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Hi, I've got a problem with my boiler I was hoping someone might know what it could be (apologies for me explaining in very simple terms), we've been away for 10 days and have just returned and when I switched it on it's not firing up and there's no flame visible through the hole. It's a Glow worm 40ff, 18 yr old conventional boiler. It had the pcb replaced about 6 months ago and the engineer said it should have a few more years left.

When I tried to boot it up for hot water or heating it won't automatically click and kick in and light the flame, it makes one loud click which it always used to do then it used to do another click or double click and boot up igniting the flame but isn't doing that now. It sounds like it's trying and the fan is running.

I've switched it off and on at the wall a few times and turned the knob on the boiler itself off and on, high and low but no joy.
I'm going to call my regular boiler engineer out tomorrow unless there's anything that can be suggested here, thanks.
 

ruston

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Obvious thing may be lack of gas , did you leave it on when you went away? Is it prepayment?
 
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  • #3
Obvious thing may be lack of gas , did you leave it on when you went away? Is it prepayment?
Thanks for the reply, gas supply hasn't been cut off, it's on DD and the cooker's working. I left it turned off but not off at the wall
 

ruston

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All I can suggest is to let it strike a few times to see if the pilot light lights up . If not it is time for professional help
 
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  • #7
Good.
It may take a few attempts , I suspect you have already tried though.
Yes I've tried, I'll try again in the morning then call my engineer, I'm reading elsewhere this is maybe a failed thermocouple
 

ruston

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Would usually light but not maintain the flame . The thermocouple needs heat to sustain the flame and keep gas valve open.
 
T

Toneyz

Sometimes when the system has not been used for a while valves stick closed this happens a lot with heating valves after the summer when the heating has not been used however you can hear it clicking to light up it could be something similar inside the boiler time to call a boiler engineer
 
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  • #10
Sometimes when the system has not been used for a while valves stick closed this happens a lot with heating valves after the summer when the heating has not been used however you can hear it clicking to light up it could be something similar inside the boiler time to call a boiler engineer
That makes sense, thanks
 

Corbs

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Does it not light then the boiler shuts off if that happens?
if the pump isnt running its a calling issue eg not calling for heat so prog or room stat if no hot water as well prog

but if the pump is running either overheat or internal boiler fault (somthings holding it off eg no pilot light on the older ones)

under the front cover any lights on op?
 
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  • #17
if the pump isnt running its a calling issue eg not calling for heat so prog or room stat if no hot water as well prog

but if the pump is running either overheat or internal boiler fault (somthings holding it off eg no pilot light on the older ones)

under the front cover any lights on op?
The boiler itself doesn't have any lights to light up, it's controlled by a drayton lifestyle lp522 programmer which is all lit up as normal
 

Corbs

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so ultimate version

the front panel should pull off (no screws) there a red button right of the dial press this in if its out
 
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  • #21
so ultimate version

the front panel should pull off (no screws) there a red button right of the dial press this in if its out
This is a photo, should I switch it on and press the red button to the right of the dial? DSC_0002.JPG
 

Corbs

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you should be able to press the red button in if its overheated / faulted out if not check is your pump running
 
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  • #25
The pump is in the airing cupboard next to the hot water cylinder, how do I know if the pump is running/working?
 
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  • #27
yes you should be able to feel it should be making a vibration / light on
Yes it was vibrating lightly and I could hear water running through it and it was slightly warm, I did heat the tank with the immersion heater earlier, not sure if that matters
 

Pete999

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what for ignition

call
fan runs
gas valve opens
pilot lights
main burner lights

missed a few steps for safety but you get the idea
What senses the gas when the pilot ignites to allow the main burner igniting, that was / is my concern.
 
you get flame recognition across the electrodes ac currant coming from the pcb when rectified across the electrodes go back to pcb dc currant
 

buzzlightyear

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what for ignition

call the boiler a t&&T
fans runs wild
a fart of gas the valve opens from behind
pilot lights a fag
main burner lights are on nobody at home

missed a few steps for safety but you get the idea
corrected that for him.lol.
 
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  • #45
Hi, just an update, I waited until my regular boiler repair man came back from holiday so he's just been this morning.

It was a blocked injector which he's cleaned up and got it working again, he's also serviced it as it was due one.

Great price too, barely more than he charges for a normal service
 

PEG

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Just on the subject of flame rectification...i got to talking about this process,with a heating engineer pal,and he said the boiler manufacturer he was accredited for,just had a simple set of tests,to identify a rectification issue - then they replace the assembly.
He wanted to know the method of it's operation,and if each step could be tested.
I did this with him,and on the strength of it,he has purchased an AVO 410 Megger multimeter,which is what i used,in the demo :)
 
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  • #47
Just bumping this one again.

The boiler broke down again, had my regular repair guy out, it was the thermostat that had gone, he came yesterday and fitted a new one.

All working fine though now it keeps firing up a lot more like every couple of minutes. I spoke to the repair guy who basically said it was nothing to do with the new thermostat, see how it goes, it's a 20 year old boiler etc, wasn't really bothered as it's working.

Any ideas why it would be doing this? thanks
 

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