Not happy with this John Lewis design - non compliant.

[Marcus Vaughan]

Just put this light up.

35mm gap between the shade and ceiling - you can get your hand in and touch the chock blocks.

Not right is it.

Not sure I can work around so I guess it’s got to come down.

Not good.

 

[Dustydazzler]

blooming heck that's rough

are you sure that there isn't a piece missing that covers all the bulbs and live gubbins

 

[Marcus Vaughan]

blooming heck that's rough

are you sure that there isn't a piece missing that covers all the bulbs and live gubbins

I thought that as well - but no.
Emptied the box.
Double checked instructions...

 

[Dustydazzler]

How can they sell such carp is beyond me...

If we installed a consumer unit with a hole in the top big enough to fit your entire hand in we would get crucified by the scam inspectors and rightly so

Buts all ok for a retailer to not follow the rules

 

[Zerax]

Just a thought... but are the chock blocks supposed to be in the wall ? If they were, it's basically the same as any other light fitting in that you can touch the lamp holders etc.

 

[Andy78]

Playing devil's avocado, it's not too different, safety wise, to a standard pendant.

BS7671 gives the installer responsibility for the selection and erection of appropriate fittings and materials, so if you don't like it, just say no.

 

[Spoon]

Playing devil's avocado, it's not too different, safety wise, to a standard pendant.

But you can't get to the actual connections (terminals) on a pendant. Looks like you can with this.

 

[Andy78]

But you can't get to the actual connections (terminals) on a pendant. Looks like you can with this.

But you don't need a tool or key to open a pendant base either. Both sets of terminals in both fittings will be IP2X, and I'd assume you can take the glass off to change the lamps in the crappy light fitting so there should be no need for blind fumbling.

Like I say, just offering the opposite argument. I think that fitting is dire.

 

[snowhead]

I'm with Andy78 on this.
The choc block / terminals should be safe to touch whether the glass is on or not.

You can see the cables on this one and it's a third the price of Jonh Lewis and probably made in the same factory;

Frosted Leaf Pattern Flush Ceiling Light

Frosted Leaf Pattern Flush Ceiling Light This flush ceiling light is a great addition to any room needing a simple modern fix Ideal for rooms with low ceilings due to its shallow height Requires one 28W ES/E27 bulb or LED equivalent

www.valuelights.co.uk

 

[Marcus Vaughan]

I’ve taken it down. It’s not compliant.

I wasn’t happy with it, and have an understanding customer happy to pay for my time. I’m sure she’ll let John Lewis know.
I think I might send them an e-mail.

 

[James]

I don’t like it but if the instructions say it is suitable for the environment and position it is in then it is compliant?

CE marked I presume.

 

[ferg]

It is presumably compliant in the same way that 240v track lighting is.

If you cant get a B.S. finger in it then it's compliant.

Agree with above comments RE. not being able to touch live parts of terminal block with fingers.

However I also agree with above comments that it's a POS and should not have been made that way, the same reason I don't like 240v track lighting.

 

[Deleted account]

I’ve refused to fit many lights I don’t like the look of safety wise.
These so called double insulated lights that have a skimpy bit of rubber tubing to fit your cables in that makes it double insulated.
I really don’t understand how they ( manufacturers ) get away with it.

Of topic a bit. I was called out to a dimples plug in heater that was overheating the socket.
How can you get a plug in anything that is 3 kw?
I get there and I couldn’t touch the plug it was so hot.
The heater was 3 kw on a plug. I tried to explain how in my opinion it was not compliant, but found it difficult as it has its CE mark and I looked it up on line and yes it’s sold with a plug.

 

[PEG]

I’ve refused to fit many lights I don’t like the look of safety wise.
These so called double insulated lights that have a skimpy bit of rubber tubing to fit your cables in that makes it double insulated.
I really don’t understand how they ( manufacturers ) get away with it.

Of topic a bit. I was called out to a dimples plug in heater that was overheating the socket.
How can you get a plug in anything that is 3 kw?
I get there and I couldn’t touch the plug it was so hot.
The heater was 3 kw on a plug. I tried to explain how in my opinion it was not compliant, but found it difficult as it has its CE mark and I looked it up on line and yes it’s sold with a plug.

....you can if you add 0.7 to the calcs?

Must admit,i've seen a few items on a plug top,with stated 3Kw....had a few fronty tech replies about clamping during use...usually say i will plug it on on the test-bench....when i find my oven-glove?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

How can you get a plug in anything that is 3 kw?

3000/230=13. The BS1363 plug was intended to be able to supply a 3kW load, its Wylex competitor even had '3kW' moulded into the bakelite lid. Once upon a time, many heating loads were 3kW, but at the same time the reputable brands of socket had contacts made of real metal and plugs had fuse clips that the fuse really clipped into. These days a 13A socket is often only any good for 10A, which is a pity because Swiss 10A sockets are often quite adequate for 13A.

At home I have a 3kW radiant fire from the 1960s plugged into an MK socket of similar age, where it has been plugged since before I was born. I don't use it much but I remember it on for hours on cold winter nights before the house had central heating. The plug runs faintly warm to the touch.

 

[pirate]

I have 2 fan heaters, each is 3kw, with a 13A plug. They have those rocker switches allowing 1kw, 2kw or 3kw options. Never been a problem and they are 30 years old.
Just saying...

 

[Marcus Vaughan]

But you can't get to the actual connections (terminals) on a pendant. Looks like you can with this.

Yes you can.
[automerge]1570772849[/automerge]

But you don't need a tool or key to open a pendant base either. Both sets of terminals in both fittings will be IP2X, and I'd assume you can take the glass off to change the lamps in the crappy light fitting so there should be no need for blind fumbling.

Like I say, just offering the opposite argument. I think that fitting is dire.

Good to hear the opposite argument, and I did try to convince myself to ‘let it go’ and leave it be, but my way of thinking is that if you are having to work hard to persuade yourself something’s OK probably isn’t the right way to approach things.

I think the original standard pendant was safer, as there is no need to undo the rose to change a lightbulb.

With this ‘flush light’, if installed badly (copper showing or loose cable popping out of choc bloc etc) then there is an (admittedly) small chance of getting a belt when changing a bulb.

I’d probably give it a code 3.

I didn’t want to leave the installation in a worse place then I found it.

I’ve sent an email to John Lewis - see what happens. I noted even their own customer reviews mentioned ‘can see electrical connections’.

Thanks all for contributing.