Discuss wiring downstairs light circuits in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

The regs say (correct me if I'm wrong) that floating junction boxes need to have strain relief at the cable entry points. Daz
Ok understand......So when doing recessed LEDs say with 2 x cables at each fitting, are fittings designed to terminate both cables direct or best via j/box at each and every fitting?
 
The regs say (correct me if I'm wrong) that floating junction boxes need to have strain relief at the cable entry points. Daz

That is one that doesn't make sense to me. You would have thought it more likely for a fixed JB to need strain relief if cables pulled?
 
That is one that doesn't make sense to me. You would have thought it more likely for a fixed JB to need strain relief if cables pulled?

Eh? If the junction box is loose and floating then it can move about, thus loosening cables. Think about it!! Daz
 
Eh? If the junction box is loose and floating then it can move about, thus loosening cables. Think about it!! Daz

Just my opinion as to a flaw in regs in that unless a fixed JB has cables clipped (easily pulled out) to entry points, the strain relief is more important. Also, it's always fixed JB's that get damaged/lids broke off.
 
Just my opinion as to a flaw in regs in that unless a fixed JB has cables clipped (easily pulled out) to entry points, the strain relief is more important. Also, it's always fixed JB's that get damaged/lids broke off.

It's not a flaw in the regs though - they say that fixed wiring should be just that - fixed! Daz
 
It's not a flaw in the regs though - they say that fixed wiring should be just that - fixed! Daz

I see your point Daz, movement, metal fatigue, movement loosening connections etc., it's just my view and as said in another post, D/L connectors are provided. Some have no strain relief but are far more likely to suffer 'movement'
 
Agreed that it takes time to move a mountain (so to speak) but I think you'd find the front counters of a wholesalers an eye opener!

You may well be right, and as i say (contrary to what others may think), i have no problem having a neutral conductor at a switch position when it's required. What i don't like and would never contemplate using myself, is looping through the switches, especially within domestic installations!!
 
You may well be right, and as i say (contrary to what others may think), i have no problem having a neutral conductor at a switch position when it's required. What i don't like and would never contemplate using myself, is looping through the switches, especially within domestic installations!!
Generally speaking, the times that I'll loop at switch in domestic is if the place is littered with wall lights, small fittings etc where you just know that you'll struggle to find space to lose the loop and S/L and really just need one cable at the point. Rather than litter the joists with joints, plan ahead and fit deeper boxes at the switches and sensible cable drops. But then I also only tend to use 1mm TE for standard domestic lx ccts so you've that little bit more flexibility again to be neat and tidy. It does use more cable that way, though.
 

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