Discuss One Confused Builder. Maybe a fun one for trainees.... in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

timhoward

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A builder friend calls me up to have a look at a "strange situation".
He points at a joint box above and outside a back door. "Old outside light?" I ask.
He's extended this into a new conservatory. "That's probably switched" I guess. "No I found a permanent live" he said.
He's run it into a light switch. The Blue wire is showing 230v to earth. The brown wire is showing nothing at all. Blue to Brown also show nothing.
The joint box isn't of interest, it's just black -> blue, red -> brown, cpc -> cpc and all good connections.

I look for evidence of a former switch and find a nearby 2 gang switch with only one switch connected. There's also a single black wire with a choc block.
1666096758581.png


The switch that's connected is for the kitchen light. Neither the red nor the black connected to the switch show any voltage with a 1 pole tester, a 2 pole tester to a known good earth, or using a non contact tester (volt stick). That applies in either switch position.
The loose black in the chock block shows continuity to the builders extended brown wire that was previously mentioned.

Yet the kitchen light works and switches on and off. All tools used work.
What might you suspect and how would you proceed to test and prove it?

I'm sure the usual crowd could answer very quickly, maybe a trainee wants to have a think about what they would do next in this real life example of it all going a bit off script?
 
Not getting my head around this at all.

If I follow correctly you have a blue wire at the joint box, with 230V to earth and nothing at the brown in this joint box and these extend to a new conservatory.

No power at all at the 2 gang switch you found, nor at the black connected behind it. This black is connected to the brown at the joint box and this switch operates the kitchen light, despite no power in either position.


Has polarity been reversed in new cable and neutral is being switched for kitchen light?
 
Not getting my head around this at all.

If I follow correctly you have a blue wire at the joint box, with 230V to earth and nothing at the brown in this joint box and these extend to a new conservatory.

No power at all at the 2 gang switch you found, nor at the black connected behind it. This black is connected to the brown at the joint box and this switch operates the kitchen light, despite no power in either position.


Has polarity been reversed in new cable and neutral is being switched for kitchen light?
You got it, I admit for just a moment it threw me that the light worked yet there was no electricity….!
The light just had the final supply, the joints were all inaccessible.
The new cable was colour matched, the polarity swap was upstream somewhere.
I proved it by plugging the MFT socket lead into Live and Earth and putting a Neutral probe onto the light switch (having checked they were all sharing an RCD in case)

Simple! but one for the trainees to have a go at!
Here's a hint:
M-G-C
Oh dear - the hint is lost on me!
 
You got it, I admit for just a moment it threw me that the light worked yet there was no electricity….!
The light just had the final supply, the joints were all inaccessible.
I proved it by plugging the MFT socket lead into Live and Earth and putting a Neutral probe onto the light switch (having checked they were all sharing an RCD in case)


Oh dear - the hint is lost on me!

Looked at the thread earlier and couldn't follow it on my phone screen, so figured it best to wait until home as it would be easier to read on the laptop.... after reading through three times I still couldn't focus my mind on the words and typing it out as a question made the answer seem obvious.

Plain old blind luck that there wasn't any other obvious cause 😁


As for M-G-C? I haven't got a clue, but it serves as a reminder that my garden is indeed crap.
 
I'm not a fan of ordinary words being truncated by removing the vowels, but it's so common nowadays.
My comment was tongue-in-cheek and maybe if I had written "MGC" some might have twigged immediately!
 
I'm not a fan of ordinary words being truncated by removing the vowels, but it's so common nowadays.
My comment was tongue-in-cheek and maybe if I had written "MGC" some might have twigged immediately!

I'm probably having a thick moment, but I still don't get it. Feel free to take the mick 😀😄
 
The switch that's connected is for the kitchen light. Neither the red nor the black connected to the switch show any voltage with a 1 pole tester, a 2 pole tester to a known good earth, or using a non contact tester (volt stick). That applies in either switch position.
I might have missed something here, but if it's switching the neutral, wouldn't one side of the switch be live when the switch is open?
 
I might have missed something here, but if it's switching the neutral, wouldn't one side of the switch be live when the switch is open?
Indeed, I was expecting the same, but none of the above tools were detecting it! It was an old style 100w incandescent light bulb so roughly 500 ohms upstream resistance, I think.
I could measure 240v using MFT and 2 pole from a socket live to one of the switch terminals, and the non contact showed the bulb holder live at all times (light on or off) so I'm fairly sure I arrived at right conclusion.
It would be interesting to understand the limitations of a Fluke 2 pole tester though.
 
Indeed, I was expecting the same, but none of the above tools were detecting it! It was an old style 100w incandescent light bulb so roughly 500 ohms upstream resistance, I think.
I could measure 240v using MFT and 2 pole from a socket live to one of the switch terminals, and the non contact showed the bulb holder live at all times (light on or off) so I'm fairly sure I arrived at right conclusion.
It would be interesting to understand the limitations of a Fluke 2 pole tester though.
Only a limitation of the tester in the sense that presumably it doesn't measure voltages below 12v (haven't got a fluke so wouldn't know for certain) - unless TT the voltage to earth at that point in the circuit would surely only be a couple of volts and probably less with a 500 ohm load. Of course the voltage at that point would change if you increased the resistance after it.
 

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