Why fit a pull-cord switch for a shower?

[sjm]

I only ever use the Crabtree 50 amp pull switch. Perfectly thought out for use with 10mm cable and as Engineer 54 has said when you remove the cover the neon goes with it, perfect for testing.

 

[rich.250]

Took me a while to find Crabtree pull switches. Now wouldn't use anything else. Can be a pain If replacing a different type with a Crabtree one though.

 

[GT1]

Defo use Crabtree for any "heavy" cable. Good quality gear I've found.

 

[PC Electrics]

The Crabtree 50A shower switch is the mutts nuts. At least it is and will be until the "cost down" boys at Crabtree get hold of it like they have the rest of Crabtrees stuff.

 

[brman]

Wow, lots of love for the crabtree switch. I might have to get one just to see why

 

[electromonkey]

Originally Posted by the oracle
As far as the Regulations are concerned, try Regulation 554.3.3, which covers 'Water heaters having immersed and uninsulated heating elements' (no, NOT electrode boilers, we are talking 'immersion type' heaters!).Electric showers contain a small tank with an instantaneous immersed water heater in it, and hence come into this category.

It states " The heater or boiler shall be permanently connected to the electricity supply through a double-pole linked switch which is either separate from and within easy reach of the heater or boiler or is incorporated therin".

If you then check Regulation 701.512.3, erection of switchgear, control gear etc etc, you will see it states that

"The following requirements do not apply to switches and controls which are incorporated in fixed current-using equipment suitable for use in that zone or toinsulating pull cords of cord operated switches".

Those are the Regs that probably cover your question. Other factors like isolation, safety etc have been mentioned by other contributors already so I wont add any more. Hope that helps

The Oracle

Well oracle I think you'll find that

1 Showers are not classed for 554.3 the same as kettles are not

2. 701.512.3 again as nothing to do with requirements for DP separate switches for showers, as this reg also includes the use of a pull cord switch for lights

It looks like someone may need to change their forum name. :wink5:

 

[Lucas]

I just put a 2gang 45amp isolator in the airing cupboard, think any sort of pullswitch looks pants tbh.

 

[vernam616]

Best way is to bring the cables through the box exactly how they are going to terminate into the switch, so you arnt crossing the conductors in the box, once terminated you can bunch the conductors so far and the. Push the switch back, to be fair this sort of stuff is learnt when serving your time

On another note does anyone know of THE quick way to strip 10mm?, something i only learnt a couple of years ago

 

[D Skelton]

As far as the Regulations are concerned, try Regulation 554.3.3, which covers 'Water heaters having immersed and uninsulated heating elements' (no, NOT electrode boilers, we are talking 'immersion type' heaters!).Electric showers contain a small tank with an instantaneous immersed water heater in it, and hence come into this category.

It states " The heater or boiler shall be permanently connected to the electricity supply through a double-pole linked switch which is either separate from and within easy reach of the heater or boiler or is incorporated therin".

If you then check Regulation 701.512.3, erection of switchgear, control gear etc etc, you will see it states that

"The following requirements do not apply to switches and controls which are incorporated in fixed current-using equipment suitable for use in that zone or to insulating pull cords of cord operated switches".

Those are the Regs that probably cover your question. Other factors like isolation, safety etc have been mentioned by other contributors already so I wont add any more. Hope that helps

The Oracle

It seems that Malcom beat me to it but hey, I'm having a pop too

Showers are in line heaters, not immersion heaters, end of. You don't need an isolator for a shower unless the instructions say so. That said, in most cases I still fit them out of habit, nothing more.

On another note does anyone know of THE quick way to strip 10mm?, something i only learnt a couple of years ago

One of these works a treat!

 

[vernam616]

I meant the grey outer sheath

 

[D Skelton]

I use a Stanley. Works fine for me I suppose. I retract the blade so only a couple of millimeters are showing, no chance of nipping the insulation then. Do you have a better way?

 

[vernam616]

I do, ill try explain, far far easier to show

Hold the cable flat in hand

Using snips, snip upwards either side of the cpc, go even further possibly by cutting halfway into the conductors, then using 2 hands, pull the top layer snipped insulation and the remainder left underneath away from each other, it flies off

Might be hard to understand but if shown you would see, could strip about a metre of grey without damaging innercores in around 5 seconds

 

[D Skelton]

I use that method for the smaller cables! I never really gave it a thought for the chunky 10 and 16mm T+E's! I'll have to give that a try!

 

[electromonkey]

I snip it at the top and cut down the centre of the cable with a knife, with the blade angled toward the cpc strands.

It goes through it like a knife through butter, only it's more like a knife through pvc.

 

[vernam616]

Smaller cables i use the common way of pulling the cpc through to split it

I used to mess about for ages with a knife on a 10mm trying not to cut inner cores, until someone shown me this way and then the " why havnt i been doing this for years"

 

[vernam616]

There is no risk whatsoever of damaging inner cores by using this method electromonkey

 

[rich.250]

I use a knife on all t+e, So much easier I find. And no chance of the CPC breaking off or Being damaged with my clumsiness lol

 

[electromonkey]

There is no risk whatsoever of damaging inner cores by using this method electromonkey

There is...........if you use the wrong kind of knife. i.e. one that's too sharp.

Don't knock it until you try it.

 

[vernam616]

There is...........if you use the wrong kind of knife. i.e. one that's too sharp.

Don't knock it until you try it.

I have tryed infact most my working life i used a knife till i was shown that simple method, now i dont bother with a knife, theres no risk of damaging them at all

 

[keniff]

I do, ill try explain, far far easier to show

Hold the cable flat in hand

Using snips, snip upwards either side of the cpc, go even further possibly by cutting halfway into the conductors, then using 2 hands, pull the top layer snipped insulation and the remainder left underneath away from each other, it flies off

Might be hard to understand but if shown you would see, could strip about a metre of grey without damaging innercores in around 5 seconds

Can't visualise that at all I wanna know how you do it now!