mschoonmaker
DIY
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In my kitchen, I have 1 circuit with a total of 5 outlets (backsplash), and it appears to have a dedicated neutral which is connected to a Square D Homeline issue AE-70 20A combo AFCI/GFCI breaker in my panel.
I have a Miele espresso maker on this circuit. Occasionally but not always (maybe 5%-10% of the time), when the espresso maker's pump goes on, the circuit trips requiring a reset at the panel.
I've recently added a Breville countertop toaster oven to this circuit. Last night, when the toaster over was on a lower setting (300*F) after about 1-2 mins, the circuit would trip.
TODAY, I pulled the combo AFCI/GFCI breaker and put in a standard SqD Homeline issue DP-4075 20A (non-GFCI) breaker to get a sense if the device(s) were pulling too much current. I then ran my toaster over up to broil (500*F) and ran for 10 minutes straight, no issues. Of course, code says kitchen outlets need to be GFCI at least.
I'm wondering if simply replacing my combo AFCI/GFCI breaker will resolve this issue. As one might expect, the replacement combo breaker is 10x the cost of the standard breaker, which I don't mind paying IF this resolves the issue.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!
I have a Miele espresso maker on this circuit. Occasionally but not always (maybe 5%-10% of the time), when the espresso maker's pump goes on, the circuit trips requiring a reset at the panel.
I've recently added a Breville countertop toaster oven to this circuit. Last night, when the toaster over was on a lower setting (300*F) after about 1-2 mins, the circuit would trip.
TODAY, I pulled the combo AFCI/GFCI breaker and put in a standard SqD Homeline issue DP-4075 20A (non-GFCI) breaker to get a sense if the device(s) were pulling too much current. I then ran my toaster over up to broil (500*F) and ran for 10 minutes straight, no issues. Of course, code says kitchen outlets need to be GFCI at least.
I'm wondering if simply replacing my combo AFCI/GFCI breaker will resolve this issue. As one might expect, the replacement combo breaker is 10x the cost of the standard breaker, which I don't mind paying IF this resolves the issue.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!