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Ponty Massive

I've got a job coming up which I need to install 7 extract fans. Is it worth investing in a core bit?

Any of you use them or just do it the old fashion way?.
 
If I ever need 1, I hire it from a tool hire shop. No point buying 1 if your not going to use it a lot.
 
pilot holes and 10kg hammer drill and just add water to bag to make cement
 
I would imagine that it will pay for its self with in the first three or four with the time saved on that job alone ?
Just make sure the apprentice does not stick it on hammer "cause it will speed it up" , WRONG answer !!!!!!!!!:nonod:
 
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I've seen them advertised in screwfix for about £60, just wanted to know if they work well?
 
Yes , we have several complete sets and it is not unusual to go back to the stores to find them all out on jobs when they are needed else where !
I would say go for the more expensive set with four or five different sizes in as we find it is not just the 4" that is useful .
I think CEF do a set for around £120 + vat
 
i have a set which is ok and have had alot of use out of it, i use my 2kg bosch sds drill ,but you really need a bigger drill .wouldn't do 7 on the trot it would burn out,
if your drilling from inside out and the property is lived in hire one with the hover attachment saves alot of tidying up
 
I've seen them advertised in screwfix for about £60, just wanted to know if they work well?

I've got the blue ones from Screwfix. I've done about 20 holes with my 105mm now and it is getting a bit slow in hard brick. It's still okay in softer materials, so I'm going to get a new one and use that on the harder stuff. Might as well wear out the old one completely and get best value from it.

I charge my customers an extra £10 per hole to cover use of the core bit and wear and tear on the drill (Bosch DRE 26-2). Cheaper than hiring (per hole) and cover my costs, so everyone happy.
 
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I've done a couple by stitch drilling and knocking out. But I've done a hell of a lot more with core drill and diamond cutter there is really no contest. Not used them before but tct core bit worth having a look at?
 
I've done a couple by stitch drilling and knocking out. But I've done a hell of a lot more with core drill and diamond cutter there is really no contest. Not used them before but tct core bit worth having a look at?

Only if you want to knacker a good drill !
When we first started out as DPE money was obviously tight and diamond bits were rare to the common man , we lost three good main brand drills to tct core drills !
 
I don't "do" that much domestic, but I still have found it worth while getting a "proper" set of core drills (Rothenberger) and a core drilling machine, (Bosch), well worth the investment.
 
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Only if you want to knacker a good drill !
When we first started out as DPE money was obviously tight and diamond bits were rare to the common man , we lost three good main brand drills to tct core drills !


Take that as a not worth looking at then. My Bosch core drill I also use for drilling out my new build joists, glides through with a nice auger bit. It now has two uses so you have an excuse to buy one.
 
Just reread the thread , i took tct core drills to mean the type before diamonds became popular and are the one's with what could almost be described as big teeth at the cutting edge welded in about every 10mm and were used with the hammer on .
Sorry if that is not what you meant by tct and i have confused the matter ?:35:
 
Yep there the ones. One of the sparks on the last site I was on used to use them. Suppose it was all new build with lightweight block.
 
I've got the blue ones from Screwfix. I've done about 20 holes with my 105mm now and it is getting a bit slow in hard brick. It's still okay in softer materials, so I'm going to get a new one and use that on the harder stuff. Might as well wear out the old one completely and get best value from it.

I charge my customers an extra £10 per hole to cover use of the core bit and wear and tear on the drill (Bosch DRE 26-2). Cheaper than hiring (per hole) and cover my costs, so everyone happy.

If your core bits are slowing down in hard brick find or buy a cinder / breeze block and run the core bit through it to deglaze the diamond cutting edge I was told that by a hire shop manager many years ago and they have blocks in the yard to deglaze the hire bits to stop complaints if the previous hirer has polished the diamond in a hard wall

I've done a couple by stitch drilling and knocking out. But I've done a hell of a lot more with core drill and diamond cutter there is really no contest. Not used them before but tct core bit worth having a look at?

TCT bits are best used with a medium to large rotary hammer with a built in clutch, small machines fail very quickly with TCT core bits. There is also more risk of injury with TCT cores in my opinion when they jam

For the few TCT bits I have when drilling stuff the diamond cores won't touch I have one of these MAKITA HR3850K ROTARY DEMOLITION HAMMER BREAKER 110v on eBay!it's 20+ years old but still does a good job when needed but a little bit heavy to use it all day


For diamond cores I use a Makita 8406 with various diameters of diamond core bits, Have done a fair number of holes with it over the last 10 years so it has been worth the investment

It's worth buying a machine that is designed to be used with core drills as they are a bit more powerful and have a clutch that reduces the risk of being thrown off a ladder or possibly a broken wrist if the core bit jams
 
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Buy the best quality you can afford. I can recommend "Norton" as I used these a lot in the past. Last year I was unable to obtain "Norton" from my supplier, in the sizes I required for a particular job, I decided to give "Marcrist" a try, what a revelation! Absolutely superb, speedy and efficient cutting, used either wet or dry. I've cut nearly a hundred holes with a "Marcrist" 117 x 165 CCU850X and still have well defined sharp diamond lands.

Core drills generally come in two forms: - 1) The conventional chuck type takes a hex arbour. 2) The threaded tool holder type takes a screw fit arbour. The former, allow you the flexibility of a standard drill. The later, higher torque of a direct drive at the expense of more laboured tool changing.
Of the chuck type the Makita 8406 is fine example, offerings from Dewalt and Bosch are better, but my personal favourite is the Milwaukee DD2-160XE, the Hilti DD120 and 130 being the firm favourites with the majority of my work mates.
Direct drive types are the professional choice however. The Marcrist DDM2 and DDM3 allow wet and dry cutting at fixed speeds. I have never felt the need for variable speeds when using one of these, I find them remarkably efficient when paired with the same make of core cutter, but a few of my colleagues prefer to use the Milwaukee or Hilti models.

What ever you choose to buy, don’t be tempted to use an SDS drill to drive a large core cutter. The SDS tool holder is very inefficient when used in the hammer stop mode, a large core drill will quickly stress and wear the tool holder and ultimately destroy a SDS if it does not have thermal protection.

If you suspect your drill of getting excessively hot, stop drilling, switch to the max speed range and run it flat out for least 5 minutes in free air to allow the motor fan to cool the windings.
 
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quick tip with core drills when they slow down,hit the diamond bit with an old file so it puts a few dents in it and the cutter is good as new.told to me by a chap who has a company that just does drilling and saved me a load.
 
Hilti DD-110 for me eats through walls, just a little bit cumbersome in tight spots especially with the vacuum cleaner chuck. core bits are 430mm long too so no extension bars needed. REMS do some nice bits too and are half the price of Hilti
 

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