Trailing Sockets for Kitchen Appliances

[rsmck]

Firstly, I'm not an electrician - I've also not been on the forum for a while but I did receive a lot of helpful advice whilst rewiring my own home earlier in the year (and yes, it's now complete - my slightly esoteric lighting control system excluded )

Anyway, my neighbour (who has no electrical knowledge beyond trying to switch the RCD back on about 10 times before giving up) had a bit of an electrical problem recently (main RCD kept tripping) in the middle of the night and asked me to have a look at it. Not being an electrician I wasn't willing to carry out any remedial work but I figured if I could at least determine the fault and get him some power that'd be a start.

After resetting the RCD and energising each circuit in turn the fault was with the kitchen ring (helpfully unlabeled) and I found that the washing machine and dishwasher had both been installed connected to two sockets in surface pattress boxes on 2.5mm t&e underneath the sink (which had clearly been exposed to water) - despite this the sockets weren't the problem, the dishwasher itself was causing the trip and simply unplugging it means they can at least use the rest of their house. I suggested he replace the dishwasher and call an electrician to look at the sockets.

It has got me thinking though, is there an acceptable way to use trailing sockets (preferably proper duraplug ones) perhaps on a H07 flex wired to the FCU to supply appliances such as these ? The idea, whilst badly implemented, actually makes sense as it's much easier to access the socket than if it were on the wall behind the appliance.

Again I am not an electrician and have advised him to call one... just was curious if anyone had seen this before and what they'd recommend if they encountered it.

 

[Plonker 3]

A socket shouldn't be mounted on a floor at all (unless it is designed to be). A trailing socket replacing what you have isn't recommended either for terminating into a twin and earth cable as the cable is rigid and would easily snap the connections if moved occasionally. All kitchen appliances should have a socket behind them wall mounted with a means of isolation above the work surface so in a case like this it is easy to isolate and get power back on in the short term.

 

[Engineer54]

This is now typical when customers don't want to see socket outlets above the work surfaces!! These people are just fashion idiots, that soon find out the folly of there early/hasty decisions. As now to plug in a kettle, or any other work top appliance, they have to open and leave open cupboard doors where they have had the outlets fitted!! Which to my mind, is just as dangerous as the use of extension leads...

Kitchen are in most homes, functional work places, not dysfunctional fashion icons/set pieces that your just supposed to look at, but not try to use!! lol!!!

 

[rsmck]

This is now typical when customers don't want to see socket outlets above the work surfaces!! These people are just fashion idiots, that soon find out the folly of there early/hasty decisions. As now to plug in a kettle, or any other work top appliance, they have to open and leave open cupboard doors where they have had the outlets fitted!!

Thankfully, it's not my kitchen, mine has ample outlets (5 doubles) and the only appliances are a dishwasher and fridge freezer (which have a means of isolation and the socket itself is in the basement - this may be unusual, but it's an island unit and actually makes a lot of sense for ease of access)

Can't quite understand why people don't want sockets above the work surface, the lack of them was something that really irritated me in the old place so was quite happy to fit lots this time around

 

[rsmck]

A socket shouldn't be mounted on a floor at all (unless it is designed to be). A trailing socket replacing what you have isn't recommended either for terminating into a twin and earth cable as the cable is rigid and would easily snap the connections if moved occasionally. All kitchen appliances should have a socket behind them wall mounted with a means of isolation above the work surface so in a case like this it is easy to isolate and get power back on in the short term.

I did suggest it should be a flexible cable if it must must be a trailing socket - the twin and earth is clearly not suitable

 

[wallyanker]

Looking at your picture, appliance on the left, integrated appliance on the right, is that a cupboard in the middle??
If so, why not mount the sockets inside the cupboard, then the appliances can be easily accessible for isolation, no plugs on show..

 

[Rockingit]

I install new kitchen fits in EXACTLY this way, as it just makes so much practical sense. We all know that wherever you stick an under-counter socket for big white goods that eventually it will be in someones way, or not enough clearance or the moulded plug isn't long enough, etc. So instead, fed from an above counter FSU I fit a 13A trailing socket, straight out of the plaster at a sensible height, wired in HR 1.5/3 flex. It works, it's clever, and it's unseen. And it also means that you get an extra 18" of play when dragging washing machines in and out!

Edit: just to be clear, having looked at the pics again, I'm talking about proper trailing sockets - not surface mount boxes! And much, much neater!!

 

[rsmck]

Looking at your picture, appliance on the left, integrated appliance on the right, is that a cupboard in the middle??
If so, why not mount the sockets inside the cupboard, then the appliances can be easily accessible for isolation, no plugs on show..

It's a cupboard with a sink - wouldn't have been my first choice of location for an outlet, but then again, neither is the floor

Might be worth suggesting to him though thanks - it's better than whats there and would provide for an easy and safe means of isolation without cutting holes in his nicely tiled walls

 

[wallyanker]

It's a cupboard with a sink - wouldn't have been my first choice of location for an outlet, but then again, neither is the floor

Might be worth suggesting to him though thanks - it's better than whats there and would provide for an easy and safe means of isolation without cutting holes in his nicely tiled walls

I dont think there are any regs against sockets inside a cupboard underneath a sink, someone will correct me if im wrong. :yesnod: This will be a lot safer against water as if you mount them high up inside the cupboard, water naturally leaks down.

 

[zeljuga]

Must bee fixed to permanent structure,not sure on reg No:? Question how to classified kitchen unit fixed to the wall.

 

[brman]

Must bee fixed to permanent structure,not sure on reg No:? Question how to classified kitchen unit fixed to the wall.

just as permanent as the stud walls in my old house

 

[Wattsy82]

is this allowed? I have a brand new build and this is the same here. I have been told that its allowed by the company and been checked off???