Storage heaters wiring

[Alexandru]

Hi everyone.

I'm seeking advice to know if I have a separate circuit to install the storage heaters. I have attached photos with the supply and cables, all that I can see.
I know that the supply is an Economy 7 with dual tariff on it.

Thank you!

 

[Richard Burns]

You have a twin rate meter that changes over all the power to E7 rate at the appropriate times.
Storage heaters would need to be set up with timers to come on when the E7 is on.

 

[Alexandru]

Thank you for your accurate description, it was as I thought. Can I please have some examples of timers I can install and also can I just hook up the storage heaters to the a socket wiring?
http://www.storageheater.co.uk/robinson-willey-1/rw14-4/rw14-493-6.html these are the heaters that I'm going to use (2.55KW).

 

[Octopus]

Fixed equipment over 2KW should be on seperate circuit(s)

 

[Alexandru]

Fixed equipment over 2KW should be on seperate circuit(s)

Can they be put on the same circuit as the cooker? As I believe the cooker is on a different circuit due to high cosumption.

 

[Octopus]

Can they be put on the same circuit as the cooker? As I believe the cooker is on a different circuit due to high cosumption.

Seperate, means dedicated for the device.

Attaching extra devices to your oven circuit is NOT recommended, nor safe.

Time to call a competent spark?

 

[Alexandru]

Seperate, means dedicated for the device.

Attaching extra devices to your oven circuit is NOT recommended, nor safe.

Time to call a competent spark?

Yes it is. Thank you for your help!

 

[7029 dave]

Fit an dedicated off peak board for your off peak circuits (storage heaters), and get that 4 terminal key meter changed for a 5 terminal.

 

[Engineer54]

From what i can see from your Mantel electrical cupboard you have 1 X 30A socket circuit, 1 X 30A cooker circuit, 2 X 5A lighting circuits, 1 X 15A emersion heater, and probably one spare 15A fuse.

If you are planning to have electric storage heating within your home you'll need a second timed CU to control the storage heaters, eg, ....1 storage heater per 15/16A circuit breaker (fuse). If you are thinking about doing this work yourself think very seriously again. Employ a qualified electrician to undertake this installation work, as all work involved is notifiable to the LABC, which if you undertake yourself will cost you upto 300 quid before you start. No such fee applies to registered electricians.

 

[Darkwood]

Whoever does it may have fun removing the lid off the existing DB if they need to go into it...:juggle2:

 

[SPARTYKUS]

Whoever does it may have fun removing the lid off the existing DB if they need to go into it...:juggle2:

Ha! The number of times I have seen that! Wht do chippys love boxing fuseboxes in. I love crowbarring their creations off.

 

[Octopus]

I still chuckle when I remember this one! I had to drill a hole in the wood work to get at the screws:

 

[wildgoose]

Before you start thinking of storage heaters shouldn't your priority be having 'professionally removed', that old 3036 Mantel fuseboard and a new wylex dual rcd board fitted as a replacement? You'll then get spare cavities for future upgrades or additions.

Then you can think about storage heaters and alternative meters!

 

[Engineer54]

Whoever does it may have fun removing the lid off the existing DB if they need to go into it...:juggle2:

Absolute doddle!! As far as i remember remove all the Wylex 3036 fuses from the carriers undo i think two machine screws and the front paxoline type cover can be removed from it's position.....

 

[dingledong]

Murdoch shouldn't this be in show us your installs
He he

 

[wildgoose]

Not all that straight forwards because of the original integral metal base plate!
This must be removed before the new skeleton assy can fit in. You do this by looking for the spotweld marks and then carefully drill them out just on the welds. The base plate should then pop off with a little levering.

So yes if the welds are clearly visible, then it's not such a big deal but if you can't locate them or for some reason it won't lever off, then it' become a mare!
Once this piece is out, then the new board assy will fit in!

 

[Alexandru]

Decided not to touch that old CU and just installed a new one ( BG 100A 10-Way Consumer Unit | Departments | DIY at B&Q ) on top of the cupboard. I have installed the storage heaters in the rooms, runned the cables to the new CU (secured them in trunking ) and connected them via Timers ( Timeguard SupplyMaster 24 Hour Fused Spur Timeswitch - Trading Depot ). Now my problem is I can't turn off the power to remove the mains from the old CU and connect them to the new one, and after that run the rest of the cables. Can the power be turned of from the Electriciy Service Head or from the actual meter?

 

[Darkwood]

Decided not to touch that old CU and just installed a new one ( BG 100A 10-Way Consumer Unit | Departments | DIY at B&Q ) on top of the cupboard. I have installed the storage heaters in the rooms, runned the cables to the new CU (secured them in trunking ) and connected them via Timers ( Timeguard SupplyMaster 24 Hour Fused Spur Timeswitch - Trading Depot ). Now my problem is I can't turn off the power to remove the mains from the old CU and connect them to the new one, and after that run the rest of the cables. Can the power be turned of from the Electriciy Service Head or from the actual meter?

You say you have run your cables through trunking, is this one trunking with multiple cables in or have you run them all in separate trunkings?
What is length of run and size of cable used?

Because your doing this without seemingly without any real Electrical knowledge then how have you calculated what size cable to use, its not just a matter of running a given size because it says it can carry that ampage, your installation methods have derating factors due to the methods you chose and must be accounted for before wiring.

You cannot isolate the mains as the meter and service fuse are not your property so it would be illegal to do so, the correct method would be to tail up your new board ready to be conected into the meter and contact your Electricity provider about making the change over for you and re-sealing the meter and cutout.

As you are wiring new circuits, how are you going to test these circuits and write them up, the testing is crucial for the safety of yourself and family and may show up issues you were unaware of, its not a matter of it looks alright its essential you test before energising. Its great saving a buck or two but at what risk.

Not saying what you have done is incorrect so far but DIY should stop at changing light fittings and socket tops, when designing and wiring new circuits a lot of calculations and regulations have to be adhered to and its clear that you have been given a few basic requirements already that you were unaware of so Im unsure as to how you have designed your circuit ?

 

[Alexandru]

You say you have run your cables through trunking, is this one trunking with multiple cables in or have you run them all in separate trunkings?
What is length of run and size of cable used?

Because your doing this without seemingly without any real Electrical knowledge then how have you calculated what size cable to use, its not just a matter of running a given size because it says it can carry that ampage, your installation methods have derating factors due to the methods you chose and must be accounted for before wiring.

You cannot isolate the mains as the meter and service fuse are not your property so it would be illegal to do so, the correct method would be to tail up your new board ready to be conected into the meter and contact your Electricity provider about making the change over for you and re-sealing the meter and cutout.

As you are wiring new circuits, how are you going to test these circuits and write them up, the testing is crucial for the safety of yourself and family and may show up issues you were unaware of, its not a matter of it looks alright its essential you test before energising. Its great saving a buck or two but at what risk.

Not saying what you have done is incorrect so far but DIY should stop at changing light fittings and socket tops, when designing and wiring new circuits a lot of calculations and regulations have to be adhered to and its clear that you have been given a few basic requirements already that you were unaware of so Im unsure as to how you have designed your circuit ?

Separate trunking, 2.5mm 3 way cable, storage heaters 2-2,5m from the CU. Testing will be done by a qualified electrician. I do have an electrician background it just comes from a different system ( i'm from Romania) were we never use storage heaters. I have done a research and understood how they work. The only problem as I said normally there should be a main switch outside of the flat from where you can cut the power and safely work inside your home. And about my family safety, don't question it. I've asked a simple question as I'm new to the UK system. Thank you

 

[Darkwood]

Separate trunking, 2.5mm 3 way cable, storage heaters 2-2,5m from the CU. Testing will be done by a qualified electrician. I do have an electrician background it just comes from a different system ( i'm from Romania) were we never use storage heaters. I have done a research and understood how they work. The only problem as I said normally there should be a main switch outside of the flat from where you can cut the power and safely work inside your home. And about my family safety, don't question it. I've asked a simple question as I'm new to the UK system. Thank you

As you give little detail of your background we have to judge your experience by the nature of your post so don't take offense if we are over cautious and may seem to state the obvious, unfortunately most properties in the UK do not have the isolator option and the legitimate way is to contact the Electrical supplier to swap the tails over but they will sting you money wise, with the correct PPE gear and tools a competent Electrician may install a Henley block (joint box for tails) and cut and connect into the Henley block live then connect your new tails into the joint, this should be just a callout cost but its an H&S area that some members on here would be against, personally I think the word competence and preperation is key here and can be done quite safely.