Using pre installed cooker circuit for 13amp or 16amp oven.

[brianmoooore]

Connection unit is OK behind a built in cooker, as long as there's room for it, and it's not in line with any vent the oven has.

 

[Dartlec]

Yes at moment cooker connection is behind cooker but we are changing it from a freestanding to built in one so it will still be behind oven but oven will be in built in unit will this be ok or as I best asking electrician to move it to the side in one of the cupboards.

That's fine - I assume the existing isolation switch will still be accessible?

 

[Mark armitage]

That's fine - I assume the existing isolation switch will still be accessible?

Yes the cooker switch is above the laminate worktop then it goes to cooker plate behind oven.

 

[Mark armitage]

Was just speaking with wife and she doesn't really like cooker switch on show was just thinking could we get it disconnected and put it in drawer unit next to oven instead of cooker plate so the isolation switch was out of sight or do we still need cooker plate connection as well?

 

[brianmoooore]

Very poor practice to put an isolator out of sight.

 

[Dartlec]

It's meant to be easily accessible so that it can be turned off if something happens, such as the oven catching fire or sparking - sometimes people consider putting it in a cupboard acceptable but if there is already one above the worktop I would say it should stay there. You can get nicer looking ones if that is an issue - or reduce it from a double width with socket, to a single switch.

At the very least it needs to be at the front of a cupboard clearly accessible, not where you'd have to reach around or over the oven to get to it and not behind the contents of the cupboard....

 

[Mark armitage]

Thanks for all info I have much clearer idea now. Yes it's just a white cooker switch have never like it but now we're getting it done will leave it were it is and change it for Chrome. Just got last of units out and looking now not sure if there be enough room for cooker connection plate to stay were it is once kitchen unit and oven is in place is it ok to put connection plate inside cupboard screwed to cupboard with a drywall box.

 

[Dartlec]

Thanks for all info I have much clearer idea now. Yes it's just a white cooker switch have never like it but now we're getting it done will leave it were it is and change it for Chrome. Just got last of units out and looking now not sure if there be enough room for cooker connection plate to stay were it is once kitchen unit and oven is in place is it ok to put connection plate inside cupboard screwed to cupboard with a drywall box.

As long as the back of the cupboard is strong enough to hold it and not the thin plywood, that's fine - it doesn't need to be accessed once the cover is back on until the next inspection or change of oven. Only issue may be routing of cables, but electrician tomorrow should be able to work out the easiest way to do it and still keep things correct...

 

[Mark armitage]

Thanks electrician came out said was ok to keep everything how it is. Just got to wait for oven to be delivered to see what cable oven is supplied with to determine weather it be best to change mcb from 32mcb to 16mcb. Said if it was thinner cable be best to change mcb.I asked about changing 45a cooker switch to 20a as was smaller oven he said no need as 45a is its maximum it will work at lower. Does that sound about right?

 

[Dartlec]

Thanks electrician came out said was ok to keep everything how it is. Just got to wait for oven to be delivered to see what cable oven is supplied with to determine weather it be best to change mcb from 32mcb to 16mcb. Said if it was thinner cable be best to change mcb.I asked about changing 45a cooker switch to 20a as was smaller oven he said no need as 45a is its maximum it will work at lower. Does that sound about right?

That all sounds fine - the rating of the switch is purely the maximum current it can take so there is no benefit in reducing it. The existing 6mm cable might well be a struggle in most 20A switches anyway..

 

[Mark armitage]

Hi again so oven came today it's has a flex cable on it. It's stamped H05VV-F 3G 1.5. so guessing it's a 1.5mm cable. will a 1.5mm cable be ok to be connected to connection plate that is in wall and just changed MCB to 16amp or would I need get electrician to change cable to 2.5mm as well. Cheers

 

[brianmoooore]

If the oven is supplied with 1.5mm2 cable, then that is fine. If it came without cable, and I was installing it, I'd fit 2.5mm2 by preference, if I thought the terminals would accept it.

 

[Mark armitage]

If the oven is supplied with 1.5mm2 cable, then that is fine. If it came without cable, and I was installing it, I'd fit 2.5mm2 by preference, if I thought the terminals would accept it.

Thanks I did look at 1.5mm amp ratings and some said has rating of 15amp is that true? Would it be better to fit 13amp fuse spur switch to protect cooker cable or not?

 

[brianmoooore]

1.5mm2 cable is within its rating at room temp., but it's likely to be a bit warmer than that behind an oven in an enclosure.
The cable does NOT need protecting against overload, only against short circuit, which the MCB in the CU will do.
Do not run this oven through a 13A fuse for the reasons mentioned earlier in the thread.

 

[Mark armitage]

Thanks for all your help just wanted double check the 1.5mm would still be in 16amp rating were it's warmer behind the oven in a enclosure then?as only installation instructions I could find were from Curry's and of hisense website and they both said hard wire to 13amp fuse spur. Which seems strange for reasons mentioned here. There were no installation instructions with oven only that it was 3.3kw.