Discuss Cooker circuit question in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

T

tirfor

Hi again,


Firstly I would like to thank all those who took part in my first post (yes the one with 18 pages!):smiley2:


Looks like it was one of those that can’t be answered simply. Love for a debate to start on that.


Anyway my next cry for help is sort of related as it may require a junction box.


I have been asked to add another electrical hob/oven outlet within a kitchen. There is currently a 10mm cable (think it was future proofed) which comes into the kitchen, then an iso switch then outlet plate. A new kitchen is being fitted where a built in oven will stay in place of the existing outlet plate but a separate hob is now being fitted on the other side of the kitchen. It is 2m away so separate iso switch will be fitted.


My idea is to place a junction box before the original iso switch then branch off to the new hob iso switch and continue to existing oven iso switch. Is there a better way or is this ok?
 
They are using gas appliances but want the 10mm put in place now in case they switch to electrical appliances in the future.

I haven't checked the appliances yet but am sure I will be putting in 13A fused spurs as well as they are gas.

I have seen an unit which seems to use the design of an earthing block so should get the cables in that way.
 
10mm into existing isolator. then a 6mm to each outlet. no need for a 2nd isolator. job's a good 'un. don't ask how to add a fan though.
 
10mm2 in a fused spur? No chance matey.

Hmmmm I see what you mean 10mm would be to big.
If they never fitted 10mm I would probably be ok.

There needs to be separate iso switches because the appliances are over 2m apart.

Ok, whats best then? If they were fitting electrical appliances they most likely would have been wired directly and not a problem but as they most likely will just have 13A plugs what should I use?
 
Or a clock point

The first house I bought had a clock point on the dining room wall.

I only found it when I was striping the wallpaper to redecorate.

Then I found out it was wired with some stuff that looked more suited to wire a door bell running diagonally down the wall onto the back of a double socket and covered with the thinnest skim of Polyfilla I've ever seen.

All it needed was for some wifey to stick a calendar in the "wrong" place with her drawing pin and there could have been a right bonny gan on.
 
The first house I bought had a clock point on the dining room wall.

I only found it when I was striping the wallpaper to redecorate.

Then I found out it was wired with some stuff that looked more suited to wire a door bell running diagonally down the wall onto the back of a double socket and covered with the thinnest skim of Polyfilla I've ever seen.

All it needed was for some wifey to stick a calendar in the "wrong" place with her drawing pin and there could have been a right bonny gan on.

where did you but your polyfilla from?
 
Hmmmm I see what you mean 10mm would be to big.
If they never fitted 10mm I would probably be ok.

There needs to be separate iso switches because the appliances are over 2m apart.

Ok, whats best then? If they were fitting electrical appliances they most likely would have been wired directly and not a problem but as they most likely will just have 13A plugs what should I use?

I'm assuming that the gas appliances are not supplied with plugs, if they are I was thinking a socket would be OK to fit at the ends of the cooker cables. If in the future the appliances are changed to electric the sockets can be removed.
 

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