would rather have a dedicated 20amp supply for these ovens, but there is nothing stopping you just pluging it in, it is after all just a 3kw heater.

Also a BS 1363 can be used as a means for functional switching and isolation provided it can be disconnected under load, which unplugging or switching off can do. As for the part about accessibilty then that is open to interpretation. as it does not require emergency switching then the sockets under the counter could be accessible. Again as Amp David says a switch above the counter top is a better way to design the installation

 

[malcolmsanford]

The point of these applainces are is that you can fit into a normal 13amp socket. The arguement about different circuit, plug into a ring or radial is purely down to convinience and cost.

To run your new circuit would cost. The installation, the mess, having to certify or notify the installation, then testing the circuit, upgrading your bonding which you have to do if it's not to the current specification, RCD fit if the cable is buried, this could cost you a lot.

Plug into your exisitng ring, 13amps is a decent load, and if your washing machine and kettle and oven is on the chances are your 32 amp breaker will trip, so that is the down side.

 

[monkeyelectric]

Okay thanks for that.
The oven comes supplied with a 13 a plug attached.
I figured that anything supplied with a plug wasn't a fixed appliance , i know that the oven isn't going to be moved, but neither is my washing maching, which is 2.7kw.

But I'll run a separate cable anyway

in that case then it can be run off the ring with a double pole switch above the counter and a plug socket below. If it were my job i would still prefer to put it on a seperate circuit as an oven tends to be on for a while when cooking not like a kettle thats only on for a minute or two, depends on how much trouble you want to go to running a new circuit

 

[Spudnik]

Agree with all of the above, however, the reason the regs suggest appliances of 2kW and above are on there own dedicated circuit, is to prevent the RFC, that it would normally be plugged into, from being loaded for long periods of time.