Thank you all for your comments, where to start with a reply?
The CU with RCBOs was my idea not his he wanted to fit a split CU with a RCD but you lose 2 ways when you spit the CU and space is a problem OK for 12 way, 16 way just and anything larger would require a change to the meter cupboard.
And a very good choice too, don't let anyone here convince you otherwise. It is by far, a superior arrangement compared with the compromise split CU
Bonding the water pipe is a problem area as I can not have the join plastic to metal in the kichen so stop cock under the kitchen sink is out.
Reading the regulations
Where practicable the connection to the gas, water, oil, etc., service should be
within 600 mm of the service meter, or at the point of entry to the building if
the service meter is external and must be on the consumer's side before any
branch pipework and after any insulating section in the service.
There must be some lattitude here other wise why say "practicable" and "should" does not mean has to be or am I reading this incorrectly.
There is, but it should in essence conform with the points made above. It's basically to cover any plastic pipework being subsequently installed...
I could understand there being issues if compession joints or screw threaded joints are used on metal pipe work as this could introduce a path of higher resistance but soldered copper pipe work should not present such issues as it should be a good path with very little electrical resistance. That does assume they joints are soldered correctly but if they were not they would leak.
You do not need to bond copper/metal pipework that is being supplied from a plastic incomer. The idea is to bond metal pipework that is bringing into the property, an extraneous earth path. So any copper pipework after an incoming plastic pipe, would be isolated and not require bonding. This can be proved by testing ...over 23k ohms and it doesn't need bonding...
In fact if over 23k ohms it ''Shouldn't'' be bonded, ...as doing so, can actually introduce a potential during a fault condition.
It may be possible to have the bond in the bathroom as the basin is on a cabinet and all the taps are mains fed including the hot water. Will need to look at distance from join to cabinet but it will not be anywhere close to the plastic stop cock just close to where it goes from plastic to metal.
As above comments...
May be I should have done all the water pipes incuding the heating in plastic then the problem would not arise
Will be using metal CU's as that is not a problem or going to cost an arm and a leg and should make a tidier job.
Metal or plastic, the choice is yours..
As for leaving the electrician alone to make decisions on what goes where, not a chance as I know where the sockets, switches need to go, that does assume the positions meet the current regulations or there is another reason for them to be postioned else where.
I have good understanding of electrics although not quailfied as such and had I been younger would have done the work myself and just had it signed off at the end.
Officially your not allowed to actually do that anymore and you would probably have a job trying to find someone to sign it off for you!! lol!! Now you would have had to go through the LABC, and that can be costly.
BTW: I am not looking over his shoulder as the job is 160miles away so can only get on site about once a week and just because someone is quailified does not mean they can not make a mistake, we all do but try our best not to.
