Armeg Sheet Steel Hole Saws

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Discuss Armeg Sheet Steel Hole Saws in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

Never used the Armeg ones, I have used/owned Starret, Bosch, CK and Eclipse ones, and these are pretty much of a muchness quality wise, I noticed a friend of mine had some Ebaur (screwfix) ones which are much cheaper than mine but looked ok, I will ask him how he got on with them when I next see him.
 
We use punches in the workshop, they're quicker and neater as Rob says, also no worries about swarf in MCB's and contactors etc. Holesaws I prefer the cheaper short preassembled short ones for the smaller sizes, saves messing around changing the mandrill around and they last a month or two and we just replace them. The sizes 40mm - 150mm are Starret.
 
I've been using Armeg hole saws for about a year now, pretty good. The spring will break before the teeth do and dont believe their 3.4s advertising, it is not that fast.
 
Problem with punches is they're not cheap, if you've got staff with sticky fingers rather use hole saws.
 
These are the disposable type we use in small sizes up to 32mm.

images.jpeg
 
I had a go with them in some steel, yeah they seem good, just wondered really, they seemed good but not sure if I would use them much that's all.

How do you go about making a hole in steel trunking that's already fixed in place then? Presumably the punch is quite a stationery tool unlike the drill bit?
 
You still have to drill a hole, 8-12mm dependent on the size of punch. Standard drill bits can be used. In the workshop we have a hydraulic punch. If I'm out on site I've got some that will work with my impact gun, or an Allen key.

They em are a godsend for work with stainless steel.
 
uksparks said:
I had a go with them in some steel, yeah they seem good, just wondered really, they seemed good but not sure if I would use them much that's all.

How do you go about making a hole in steel trunking that's already fixed in place then? Presumably the punch is quite a stationery tool unlike the drill bit?
Click to expand...

They are good for trunking work, I treat them as consumables and just buy a new set before starting a trunking job.

The hole punches are brilliant for trunking which is already installed as they cut down the amount of swarf etc. Look up Q max hole punches
 
uksparks said:
How do you go about making a hole in steel trunking that's already fixed in place then? Presumably the punch is quite a stationery tool unlike the drill bit?
Click to expand...

A small bit of wood the same width as the trunking is the answer. Bridge the gap at the place you are drilling and this will stop the side of the trunking moving whilst applying pressure with the drill. If the trunking is already in place it must have live cables/wires in it so be careful. Move them out of the way of the forthcoming hole and dont forget that your drilling causes heat which the wires may be near.
 
For the same money as those Armeg yokes,you can get the equivalent Starrett products.

They are missing the ridiculous protrusion around the drive base,the Armeg has.

This means you can cut through holes in multiple sheets,or thicker,softer materials.

Two hair products in the shower? ...not me :jester:
 
Not knocking the Staret hole saws, used them for quite a while. Might try the Bosh next, any feed back on them for 20mm-25mm? Used their larger ones for down lights but that is only plaster board.
 
Use the for larger holes but for 20mm just use a cone cutter...good clean cut, no bad burring.
 
Rob said:
I have always stuck to starret for my hole saws though.

I tend to use punches now rather than hole saws. Far neater and no de burring.
Click to expand...

Agreed ... Starret holesaws and punches.



I used a LOT of Starret tooling in my Engineering trade days and if it's good enough for Engineers it's good enough for electricians.
 
The Armeg Acceler8 are very good. The lip on them also stops it shooting through the trunking etc. after drilling the hole. I have found them quite difficult to source though, so go for it.
 
just seen this thread-I have a set of the Armeg cutters, great because I use them in my impact driver, along with a 4-12mm step cutter for metal cutting (holes.) The 32mm wore out very quickly, but other than that they are very good. I actually like the ridge round the cutter as it stops over penetration. I get mine from ITS-I have a local outlet. The 4-12mm step cutter knocks 10mm hole through struts all day long. I am aiming to have a complete tool kit I can use in my impact driver, especially for metal munching (I do a lot of it.) Already got 17mm and 13mm impact sockets that fit inside struts and it's SO much quicker than loadsa drill bits, spanners, sockets etc. and you WON'T get them undone with a spanner when they're done up this way.
 
remer1957 said:
just seen this thread-I have a set of the Armeg cutters, great because I use them in my impact driver, along with a 4-12mm step cutter for metal cutting (holes.) The 32mm wore out very quickly, but other than that they are very good. I actually like the ridge round the cutter as it stops over penetration. I get mine from ITS-I have a local outlet. The 4-12mm step cutter knocks 10mm hole through struts all day long. I am aiming to have a complete tool kit I can use in my impact driver, especially for metal munching (I do a lot of it.) Already got 17mm and 13mm impact sockets that fit inside struts and it's SO much quicker than loadsa drill bits, spanners, sockets etc. and you WON'T get them undone with a spanner when they're done up this way.
Click to expand...
yes you will get then undone with a spanner, wera joker spaners keep going when my impact driver cant tighten anymore
 
remer1957 said:
just seen this thread-I have a set of the Armeg cutters, great because I use them in my impact driver, along with a 4-12mm step cutter for metal cutting (holes.) The 32mm wore out very quickly, but other than that they are very good. I actually like the ridge round the cutter as it stops over penetration. I get mine from ITS-I have a local outlet. The 4-12mm step cutter knocks 10mm hole through struts all day long. I am aiming to have a complete tool kit I can use in my impact driver, especially for metal munching (I do a lot of it.) Already got 17mm and 13mm impact sockets that fit inside struts and it's SO much quicker than loadsa drill bits, spanners, sockets etc. and you WON'T get them undone with a spanner when they're done up this way.
Click to expand...

Do you ever stop and think maybe you are over tightening things?
All fastenings have an optimum tightening torque, under that and the won't have tensioned properly, over that they begin to stress and weaken the fastening
 
davesparks said:
Do you ever stop and think maybe you are over tightening things?
All fastenings have an optimum tightening torque, under that and the won't have tensioned properly, over that they begin to stress and weaken the fastening
Click to expand...
defiantly true, on trunking you can see it bending when using 8mm bolts if you over tighten it.

on rawl bolts i would rather use a socket set after using impact driver if they use very long bolts
 
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I only use good quality strut (unistrut) which doesn't warp or twist when I tighten it, some of the cheap imitation stuff out there is not suitable for taking the very large panels we mount. A lot of our supplies are quite large cable sizes (50mm upto 240mm SWA) and you can't mount them on anything not fixed rigidly. The channel nuts of unistrut are the same, nearly twice as thick as others. I like to walk away knowing that everything is solid. So, yes, I do think about not over tightening but I am not doing that.
 
shanky887614 said:
yes you will get then undone with a spanner, wera joker spaners keep going when my impact driver cant tighten anymore
Click to expand...

I can't get spanners inside unistrut, unless I use a box spanner or one designed specifically for the job, but my impact wrench and socket fit perfectly. They are done to a similar torque as wheelnuts on a vehicle, which being a weakling I can't undo with a standard spanner, but can get undone with my impact wrench. The impact wrench is very handy for changing a puncture, by the way. I use locking washers on all my fixings too.
 
The impact driver/wrench is so much quicker than spanners and sockets, plus I only need it and some ancillary bits and sockets in a pouch and I'm in business, no socket sets or spanners to lug around.
 
shanky887614 said:
defiantly true, on trunking you can see it bending when using 8mm bolts if you over tighten it.

on rawl bolts i would rather use a socket set after using impact driver if they use very long bolts
Click to expand...

Apart from trays I never drop below 10mm bolts for panel mounting or unistrut work.
 
On the subject of fixings (hope I'm not off topic) I use fixings in concrete that just require a pilot hole, then are put in by the Impact Wrench, though I can't remember what they're called. They are quicker than the usual wedge anchors, though more costly, and don't require the carrying of any setting tool.
 
Thunderbolts them would be :)

I'd be very cautious of using any kind of impact equipment to fit these, the key part of its strength is 1 spiral thread and it creates its own groove, any damage to this cut groove can seriously impair the fixing strength of the bolt.
 
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Another vote for punches I carry a set from 16 to 50 mm cost me £60 had them for 7 years so I would argue they are cheaper than buying holesaws,
however they're only suitable for thin metal !
Re holesaws I use starrett with a quick change arbor I got from cef a few years ago.
 
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