At risk of sounding an idiot..

[JohnnyRingmain]

I went to do a simple job today, change a 5ft tube for an led fitting.

Changed the fittings, wired it, powered up and then nothing. The fitting is definitely working.

Checked the voltage, was around 110v at the fitting. Check the switch and got 230v. Figured it was the switch so I took that out of the equation and still 110v at the fitting. Wired in a ceiling rose with the s/l and neutral and still had the same 110v which disappears under load.

Am I missing something simple? I about ready to pull my hair out.

 

[Pete999]

I went to do a simple job today, change a 5ft tube for an led fitting.

Changed the fittings, wired it, powered up and then nothing. The fitting is definitely working.

Checked the voltage, was around 110v at the fitting. Check the switch and got 230v. Figured it was the switch so I took that out of the equation and still 110v at the fitting. Wired in a ceiling rose with the s/l and neutral and still had the same 110v which disappears under load.

Am I missing something simple? I about ready to pull my hair out.

How many lighting fittings are involved in this issue? you haven't wird the fitting in series with something else have you?

 

[JohnnyRingmain]

Only the one light Pete, nothing else on the circuit.

 

[MDJ]

sounds like you have a neutral issue, the 110 volts is across an open circuit with a load on it, double and treble check connections are correct and tight.

 

[Pete999]

sounds like you have a neutral issue, the 110 volts is across an open circuit with a load on it, double and treble check connections are correct and tight.

How many cables do you have at the light fitting? not wires, cables?

 

[MDJ]

I about ready to pull my hair out.

Think yourself lucky you have some, after 30 years of marriage mine is getting low.

 

[Richard Burns]

Test your voltage L to N (this is presumably your 110V)
Test L to E, if this is 230V then there is a problem with your Neutral connections, if this is 110V then you have a problem with line connections.
Test N to E if you get a significant voltage then, if the L to E was OK at 230V, you have now confirmed a Neutral error.
Getting a voltage less than supply voltage means a drop in voltage over a resistance (i.e. a loose connection only just in contact, if at all).

Measuring Voltage to different reference points should mean you can determine the faulty conductor.
Those testing to 230V should be OK, but which conductor when connected always shows the wrong voltage to any other working reference point.

 

[telectrix]

unless it's a 25kW fitting and causing a huge volt drop..

 

[Marti]

Test your voltage L to N (this is presumably your 110V)
Test L to E, if this is 230V then there is a problem with your Neutral connections, if this is 110V then you have a problem with line connections.

Threads like this are gold dust. Let us know the outcome Johnny.

 

[kris jones]

sounds like you have a neutral issue, the 110 volts is across an open circuit with a load on it, double and treble check connections are correct and tight.

^this!

 

[MJPD29]

Agree with MDJ, sounds like neutral issue

 

[curly]

Well what happened ?

 

[AJshep]

If i were to have a guess i would say the light is 3 plate and the switch live is identified incorrectly.

 

[JohnnyRingmain]

Forgot to update this, was a broken neutral halfway between the switch and light, darned rats!

Thanks again for the help lads.

 

[Pete999]

Forgot to update this, was a broken neutral halfway between the switch and light, darned rats!

Thanks again for the help lads.

Change your Name Johnny to Johnny Ring Final Circuit

 

[MDJ]

Forgot to update this, was a broken neutral halfway .

Yes we know, but thanks for confirming our replies cocker