Daisy chaining of downlighters

[zzr-matt]

I have read various methods of daisy chaining downlighters and I was wondering which you guys think are the pros and cons of each.

Taking for example a JCC GU10 fitting. It says the terminals are suitable for loop in - loop out and they certainly seem big enough but the manufacturers instructions also state that heat resistant rubber or silicone flex should be used.

The ways of doing this I can see are:
1. 1.5mm2 T+E loop in and out of the fitting directly. But obviously this goes against the manufacturers instructions as there is no heat resistant cable in proximity to the fitting and there is a risk of melted cable.
2. 1.5mm2 T+E loop in and out of an ashley J501 or similar with a stub of Heat Resistant flex to the fitting. Seems like a good plan but introduces even more screw terminals with short stubs of T+E between each box. What were the manufacturers intentions in putting a connector big enough for loop in loop out if this is what is required?

Given that the light output from the downlighters means they normally need to be placed within say 1m of each other is there any reason you couldn't go with:
3. Ashley J501 as a junction box for the switch and incomming supply with the output to the first downlighter in 1.0mm2 heat resistant flex and then daisy chain all the fittings together with more 1.0mm2 heat resistant flex?

 

[kingeri]

If you want to use the loop in/out in the fittings, then using flex for the whole lot is fine. I personally use the the J501 or more recently Line boxes, T&E between and flex out to each fitting.

 

[telectrix]

i do the same. T/E looped between line enclosures and 9" H/R flex to each downlighter. and i'm buying 5watt 300lm LEDs for £2.50 each.

 

[kingeri]

i do the same. T/E looped between line enclosures and 9" H/R flex to each downlighter. and i'm buying 5watt 300lm LEDs for £2.50 each.

Where from?

 

[telectrix]

peoples republic of china. CE certified, 50,000 hours.

 

[Brightspark2]

Use flex between each one or if your going to use joints use wago connectors and enclosure and ditch the screw terminals.

peoples republic of china. CE certified, 50,000 hours.

Ill show my bottom here if they last that long

 

[Brightspark2]

Disclaimer: I wont really.

 

[Amp David]

peoples republic of china. CE certified, 50,000 hours.

You buying direct Tel?

 

[Amp David]

In the past, when using the Click IP rated fittings, if you loop using T&E from fitting to fitting, the weight of the T&E tends to push the fittings down.

Its probably because the springs are to weak, so I started to use an enclosure with a short length of flex to the fitting

 

[i=p/u]

where you getting them from old man?:icon14:

i do the same. T/E looped between line enclosures and 9" H/R flex to each downlighter. and i'm buying 5watt 300lm LEDs for £2.50 each.

 

[i=p/u]

i just loop in and out shake it all about do the hokey pokey and blow me nose

 

[infinity]

I only use fire rated down lights now so eliminate the problem and they are almost as cheap as the normal type now!

 

[i=p/u]

here here...........................

 

[Amp David]

I only use fire rated down lights now so eliminate the problem and they are almost as cheap as the normal type now!

Eliminate which problem?

 

[i=p/u]

the cables pushing the standard gu10 fittings back down /// leaning against them

- - - Updated - - -

if they would use correct wholesaw... a a a a a

 

[Amp David]

Oh right, i'm on about the Click Flame guard IP fittings, not the standard type.

And yes, holes cut using the size they state.