Discuss SDS issue? in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Been using my sds hammer drill last weekend drilling a core hole. just a milwaukee cordless one
Had a few issues with the core bit - jammed now and again, was a bit of a pig
but I come to use my drill again today and it seems that something is slightly bent (chuck maybe?)
I only think that because i put in a drill bit and it seemed to sorta spiral around a bit and wandered a bit... u know like if u've got a bent bit or something
so i tried some other bits but still the same.
I know diamond core drilling doesn't do an sds any favours but just wondering if it was possible to bend something???
Anyone had this before?
 
Core drilling might not do a battery drill any favours.
What model drill, what size core, and did you have it on percussion mode ?
 
Core drilling might not do a battery drill any favours.
What model drill, what size core, and did you have it on percussion mode ?
Yes that is what i wondered.
It was the M18CHX-0 M18 FUEL™ 1" SDS Plus Rotary Hammer (Tool Only) - https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Concrete/SDS-Plus/2712-20
It was a 65mm core, and no i was just drillling, no hammer.
It has a pretty good overload function on it so it did keep cutting out.
It was the first time i had used it for core holes - normally use a good old bosch 110v but i didnt have it on me
I have also seen my friends use their dewalt sds's to drill cores without a problem...so it leaves me intrigued
 
Yes that is what i wondered.
It was the M18CHX-0 M18 FUEL™ 1" SDS Plus Rotary Hammer (Tool Only) - https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Concrete/SDS-Plus/2712-20
It was a 65mm core, and no i was just drillling, no hammer.
It has a pretty good overload function on it so it did keep cutting out.
It was the first time i had used it for core holes - normally use a good old bosch 110v but i didnt have it on me
I have also seen my friends use their dewalt sds's to drill cores without a problem...so it leaves me intrigued

Hmm that's the drill I have and it's pretty good usually. I wouldn't use it for coring that said. I use a large, cheap, shitty B&Q drill for stuff like that.

You could try the standard chuck in it to see if the problem is in the sds chuck or in the fixtec interface.
 
Hmm that's the drill I have and it's pretty good usually. I wouldn't use it for coring that said. I use a large, cheap, shitty B&Q drill for stuff like that.

You could try the standard chuck in it to see if the problem is in the sds chuck or in the fixtec interface.
Yes a good drill to be honest. Yes, good advice.
Yes i will try using the standard chuck and see what happens next

Thanks
 
Hi,if good,straight bits are not concentric,then there is something wrong...

The cage of the SDS drive tube,may be damaged,or the locking balls/mechanism,may be worn or damaged.

Does the release collar,still lock and release,in the same positions? This can indicate a problem.

There are repair kits available,for SDS assemblies,but these do not include the drive shaft/cage,which is a main component.

Just as an extra...the electrical cut-out,on your drill,is intended as an emergency device,to prevent damage. It is not a substitute,for the clutch,a core-capable drill,possesses.

You can do some big asks,with smaller kit,but it is wholly dependant,on consistent alignment,and debris removal. I have a small,Hilti 14v combi,and have used a Starrett hole-saw,to cut 30mm holes through 1" steel plate,so i'm not against lighting a fire with sticks ;)
 
From my now experience, I would not use any sds to drill a core hole.

And also from my experience, I managed to burn out my sons core drill (corded), drilling a 65mm hole into some hard bricks.

He came round and insisted on drilling the reminder, with the replacement core drill I bought him. He struggled as well.

All depends on what your drilling into.
 
I often use my M18CHPX to drill 117mm cores with no problems, gets a bit warm, but so do mains voltage drills. The trick is to keep clearing the dust from the hole to stop binding up.
 
There are two common ways to damage the chuck alignment of a drill, excessive hammering duration which can soften the bearing housing and it become misaligned and sets again out of true or a heavy duty bit like a core bit grabbing and stopping dead, even with torque drop out active a grab with a high inertia bit can cause damage, this often is caused by yourself reacting to the grab and jerking the drill, on smaller bits it tends to just bend the bit itself but on big solid bulky bits it transfers the damage to the chuck or drill bearings, if you have a chuck convertor from sds to standard grip then the weak spot is the sds screw on adaptor at the back of the chuck, these do bend as I have done a few over the decades and you should be able to just unscrew the back sds rod and replace it but note its thread is in reverse so remove it by turning the opposite way to normal.
[automerge]1587853058[/automerge]
If you're lucky you may have bent this shaft on a chuck adaptor so get another one of these shafts as seen in the first pic.
1587852983503.png
1587853006127.png

[automerge]1587853440[/automerge]
PS - if you use a proper powered core drill of old back in the day then you often found when the drill bit grabbed the drill started turning until your body had time to react and let go of the trigger... it was a easy route to muscle and tendon damage when them bugger core drills grabbed, torque drop out is a blessing on modern drills and most of you will never appreciate the pain we endured.
 
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