Discuss Changing socket plates in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Good afternoon all,

I have begun changing the socket plate in the kitchen and am finding it extremely difficult to blindly mate to machine screw into the thread.

Please can someone offer advice or tips?

Thanks!

Andy
 
Good afternoon all,

I have begun changing the socket plate in the kitchen and am finding it extremely difficult to blindly mate to machine screw into the thread.

Please can someone offer advice or tips?

Thanks!

Andy
 
If you are still having trouble, get a rethreading tool like this...Draper Expert Rethreading Tool 3.5 x 0.6mm - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p58127?searchstr=rethreading%20tool
And buy a pack of long machine screws like these Electrical Screw 3.5 x 75mm - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Electrical+Accessories/sd2620/Electrical+Screw/p74658
With these longer screws you can use the extra length to get it started in the hole whilst still being able to see it going in. makes life a bit easier. You can cut them to fit easy enough if they are too long. Quite often if using the existing screws they will have thread that has been worn from the back box so dont screw in as well. new ones often have decent thread that bites in well and holds firm a lot easier. Quite often these days i dont even try to use a lot of the existing ones, you get a sixth sense for whether they are any good or not. I go straight for the new ones and quickly trim to size.
 
Threads are good and screw into the box well when no faceplate is there.
makes me think its a length issue then as once the plate is on with the wires aswell that it might be putting pressure on. try the longer screws i linked to as you will be able to get the screws in a cm or so before the faceplate gets too close to the wall and see whats happening in the back box.
 
Careful using longer screws. You might nip the cables in the box where the original screws didn't... And they may be so long that they reach the back of the box, and are stopped from going in. That's when you need to cut them down.
Easy tool for that is the thin cheap crimpers. Theres a 3.5mm threaded hole you put the screw through when the crimpers are open... Cut them back, then unscrew... It keeps the thread good on the screw rather than just cutting them with pliers or a hacksaw.
 
Pet hate of mine is cutting 3.5 screws. Fine if it's done correctly and well, which I find about 99% of the time it isn't. The badly cut screw then ruins the backbox thread, which makes changing faceplates a job well up on the hate list.

FWIW I carry 25mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, 75mm M3.5 Screws. And just to be sure, extension studs as well.
 
i cut mine with the 3.5mm cutting hole on my NWS cutters. no problems with bad threads.
 
Pet hate of mine is cutting 3.5 screws. Fine if it's done correctly and well, which I find about 99% of the time it isn't. The badly cut screw then ruins the backbox thread, which makes changing faceplates a job well up on the hate list.

FWIW I carry 25mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, 75mm M3.5 Screws. And just to be sure, extension studs as well.

Like yourself, I also carry all the different sizes of screws plus extension studs. But in spite of this I still have to ocassionally cut screws to size. This is where a pair of CK VDE combicutters are a must. They'll easily cut through M3.5 and M4 screws and leave a straight edge every time.
 
If the lugs are well back a long thin bradawl can be a help. With the faceplate away from the wall pass the bradawl through the hole on the faceplate and into the lug, then feed the faceplate down the bradawl and onto the wall, you know it is in the right position then for the screw to find the lug.
 

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